What follows is a description of removing the PAS pump from an ABY.
Done from memory of the job on Minnsy's car last night - photos to follow one day...
Notion of left and right on this is standing at front of car, looking into the engine bay. ie main radiator is on the right !
This job took me less than an hour.
Firstly defuse the bomb i.e pump the brake pedal until ALL servo assistance has been released. This results in a rock hard pedal. If you don't do this then you risk spraying hydraulic fluid all over you and your car when the high pressure lines are slackened !
Drain PAS fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster. This reduces spillage. Don't re-use PAS fluid. Its cheap from dealerships at 8 quid a litre - its called G002000. There is no substitute worth talking about - G2000 is a special green coloured mineral oil. Anything else will damage your PAS pump, bomb and potentially the steering rack.
Its £300 quid for a new pump, almost £200 for a new bomb and lord knows what for a rack - you do the math !
1. Remove the top plastic cover from main radiator with x-head screwdriver.
2. Disconnect the hydraulic oil cooler where it joins the rubber hose to the PAS pump.
3. Remove the bracket from left side of main radiator - the metal bar that goes to the 'slam panel' or 'lock carrier'. Original fitting on the slam panel uses a Torx bolt so check you have that tool first.
4. Move the plastic air guide between the main radiator and engine to the right to improve access to PAS pump.
5. Disconnect all hydraulic fittings to PAS pump - taking to care to retrieve two O-rings from each banjo. Banjo bolt sizes are 14mm, 22mm and 24mm. Rubber O-rings on 14mm banjo, metal ones on other two. The 24mm one requires some care with the air guide so that a socket can just be used to loosen it. A large ring spanner would suffice though I couldn't find mine !
6. Loosen V-belt tensioner clamp on right side of PAS pump. Requires 13mm spanner.
7. Release tension on V-belt and remove clamping bracket from right side of PAS pump.
8. Tease V-belt off the PAS pump pulley. Nearly there now...
9. In order to give clearance for the pivot bolt (on left side of PAS pump) the slam panel (aka lock carrier) needs to be moved forwards about a centimetre-ish, to allow the pivot bolt to clear the auxiliary radiator.
Simply remove all four bolts that secure the slam panel to each corner panel. Then (noting the height) remove the two bonnet height adjustment studs from the slam panel. There will also be one or two x-head screws securing shrouds to the slam panel which need removed to allow sufficient movement.
10. Loosen and remove the pivot bolt (2 x 13mm spanners required). Remove the PAS pump !
Voila - express shock and horror at the price of a new one when you see how small the old sucker is !
In the immortal words of Mr. Haynes - refitting is the reversal of removal - just be sure to use new O-rings and fill up with fresh clean G2000 hydraulic fluid. Bleeding the system is simply a matter of slowing turning the wheels from lock to lock to force air out of the system. Top off the level in the reservoir when you are satisfied there are no leaks...
ENJOY - Paul
Done from memory of the job on Minnsy's car last night - photos to follow one day...
Notion of left and right on this is standing at front of car, looking into the engine bay. ie main radiator is on the right !
This job took me less than an hour.
Firstly defuse the bomb i.e pump the brake pedal until ALL servo assistance has been released. This results in a rock hard pedal. If you don't do this then you risk spraying hydraulic fluid all over you and your car when the high pressure lines are slackened !
Drain PAS fluid from the reservoir with a syringe or turkey baster. This reduces spillage. Don't re-use PAS fluid. Its cheap from dealerships at 8 quid a litre - its called G002000. There is no substitute worth talking about - G2000 is a special green coloured mineral oil. Anything else will damage your PAS pump, bomb and potentially the steering rack.
Its £300 quid for a new pump, almost £200 for a new bomb and lord knows what for a rack - you do the math !
1. Remove the top plastic cover from main radiator with x-head screwdriver.
2. Disconnect the hydraulic oil cooler where it joins the rubber hose to the PAS pump.
3. Remove the bracket from left side of main radiator - the metal bar that goes to the 'slam panel' or 'lock carrier'. Original fitting on the slam panel uses a Torx bolt so check you have that tool first.
4. Move the plastic air guide between the main radiator and engine to the right to improve access to PAS pump.
5. Disconnect all hydraulic fittings to PAS pump - taking to care to retrieve two O-rings from each banjo. Banjo bolt sizes are 14mm, 22mm and 24mm. Rubber O-rings on 14mm banjo, metal ones on other two. The 24mm one requires some care with the air guide so that a socket can just be used to loosen it. A large ring spanner would suffice though I couldn't find mine !
6. Loosen V-belt tensioner clamp on right side of PAS pump. Requires 13mm spanner.
7. Release tension on V-belt and remove clamping bracket from right side of PAS pump.
8. Tease V-belt off the PAS pump pulley. Nearly there now...
9. In order to give clearance for the pivot bolt (on left side of PAS pump) the slam panel (aka lock carrier) needs to be moved forwards about a centimetre-ish, to allow the pivot bolt to clear the auxiliary radiator.
Simply remove all four bolts that secure the slam panel to each corner panel. Then (noting the height) remove the two bonnet height adjustment studs from the slam panel. There will also be one or two x-head screws securing shrouds to the slam panel which need removed to allow sufficient movement.
10. Loosen and remove the pivot bolt (2 x 13mm spanners required). Remove the PAS pump !
Voila - express shock and horror at the price of a new one when you see how small the old sucker is !
In the immortal words of Mr. Haynes - refitting is the reversal of removal - just be sure to use new O-rings and fill up with fresh clean G2000 hydraulic fluid. Bleeding the system is simply a matter of slowing turning the wheels from lock to lock to force air out of the system. Top off the level in the reservoir when you are satisfied there are no leaks...
ENJOY - Paul
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