Automatic Transmission troubleshooting

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  • JayCab
    S2Forum Enthusiast
    • Mar 2025
    • 191
    • Country: United Kingdom

    #1

    Automatic Transmission troubleshooting

    Hello Forum!

    I have the following problem with an 01N DFM 4 speed auto in my Cab;

    1. Primary complaint: Sometimes, especially on initial pull-away, it's slow to change into 2nd gear. When it does this, it always changes at exactly 3.5K RPM, and usually for one shift during a drive cycle, and usually the first shift. The delayed first 1-2 shift is never at any RPM other than 3.5K when it happens.

    2. Point 1 is in the presence of no other problems.
    More symptoms:
    --> Fluid is genuine, clean, with no metallic shrapnel or particles ever seen coming out of the pan or shimmering in the fluid on fluid change
    --> Filter is genuine , new, clean.
    --> Zero fault codes sustained over 1K+ miles for both ECM/TCM.
    --> Car (and original transmission) is at 88K miles (I owned it from 69K @ 23 years old)
    --> No transmission slipping (it pulls like a train at full torque in all gears with no flaring)

    .....

    Troubleshooting performed so far:

    A: Fluid / Filter change. All genuine parts/fluid, G 052 162 A2 fluid, which is rebranded Mobil LT 71141.
    --> Immediately following the fluid change, it drove like silk, better than ever, with imperceptible changes, feeling more or less like a 1 speed box.
    --> Gradually, the gear changes went back to perceptible (what I call "normal", you can feel it shift, but it's smoother than any manual)
    --> The occasional slow 1-2 shift at 3.5K still happened occasionally

    B: Replacement Valve Body, sourced from USA, overhauled with Sonnax parts (Central Valve Bodies)
    --> This made matters worse, and was jolly expensive
    --> The vehicle still had the occasional 1-2 delayed shift, but also gained a 3-4 flare shift where it would rev high and thud into 4th. Undrivable unless shifter is left in 3rd, ignoring 4th gear.

    C: Light overhaul of original Valve Body (UK Firm, Valve Bodies UK)
    --> Replaced the TCC lockup valve / sleeve / spring with no re-boring of VB
    --> Machine dyno tested original VB, sent it back to me, in-spec by their judgement
    --> Car shifted like silk once again after re-installing + new fluid (again)
    --> 1-2 late shift initially improved seemingly, but has since resumed occasionally happening (the same 3.5K RPM late change)

    D: Testing of electronic inputs to TCM according to Audi factory manual (Erwin)
    --> All tested in spec except for the shift lock solenoid being a bit high on resistance (the solenoid that locks the lever in P/N, not a shift solenoid)
    --> All shift solenoids are at correct and same resistance tested at both the solenoids themselves and at the TCM harness fully installed in the vehicle
    --> Speed sensors both test in spec by resistance (but I'm aware that says nothing about magnetic pulse strength)
    --> Nonetheless, no fault codes

    E: TCM electronics -
    --> I have replaced the main MOSFET power control transistor on the TCM mainboard, being the main power control component that can wear with heat/age.
    --> This seems to have changed the shift behaviour for the better, but not fixed the occasional 1-2 slow 3.5K RPM shift.
    --> Now the vehicle more readily downshifts when the throttle is pressed. I spend more time driving at <20% pedal for the same performance, and it more rarely needs manual intervention going up steep hills.

    F: Cruise Control / Air Conditioning
    --> Both these systems input to the TCM. Both work.
    --> TCM binary output seems to indicate it is not aware of when the Cruise control is switched on. Nonetheless, C/C seems to work, cut out on brake / resume when told to/etc.
    --> The A/C seems to cut out when the car is put in reverse. This seems odd. I know newer cars close the recirc flap on reverse, but I don't think this one is supposed to do this.
    --> A/C correctly cuts out on kick-down. That's normal

    ......

    For all that, I have yet to fix the occasional 1-2 slow shift at 3.5k RPM.

    Questions for the forum:
    1. Does this sound more electrical or mechanical to you? With the always exactly 3.5K RPM, my money is on electrical / logical, but I'm not sure where yet and more than happy to hear other suggestions...
    2. Can anyone tell me where the grounding point is for the transmission harness? is it multi-point grounded? I've only found the ground points by the A pillars next to the doors behind the trim so far. I know the control logic depends on accurate consistent resistance on the harness, and it's a 26 year old harness now.
    3. What parts would anyone change next?
    Speed sensors, Solenoid ribbon, Replace TCM itself, Cruise module, A/C module, other electrical ideas?
    4. Is the fact of "no codes" on a car of this era necessarily indicative of perfectly good electrics?
    5. Would anyone still vote this being a valve body issue given the above (which was my initial thought)?

    ......

    I'm hoping there is another 80K miles in the transmission before a rebuild...


    Thanking anyone for reading this far!!


    Kind Regards,

    Jay.
  • RedV6
    S2Forum Fanatic
    • Jun 2026
    • 63
    • Country: Scotland

    #2
    I only have experience on autos with our Range Rover Classic, Mercedes W124 which also has vacuum inputs, W447 Van.
    One common theme in your post, does seem to be the fluid! Which seems to bring back (mostly) correct operation when its changed.
    Just a point (perhaps). The transmission sump only holds a small proportion of the total oil capacity. As the Torque Converter, Pipes and Cooler are all full, probably containing a greater percentage of oil. Just a thought that old/new/mixed/contaminated fluid might be affecting things!?

    Comment

    • JayCab
      S2Forum Enthusiast
      • Mar 2025
      • 191
      • Country: United Kingdom

      #3
      Hi RedV6,

      Thanks for your feedback! I had thought along similar lines and I guess it could still be fluid related...

      However, it has now had 4 transmission fluid changes and two filter changes, with about 4 - 5L going back in each time to level, depending on whether the valve body also came off. More fluid comes out when you pull the VB out.
      --> I am NOT sure if a 5L change means the torque converter must also have drained?
      --> Audi reference: "Fresh Fill: 5.5L", "Change: Approx 3.5L", specified for "Planetary Gearbox", whether or not that includes the TC and/or cooler I don't know.
      --> I am NOT sure how fast the fluid in the TC circulates through the rest of the system. If it's super-slow I guess that fluid could be contaminated and slowly releasing into the rest of the system...? Does anyone know this?

      I had assumed repeated fluid changes would have cleaned up the TC fluid by dilution / dispersion into the rest. I could be way off..?

      For the fluid in the cooler (which is integral to the main RAD), the lower cooler lines have to be separated to take the AT sump off, which I've left glugging away into the oil dolly until stopped, so I thjnk I'm catching all that.
      --> The cooler itself is new (Nissens main rad)

      I can perform another fluid change...some time...but would like to explore other troubleshooting ideas as well...

      Comment

      • JayCab
        S2Forum Enthusiast
        • Mar 2025
        • 191
        • Country: United Kingdom

        #4
        Attaching a photo..

        That’s inside the transmission with the valve body removed, with no cleaning of any kind having taken place…

        …which I found surprising, I didn’t know they ran this clean…

        The magnet on the bottom of the sump had a thin layer of black paste stuck to it in a magnetic pattern which cleaned off pretty easily with a rag. On the first removal there was more of this, but not at levels that would worry me and no metallic shimmering / bits / other objects in there. Just a typical dirty-side sump as far as I can tell...
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.
        Last edited by JayCab; 27 September 2026, 12:14.

        Comment

        • JayCab
          S2Forum Enthusiast
          • Mar 2025
          • 191
          • Country: United Kingdom

          #5
          Originally posted by RedV6
          I only have experience on autos with our Range Rover Classic, Mercedes W124 which also has vacuum inputs, W447 Van.
          One common theme in your post, does seem to be the fluid! Which seems to bring back (mostly) correct operation when its changed.
          Just a point (perhaps). The transmission sump only holds a small proportion of the total oil capacity. As the Torque Converter, Pipes and Cooler are all full, probably containing a greater percentage of oil. Just a thought that old/new/mixed/contaminated fluid might be affecting things!?
          Vacuum inputs to the AT on your W124 must be a whole other level of "interesting"

          Comment

          • RedV6
            S2Forum Fanatic
            • Jun 2026
            • 63
            • Country: Scotland

            #6
            Yea they can be. There are two. The first is to a vacuum modulator, which is adjustable, this softens the shifts a full throttle. The second is more simple and actuates a valve that lowers the line pressure to put the gearbox into economy mode by making it shift up at lower throttle and road speeds. All this in conjunction with the kick down (control pressure) cable and kickdown solenoid, which is operated by a switch under the throttle pedal.
            The RR is more sensible. 100% mechanical, a kick down cable and no adjustments otherwise. AND it is actually smoother than the W124 and the W447 van.
            I dread to think how complex the van is! Hopefully it won't break, its on about 120,000 now.
            RR is about 120,000k and the W124 is at 240,000k

            Comment

            • JayCab
              S2Forum Enthusiast
              • Mar 2025
              • 191
              • Country: United Kingdom

              #7
              Troubleshooting update:

              I replaced both G38 and G68 sensors with new genuine parts:
              095 927 321 C

              …reset TCM.

              ​​​​​…and much the same behaviour.

              Shame. I thought I might have been onto a winner as the old sensors were only just in spec by resistance.

              ​​​​​…onto the next. I’m not buying any more parts or opening it up again until I’ve got measurements of the line pressure…

              Comment

              • Tractor Dave
                S2Forum Zealot
                • Dec 2017
                • 5983
                • Country: Wales

                #8
                I would just hunt out another good box from a breakers. I had a v6 auto cab here a couple of years ago and breakers gave me £100 for the shell with engine and box still in. Lots being broken sadly.
                Nothelle S2 Avant
                Black Ur project
                Silver Rs2 Project gone
                Ocianic Ur project gone
                S2 Coupe project gone
                Urs6 plus project gone

                Comment

                • JayCab
                  S2Forum Enthusiast
                  • Mar 2025
                  • 191
                  • Country: United Kingdom

                  #9
                  …Dave votes for the nuclear option

                  Comment

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