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Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black - RS2/GT30/Wagner/Brembo - PROJECT

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  • Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black - RS2/GT30/Wagner/Brembo - PROJECT

    Audi S2 Avant 1993 L Volcano Black -

    GT30, RS2 running gear, Wagner Manifolds, 997 brakes, +++ much more

    The time has come to sell my S2 which I have owned for nearly 10 years (since 13/11/2010). It currently states 2 former keepers on the logbook. The gentleman who owned it before me bought in on 26/11/1996 (so he owned it for just over 14 years). Prior to this, it was bought new by an asset management company in 16/09/1993 which was the date it was first registered.

    Since I've owned the car, I've spent somewhere between £19'000-£21'000 on parts (not including the price of the car), and covered just over 2k miles in total (yes, really). And all receipts/invoices are included. It has only been on the road for a few months at a time, and spent the rest of the time in storage. As a maintenance engineer and CNC machinist, my philosophy was always; "if it aint broke, take it apart anyway, replace it for new or improve it as best as possible". It was previously running perfectly at around 500-520hp, and my plan more recently was to rebuilt it and go for ~650hp, but my circumstances have changed and I can no longer afford to keep or finish it.

    It's currently indicating 166k miles, but the only thing which reflects this really is the shell. It has full service history up to 153k miles, all the original Audi handbook and manuals, both original keys and (I think) all the old MOTs are there.

    I will list the main bits below, but I'll probably miss stuff out. The main thing to keep in mind is that almost everything is here to rebuild the engine to a 500hp spec, apart from a bare cylinder head casting (I'll explain this later) a few minor gaskets/seals and some fluids. The rolling shell is 100% perfect and ready to go, so it's only the engine to think about.

    Good points
    • It's fully HPI clear, and to my knowledge (and according to the previous owner) the bodyshell is completely original and has never had any repairs, welding or paintwork whatsoever. The only paintwork which has been carried out to my knowledge was a respray to both bumpers not long before I bought the car.
    • It remains completely rust free and needs no welding. As you would expect due to its originality, it has a few cosmetic marks around it (mostly picked up while in storage), but a lot of this will flat or mop out. There are only a couple of very small dents.
    • Both front ellipsoids are in excellent condition. One had a brand new genuine Audi glass fitted as the old one was chipped.
    • All the lower door mouldings were replaced with brand new genuine Audi items (apart from the small ones on the front wings and the rear quarters which I couldn't get).
    Bad points
    • The worst bits of bodywork to speak of which aren't correctable without paint are a deeper scratch on the NSR quarter approx. 30cm length, and (unfortunately) the bonnet needs respraying. This was my fault after I tried to address a scratch on it and flatted through the lacquer… I've not gone near any other panel of the car though. It's also lost some paint on the rear inner edges of the front wings from stone chipping.
    • The rear bumper is split along its edge where it rolled back too far in the garage once - ideally would need a fibreglass repair from the inside and a respray, but it's perfectly presentable as it is and not particularly noticable.
    • The front bumper has been cut underneath to clear the old intercooler set-up which was mounted in a low position (although the current set-up now wouldn't have fouled it). When I bought the car, the bumper was already split underneath and missing a large triangular piece, so it wasn't complete sacrilege to cut it out square at the time!

    • All original and standard throughout. Factory black leather with carbon trim. 3 spoke steering wheel is immaculate
    • I had the outer bolsters on the driver's seat retrimmed due to being worn through previously. The repair is pretty good but the leather isn't a perfect match.
    • When I first got the car, I removed the whole air conditioning system. Since you can't get them re-gassed anymore, I felt it was pointless keeping it. In doing so, I meticulously removed the dashboard to convert the heater/blower system to the non-AC set-up and fit the larger glovebox (all this work is photographed and documented). I sourced a new heater box from a non-AC car which I rebuilt (stripped, cleaned, recovered the flaps with foam and fitted a new water matrix). Everything was put back perfectly without leaving a single mark or a missing screw (I know what it's like to have a car where the interior has been ripped out in a hurry and refitted badly - this is not the case here).
    • The milometer didn't work the last time I drove the car, so it's about 50 miles short of the true mileage. I haven't looked into it, but I do have another speedo head in pieces which might be useful for parts.
    • The gauge has peeled on the rev counter, but I have a whole new set of RS2 white dials (these were about £200 alone)

    The engine is the sore subject. Everything is there to rebuild it to a reliable 500+hp, except there is no cylinder head casting (I sent it off to a company for machining and never managed to get it back). It was running perfectly at 500+hp before, but last year I decided to go for more so pulled the engine out and stripped it.
    • ABY engine block (stock bore diameter) - all original caps present with stock bolts. The bores will need a fresh hone/deglaze, but should still be within tolerance to rebuild with stock pistons - (and there is a selection of 10 to choose from).
    • Aronmatic H-section forged rods (2k miles use, still in perfect condition)
    • Main bear shells (KS), (have done 2k miles but are again perfectly good to reuse)
    • ARP head studs and sport quattro washers (ARP studs are fully reusable unlike normal head bolts)
    • 2 sets of stock ABY pistons (can choose the best 5 to use if you want)
    • ABY crank (all original journals sizes which are still within factory spec)
    • ABY oil pump (I would personally replace this for a new one, if you can find one)
    • Stock ABY cams
    • INA lightweight hydraulic lifters (2k miles old)
    • The valve train, cam sprocket and hall sensor from the old cylinder head is all there (it's literally just the bare casting which is missing)
    • All nuts and bolts, brackets, mounts, sensors etc required to refit the engine are there. All the decorative and non-load bearing bolts have been replaced for stainless steel too.

    • KS Racing sputter coated big end shells - I dry fitted these to check clearances which are all spot on. The old shells had some signs of wear after 2k miles so they were binned.
    • Victor Reinz multi-layer compression reducing steel head gasket (8.57:1 spec)
    • Victor Reinz sump gasket kit
    • FAI sump gasket (an extra one is required for fitting the windage tray)
    • Ajusa exhaust manifold gasket
    • Febi cam chain
    • Camshaft oil seal
    • X20 Febi valve guides
    • X20 Valve stem oil seals
    • X4 new oil filters (I liked to keep plenty spare and replace them frequently)

    • Garrett GT30R Turbo (freshly rebuilt with uprated bronze bearing cages) - still in the wrapping from the turbo shop with the balance sheet
    • Wagner front facing inlet manifold
    • Wagner exhaust manifold (flange has been offset machined to accept the GT30 so you don't need to use a spacer)
    • Wagner front mount intercooler and custom made stainless crossmember
    • Full 3 inch turbo back custom made stainless steel exhaust system and downpipe
    • TFSI coils on custom made loom (approx 200 miles use)
    • Stock Bosch Motronic ECU - socketed with 4 bar map sensor. Mapped by PRJ with launch control (last tuned in 2014).
    • Bosch EV14 injectors
    • RS4 MAF (currently mapped with this set-up)
    • K&N cone filter
    • All necessary boost hoses included which are all high quality 5-ply (ASH or Samco)
    • All turbo feed/drain pipes for the GT30 set-up are included, which are high quality braided stainless
    • Custom made oil breather/catch can

    • ABY sump (vapour blasted)
    • 7A cam cover, machined to accept pencil coils and bespoke CNC Audi embossed breather cap
    • Brand new AKmotorsport solid billet engine mounts (I found the original ones had torn in half when taking the engine out)
    • Roose motorsport water hoses in black (complete kit)
    • Stock rad with plastic headers - in good condition and never once overheated with this set up
    • Mocal 13 row oil cooler on custom made bracket (one of the threads is damaged where the union corroded on- this is my fault as I should have fitted it with grease. It may be reusable, otherwise a new one is around £70)
    • Brand new push fit fir-tree oil cooler unions and 3/8 flexi pipe - bought as the old fittings were dull and corroded (the old pipes which were previously fitted are there too)
    • Aux rad in good condition (was a spare that I didn't use)
    • X3 power steering pumps (I think one is mint but 2 need rebuilding)
    • The cambelt tensioner roller and water pump are ~2k miles old
    • The short engine loom has been attended to with new soldered plugs and loom tape
    • Stock wastegate and spring - overhauled and aluminium parts have been aqua blasted
    • Water rail has been sleeved with billet aluminium where they corrode at the main spigot
    • Engine mounts, water rail and alternator mount aqua blasted

    • RS2 hubs front and back - sand blasted and repainted with POR15 2k urethane (aka Hardnose) paint.
    • New Genuine Audi wheel bearings all round
    • CGR 6 speed gearbox (in great condition) on 034 track density mounts - linkage has been aqua blasted and rebuilt)
    • Sach organic race clutch (very nice to use and never slipped at over 500hp) - still in very good condition.
    • Stock 7A flywheel with forged 12.9 high tensile bolts
    • All CV joints are original but have been cleaned and rebuilt with new grease
    • Original driveshafts - have been blasted and repainted with stone chip (I ran out of POR 15 at the time)
    • New Genuine Audi clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and flexable linkage pipe

    • Bilstein rear dampers and Koni adjustable fronts
    • H&R (30mm?) lowering springs front and back
    • Front and rear subframes, hubs, wishbone arms, struts and ARBs have been blasted and painted with POR15 2k urethane (aka Hardnose) paint.
    • Every bush is polyurethane (Powerflex or Superflex) APART FROM the rear subframe and both ARBs (I couldn't get these at the time)
    • 034 solid front top mounts
    • New metal ARB drop links
    • Cast front wishbone arms
    • Steering rack was replaced with one I sourced from a 40k mile car
    • Track rod ends and bottom ball joints replaced
    • Diff and gearbox mounts have been aqua blasted

    (the rear end was rebuilt most recently and the car was only road tested for approx. 50 miles after completing the work)
    • Porsche 997 mono-blocks front and back (on custom made CNC brackets). These were removed from a 2 year old write off 997 when I got them, they are almost like new
    • Porsche 997 330mm drilled and vented front discs (2k miles old) - can't remember the brand of the discs, may have been Brembo
    • Brand new OE spec RS2 rear discs
    • Brand new Genuine Audi RS2 handbrake cables (I believe these were the last pair when I bought them).
    • The entire handbrake assembly has been rebuilt with new shoes and various bits from design 911. It's currently set up perfectly, so unlike practically all RS2s it actually works!
    • Goodridge stainless hoses all round (only road tested since new)
    • Genuine Porsche Cup1 RS2 alloy wheels - freshly refurbished (not even been driven since refurbed)
    • Toyo proxes T1R tyres (fronts are brand new, rears are like new)
    • Alloy wheel nuts (from design 911) - currently no locking wheel nuts

    Please don't be put off by the work that’s required, because despite what it might look like, the car only needs a little bit of money spending on it to get it back to its former glory (providing you can do the work yourself of course, otherwise you will need to factor in labour costs). You will also have the peace of mind that the engine has been rebuilt to whatever standard or specification you choose, and there is no risk of any nasty surprises that you might have with a running car.

    To say the car drove unbelievably well before is an understatement. It's the tightest one you're ever likely to drive, and the performance was phenomenal. It pulled a 2.7 second 60-92mph time when last tuned, and it would stop just as well too. All put back together, it will likely be one of the nicest and most unique Avants left in the country.

    I'm prepared to ship or export anywhere in the world at the buyer expense, so please ask for a quote if you’re interested. Forum rules state I must include a price, but I really have no idea what it's worth. I'll say 15k as my best guess. The fact is, its got to go, so I will accept its current market value and all sensible offers will be considered. I am NOT prepared to break it due to time, but if you want to buy and break it yourself, that's up to you. Car is located in Ferndown, Dorset

    Thanks for looking
    Last edited by twenty valve; 18th July 2020, 12:15.

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        • #5
          Please ask for any more pictures or details and I will post them as a reply


          • #6
            PM sent , Thanks


            • #7
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