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Ever since I had my B6 it was never very smooth or consistent off the line and into 2nd gear - just with casual driving I mean - not launching or whatever. I had always put this down to a drive by wire side effect as I have driven with a mechanical throttle cable all my life.
I knew there was an ECU fault code (not lighting the dash) pointing to something called F36 in relation to the clutch but I never got round to exploring it until this week - I have long since got used to the car's character pulling away and adapted to it basically though sometimes it would still embarrass me with a jerky transition.
Anyway, while looking at ECU diagrams this week - for something entirely unrelated I noticed this clutch pedal switch F36 connected to the ECU - so is the brake pedal (with two switches actually but thats cause for another thread).
F36 is a 2-pin normally closed switch - i.e closed with pedal up (clutch engaged).
F36 opens when the clutch pedal is depressed.
The way to test it with VCDS is on the ECU - measuring blocks - view Group 66...
With the clutch pedal UP you should see 000010xx
With the clutch pedal DOWN you should see 000011xx
The xx above refers to the position of the twin brake pedal switch - that is 00 with the brake pedal UP or 11 when the brake pedal is pressed.
On my car, I was always seeing 000010xx whether the clutch pedal was up or down - this is what was giving me the fault code.
15 quid on eBay later for a 7H0 927 189 and I have a new clutch switch a day later.
Dead easy repair - pop off the fuse box cover to expose one of the 3 x M8 bolts holding the footwell cover in place. Remove that and the other two screws - one at each end of the trim panel... You can leave the panel on the floor or unplug the OBD plug and footwell lamp to get it all out of your way.
With a little contortion underneath the steering wheel you can easily see the clutch pedal switch and a twist action removes it - then unplug the 2-pin connector.
Refitting is the reverse of removal with a new switch but you have to check that the lugs are lined up correctly before you twist the new one into place - the mechanism auto adjusts until you have it locked into place. The new switch came in the correct orientation to fit - but in this position be advised that when you test it - the switch appears to be permanently closed... it only works when the lock pins are engaged during fitment.
Now with the Group 66 test I can see that the new F36 switch is working - I get the correct 000011xx when the pedal is pressed down - roughly about 1/3 travel.
I have cleared the ECU fault and hope that a test drive tomorrow will see an improvement.
I knew there was an ECU fault code (not lighting the dash) pointing to something called F36 in relation to the clutch but I never got round to exploring it until this week - I have long since got used to the car's character pulling away and adapted to it basically though sometimes it would still embarrass me with a jerky transition.
Anyway, while looking at ECU diagrams this week - for something entirely unrelated I noticed this clutch pedal switch F36 connected to the ECU - so is the brake pedal (with two switches actually but thats cause for another thread).
F36 is a 2-pin normally closed switch - i.e closed with pedal up (clutch engaged).
F36 opens when the clutch pedal is depressed.
The way to test it with VCDS is on the ECU - measuring blocks - view Group 66...
With the clutch pedal UP you should see 000010xx
With the clutch pedal DOWN you should see 000011xx
The xx above refers to the position of the twin brake pedal switch - that is 00 with the brake pedal UP or 11 when the brake pedal is pressed.
On my car, I was always seeing 000010xx whether the clutch pedal was up or down - this is what was giving me the fault code.
15 quid on eBay later for a 7H0 927 189 and I have a new clutch switch a day later.
Dead easy repair - pop off the fuse box cover to expose one of the 3 x M8 bolts holding the footwell cover in place. Remove that and the other two screws - one at each end of the trim panel... You can leave the panel on the floor or unplug the OBD plug and footwell lamp to get it all out of your way.
With a little contortion underneath the steering wheel you can easily see the clutch pedal switch and a twist action removes it - then unplug the 2-pin connector.
Refitting is the reverse of removal with a new switch but you have to check that the lugs are lined up correctly before you twist the new one into place - the mechanism auto adjusts until you have it locked into place. The new switch came in the correct orientation to fit - but in this position be advised that when you test it - the switch appears to be permanently closed... it only works when the lock pins are engaged during fitment.
Now with the Group 66 test I can see that the new F36 switch is working - I get the correct 000011xx when the pedal is pressed down - roughly about 1/3 travel.
I have cleared the ECU fault and hope that a test drive tomorrow will see an improvement.
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