S2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

[Tridac]

Don't know if this will be of any help, just replaced the clutch slave cylinder for the first time, spent most of the day on it. Not the easiest task on this car. Went in from the top and undid the gear linkage at the top so it could be pulled back for access. Couldn’t get the new cylinder in place uncompressed, so drilled a 2mm hole in the actuator pin, fed some 18swg copper wire through to make a small soldered loop per side, then fed 22swg copper through the loops and bound and soldered at the bleed end to hold the cylinder compressed. The loops on the pin were so the wire could be cut and withdrawn in one piece once the new cylinder was in place. The 18swg loops stay where they are and have no effect. Also cut two 180 narrow saw cuts in the periphery to guide the wires. A bit of a round about way to do it, but tried several different ideas and the wire trick finally got the job done. If I did this again, would take off the linkage as well, as it would make the task much easier.

Used a new M8 Allen bolt and spring washer on putting back together, as it’s easier to get an Allen bit in there, rather than a socket. There is an oddity, in that the slave cylinder bolt looks like it goes in at few degrees slight angle, with bolt head a bit lower than the threaded part. Thought that the bolt was going in cross threaded, unscrewed a couple of times etc, but no, screws in loose all the way, so that tapped hole has either been cross threaded at some stage, or it was drilled and tapped at an angle from the factory. Slave cylinder looks straight, so no idea why this is. Any ideas ?…

[veneto rs2]

To hold the rod pressed just use a cap to close the fluid nipple
loose the nipple push the rod alla way in close the nipple
rod stays in due to vacuum.

[Tridac]

Thanks, I did try that, but that didn't hold and even tried filling with brake fluid, but that didn't work either. For reference, the replacement cylinder was made by LPR in italy, part no: 8103 and just says "Audi 80-90-100-200 carbrio coupe", on the box. Also Ad.24-2522-0901.3-8103. From Ebay at about 38 ukp. Looks identical to the original and fits perfectly.

The clutch pedal got worse over a few weeks and the fluid reservoir was empty, no visible leaks form the brakes or master cylinder, so assumed that it was the slave. However, when I took the old one out, no sign of leaks. All that hassle for nothing, but it had never been changed since I bought the car in 1998. Also, there was a plastic nipple on the rod on the original which had split, not present on the replacement, so turned up an identical item in brass on the lathe, as it does distribute the pressure across the face. Anyway, long saga etc, since then, have noticed a weep where the hose joins the bundy to the slave, so that was probably the issue all along. Will be replacing that with a standard brake hose and all steel fittings, as the original is probably not available and the original hose to steel bundy method looks a bit iffy me to me anyway. Really don't need to visit this again :-)...

[Tridac]

Update on the clutch saga. Took off the line to the slave cylinder. The sleeve around the bundy to hose joint was split, so that accounts for the leak. Have used a brake hose in replacement, with a short length of copper pipe between the bulkhead 12mm fitting and the brake hose 10mm. Could be done with a 10-12mm female adapter, but that’s all I could find. At the cylinder end, cut off the bundy at the joint, flared and fitted a 10mm sleeve for the brake hose, Also, made a support clip for the engine, though slightly different layout to stock, Bleed the system, check for leaks or fouling with other parts and now have a rock solid clutch, which starts to bite around 1-1.5 inches down…