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Repainting Options, 1994 S2 ABY ?.

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  • Repainting Options, 1994 S2 ABY ?.

    Getting to the stage where the mechanics are more or less ok and thinking about a respray. 1994 car, with the faded red syndrome and has been machine polished a couple of times, but it's through the laquer in places. A relative worked in a body shop and organsied a respray of a couple of cars in the past, but that option not avaiable now. Will stick with the original red, but not sure if glass out job is needed or what ?. Door shuts are probably ok as are the rest of the internals. Under bonnet is scruffy, but don't want an engine out job. Want a workmanlike quality job with no orange peel, early 2018, so what are the options and how much will it cost ?...
    Last edited by Tridac; 7th September 2017, 13:36.

  • #2
    Honestly, unless you pay for wet flat and polish, you won't get it without orange peel.

    my brand new A3 is shockingly bad for orange peel..

    spray jobs are notorious in the "you get what you pay for" stakes... good luck
    Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
    S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
    '03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...

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    • #3
      I would say get the glass out. I am currently putting my car back together after a re spray and deliberated over how far to go. I ended up going the whole hog and taking the glass out. I am VERY glad i did as some nastiness was found lurking. This rust was around every rivet hole for the aluminium extrusion that holds the door seal in place. I had no idea as it wasn't visible at all on the roof line but it wasn't far off. Imagine how annoyed you would be having a respray masking off parts and then rust creeps out from under that part into your new paint.

      Glass out on sides and front but no need for rear as tailgate is plastic and the way it is is, the glass can be masked off successfully.

      Doing the dismantling will save you a lot of money and while the car is away being painted, you have time to fix or replace all the bits that will break when you dismantle.
      Last edited by steve briance; 9th September 2017, 20:42.

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      • #4
        wow, thats a bit of a discovery but as you say better now that it creeping later. Am trying to work out what to do with mine but this is helping that process no end. thanks for the pictures. was it driving significant extra effort/cost to rectify out of interest?
        sigpic

        1992 3b S2 Coupe

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        • #5
          I spoke to lots of people, got quotes and made my decision and happily - it has turned out really well and they clearly took pride in their work and went for result rather than turnaround. I think the subject of picking a bodyshop to do any work for you is always one that involves a large amount of luck and you hear so many horror stories. When i went to get the quote from the bloke who ended up doing it, he gave me a price on what could be seen and then when i delivered the car stripped down and with the rust in that picture and various other places as well as really really bad paint from a previous job, he had add £400 for extra prep work which i think was fair enough as it included going back to bare metal on the roof, bonnet and drivers side rear quarter.

          I'd say strip as much off the car as possible and based on what i was being quoted; you could save up to £500 and on rebuilding, you get the opportunity and have the time to sort out stuff that has gone wrong - i can't imagine any body shop would have a stock of S2 parts lying around to help!

          My car had a really shoddy job at some point int he past and whoever did it cut corners and masked around washer jets, side indicators and the like. Needless to say that the lacquer had peeled around these bits. I can tell you it was very satisfying indeed clicking the washer jets back in place KNOWING it was back to how it should be. Doing door shuts is a no brainer as well while you at it otherwise you have a masked line in the paint and it will be a different colour no matter how good you think the existing paint is, I couldn't believe how faded my paint had become until i got it back.

          In short - do it all and be proud to drive it around.



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          • #6
            Thanks a lot for the detailed replies, a great help. It will be next year, after I finish getting all the oily bits right, the last step. So what sort of price did you pay, for glass out, door shuts and assuming as much as possible removed here beforehand ?. Just a ball park figure is fine...

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            • #7
              I think you should go round and ask for some quotes first because at end of day different spray shops ask different prices my first spray job was 3k with me helping which was 4 years ago I'm lucky because my friend works in spray shop expect double that for the job what your asking and you will have a very nice paint job all best michael

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              • #8
                I paid £1800 and I think that was unusually low / lucky. The job certainly wasn't low quality though - I'm over the moon. To be fair I delivered a bare shell and all he had to do was take the door and boot catches off so I wasn't paying for his spanner time. He did a two stage polish wet flat then MOP. Loughborough in case you are wondering...

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                • #9
                  mac2226 is right - get several quotes and perhaps worth more is; get several recommendations or not as the case may be. I chose my spray shop on the basis that my MOT guy took his car there and spoke very highly. 4 weeks later - pride well and truly restored I need to wait a couple of months before I get some decent wax or sealant on it as the paint is ambient cure rather than baked and apparently it can take up to 3 months to fully harden. The last thing you want is to trap evaporating solvents under a layer of impermeable wax...

                  good luck!

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