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Suspension of Disbelief, Part 3.a.
At least be as ready as possible considering the possible variability of holes, pot-sized or otherwise. Limit your liability as follows.
Wil E Coyote Bye 1.pngWil E Coyote Bye 2.png
Had a mid-air moment like the illustrations above? Perhaps the words on the placard were ...different. Recently, as the glaciers retreat and the melt-waters erode the macadam, pot-holes loom; particularly at night.
- While you may recognize the peril posed to an oh so fashionably low aspect tire even at proper air pressure, or that any tire at a reduced pressure will almost invite a rim to get bent, that one needs several inches of side-wall (I think 65 series tires are safe), not just rated load capacity and air pressure to have a sufficient margin; and
- You might also know a bottomed-out Bilstein may most likely be blown with no strut drain hole if even a little unnoticed water is present inside the strut; but
- Did you know there's no fixed requirement to blow an OEM top-mount or tear an OEM A-arm bushing at the end of such an airborne excursion? The subject linked items below will help make that possible occurrence and inevitable landing less likely injurious to these suspension mountings.
Link: Arm-Stops Want Ad
Link: Strut-Stops Want Ad
You may have gathered by now this is yet another of a series of articles regarding how to achieve improved performance from your OEM bushed/mounted main suspension (and steering) attachment points economically, effectively and almost effortlessly. This is about the cumulative benefits of two materially very different but complementary (each mod better fixes and re-centers opposite ends of the MacPherson strut) and beautiful; restraints. The focus of this piece is the possible benefit of being best prepared for the unforssen.
By "improved", what happens is the changes still retain stock "as new" comfort and noise levels, but when pressed approach what an enthusiast may prefer in driving response, and yet have all those outcomes remain stable over a service life that out-lives the alternatives.
By "economically", what is meant is, I’m sorry, but as your current OEM bushes and mounts have been run un-aided, they are ruined anyhow. Replace them more effectively in conjunction with the addition of the subject mods' parts which will then aid the new OEMs to function reinforced and undiminished, for a very long time.
By "effectively", the physical difference of the reconfigured mount or bush is almost all axial. The mounts and bushings, buttressed by the mods can carry more axial load, will move less for a given axial input and have positive stops to limit axial travel. Another benefit to the preceding is radial strength is raised slightly and does not appear to degrade appreciably. The capacity and travel changes make mount and bush core collapse and tearing much more difficult to achieve.
By "almost effortlessly", know that reading the instructions takes a good deal longer than the actual install and those few steps fit neatly into the stock bush and mount replacement procedures. The few changes are all add-ons, entirely reversible and could be harmlessly removed, if one so desired.
As to "beautiful", in my view, like some of the best mods they are simple, helpful and near invisible.
I think you will like them. If I'm wrong, post them back undamaged and I'll return your money.
Separately, or better yet both “Arm" and "Strut-Stops” together (aka “Full Stops”) are hard wearing hardware for more certain steering, indefatigable alignment, less lean, still supple silent suspension; ...and less loud landings.
HTH
LB
At least be as ready as possible considering the possible variability of holes, pot-sized or otherwise. Limit your liability as follows.
Wil E Coyote Bye 1.pngWil E Coyote Bye 2.png
Had a mid-air moment like the illustrations above? Perhaps the words on the placard were ...different. Recently, as the glaciers retreat and the melt-waters erode the macadam, pot-holes loom; particularly at night.
- While you may recognize the peril posed to an oh so fashionably low aspect tire even at proper air pressure, or that any tire at a reduced pressure will almost invite a rim to get bent, that one needs several inches of side-wall (I think 65 series tires are safe), not just rated load capacity and air pressure to have a sufficient margin; and
- You might also know a bottomed-out Bilstein may most likely be blown with no strut drain hole if even a little unnoticed water is present inside the strut; but
- Did you know there's no fixed requirement to blow an OEM top-mount or tear an OEM A-arm bushing at the end of such an airborne excursion? The subject linked items below will help make that possible occurrence and inevitable landing less likely injurious to these suspension mountings.
Link: Arm-Stops Want Ad
Link: Strut-Stops Want Ad
You may have gathered by now this is yet another of a series of articles regarding how to achieve improved performance from your OEM bushed/mounted main suspension (and steering) attachment points economically, effectively and almost effortlessly. This is about the cumulative benefits of two materially very different but complementary (each mod better fixes and re-centers opposite ends of the MacPherson strut) and beautiful; restraints. The focus of this piece is the possible benefit of being best prepared for the unforssen.
By "improved", what happens is the changes still retain stock "as new" comfort and noise levels, but when pressed approach what an enthusiast may prefer in driving response, and yet have all those outcomes remain stable over a service life that out-lives the alternatives.
By "economically", what is meant is, I’m sorry, but as your current OEM bushes and mounts have been run un-aided, they are ruined anyhow. Replace them more effectively in conjunction with the addition of the subject mods' parts which will then aid the new OEMs to function reinforced and undiminished, for a very long time.
By "effectively", the physical difference of the reconfigured mount or bush is almost all axial. The mounts and bushings, buttressed by the mods can carry more axial load, will move less for a given axial input and have positive stops to limit axial travel. Another benefit to the preceding is radial strength is raised slightly and does not appear to degrade appreciably. The capacity and travel changes make mount and bush core collapse and tearing much more difficult to achieve.
By "almost effortlessly", know that reading the instructions takes a good deal longer than the actual install and those few steps fit neatly into the stock bush and mount replacement procedures. The few changes are all add-ons, entirely reversible and could be harmlessly removed, if one so desired.
As to "beautiful", in my view, like some of the best mods they are simple, helpful and near invisible.
I think you will like them. If I'm wrong, post them back undamaged and I'll return your money.
Separately, or better yet both “Arm" and "Strut-Stops” together (aka “Full Stops”) are hard wearing hardware for more certain steering, indefatigable alignment, less lean, still supple silent suspension; ...and less loud landings.
HTH
LB
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