UrS6 - Clutch Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Failing ???

[macspring]

In the last few days when reversing I noticed that the clutch is dragging / not fully dis-engaging as you go to select reverse, and today the same is happening with selecting first gear.

Couple of of bits of background.

First off, the clutch/brake fluid is most likely overdue to be changed, but has worked fine for the last two years. I feel the deterioration is a bit too sudden to be the fluid.

Secondly, there is a bit of power steering fluid blowing back onto the flexible pipe that leads to the clutch slave cylinder on the gearbox. I need an assistant to press the clutch to see if the hose is 'rotting' and bulging and therefore the fluid's pressure is not 'reaching' the clutch itself.

( I need to get a 'drag link' and alter it to open the power steering pump's crosshead 'bolt' and replace the seal ).

I'm thinking the problem must be one of the two clutch cylinders moving into the first stages failing.

What I am wondering about is, is there any way of determining which one is failing ?

I don't really want to buy one of each, or buy the 'wrong' one first ?

Any comments welcome.

I think I have the two part numbers, but if you have them handy, you might post them on here.

Thanks.

[macspring]

Driving it this evening it It feels like the clutch pedal needs to go further down to fully dis-engage the clutch, even though it is already being pressing fully down to the floor.

Also the start of the clutch pedal travel seems more floppy or limp than it used to be, if that helps anyone advise what might be the cause.

Thanks.

[macspring]

Any ideas ?

Thanks.

[macspring]

Changed out the slave cylinder. On examine the old one it seemed to be fine, very small crack in the white plastic bar. Tested ok with a Mitivac.

Put the new one it as I had the old one out.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/41316.phtml

As per the above link, the person is correct one needs the blue bit to hold in the vacuum in the cylinder. It makes it so much easier to fit the old or new slave cylinder.

Pressure bled the clutch system from the reservoir under the bonnet and the operation of the clutch is still rubbish, no improvement.

Currently the biting point of the clutch is immediate when the clutch pedal is released form being mashed into the carpet. Car can be driven but you have to math the eves to the gear. You have to turn the engine off to engage reverse to avoid any crunching of the gears.

The milage is 62k, and I would say is original, so I'm thinking the clutch plate is just too old ? The spring of the fingers is gone? Not sure if I'm right.

Want to avoid fitting anew clutch unless I have to. Coat of the new Sachs clutch and the effort to change it on the drive.

Thanks for any comments.

[mike74]

Does this car have the flexi rubber joint in the clutch master cylinder pushrod, similar to an ABY? Could be something like that?

[macspring]

I looked at the clutch master cylinder and from what I can see of it it looks as if it if fine.

The clevis pin bracket as it connects to the threaded bar of the clutch master cylinder seems straight, fine and intact.

It is very difficult to access it / see it, wth the big vent pipe covered in a cotton sleeve, and also the plastic vent pipe behind that. Can't work out how to remove either of them without taking the centre console out to see how there are both secured at the centre console end.

It's a lovely car, but it sure is packed tight / complicated under there.