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Never mind serious problems like leaks, impossible gearchange, running costs, etc... lets get on with the tip of the iceberg. At the start of all the cold weather I decided to remove my (aftermarket) alarm system...Along with the remote...So I couldn't unlock the car when it froze...Every morning...And evening...
It is a very simple circuit with;
-Power supply 2 wires
-Switch 2 wires
-Heater element 2 wires
Parts required:
-Heated Door Lock Control box 4A0 959 981 A
-Intermediate plate 4A0 959 993 A
-Nut x2 (more of a grommet, really) ???
-Handle microswitch 893 959 985
-Screw for microswitch x2 Self tapping, philips,
-Heated cylinder + anti theft right 893 837 064J
-Heated cylinder + anti theft left 893 837 063J
Luckily I was able to 'acquire' all of these parts from an unsuspecting source-Thanks daddy!
Steps:
1. Disconnect battery negative
2. Remove door card
3. If no power wire/connector from body, (through door hinge boot,) a constant 0V and 12V supply will be reuired-I just tapped into the central locking at bottom of the door-brown for 0V and Red/Black for 12V. Use connector 813 971 955, with the purple cap 443 972 614, to connect to control box.
4. Attach control unit to door frame using 'intermediate plate' & 2x nuts. It attaches vertically to 2 studs on the rear edge of the door frame. Naturally I didn't have the right nuts, so I had to use 2 black bulb holders as used in the instr display, with holes drilled through them. They go the other way up to what you'd expect as the studs aren't very long. Make sure it has fresh o-rings on both round connectors, as you don't want to do this too often...
5. Plug in power wire from body
6. Remove door handle & lock. This took absolutely ages as the outer cover plate had rusted to the metal bush inside the door handle. In the end I had to cut through the plastic of the handle with a chisel, then dremel down one side of the bush and use a screw driver to split it. Thankfully I didn't damage anything while doing this. I made a nylon bush to replace the ruined metal one, and used plenty of grease.
7. The microswitch screws on to the opposite end of the door handle to the lock. There should be 2 small holes approx. 1.5mm diameter-screw the small self tappers in. There should be an extension of the pull up (or a hole to put one in) to activate the microswitch. Improvise if there isn't one.
8. Coat lock in grease to try to keep water out. Refit handle, lock & outer cover plate all at once while twisting the annoying tin key thing.
9. Plug element & switch in to control box.
10. Refit door card and have a Coke whilst looking forward to the other side.........It'll be worth it on the next frosty morning!
If you are using new locks you will need to swap the cylinder over to continue using your current keys. This might be covered at a later date, but is pretty straight forward. This jobbie took a whole day.
Had reason to use it this morning & was very glad I had it!
Have fun, Jonathan
It is a very simple circuit with;
-Power supply 2 wires
-Switch 2 wires
-Heater element 2 wires
Parts required:
-Heated Door Lock Control box 4A0 959 981 A
-Intermediate plate 4A0 959 993 A
-Nut x2 (more of a grommet, really) ???
-Handle microswitch 893 959 985
-Screw for microswitch x2 Self tapping, philips,
-Heated cylinder + anti theft right 893 837 064J
-Heated cylinder + anti theft left 893 837 063J
Luckily I was able to 'acquire' all of these parts from an unsuspecting source-Thanks daddy!
Steps:
1. Disconnect battery negative
2. Remove door card
3. If no power wire/connector from body, (through door hinge boot,) a constant 0V and 12V supply will be reuired-I just tapped into the central locking at bottom of the door-brown for 0V and Red/Black for 12V. Use connector 813 971 955, with the purple cap 443 972 614, to connect to control box.
4. Attach control unit to door frame using 'intermediate plate' & 2x nuts. It attaches vertically to 2 studs on the rear edge of the door frame. Naturally I didn't have the right nuts, so I had to use 2 black bulb holders as used in the instr display, with holes drilled through them. They go the other way up to what you'd expect as the studs aren't very long. Make sure it has fresh o-rings on both round connectors, as you don't want to do this too often...
5. Plug in power wire from body
6. Remove door handle & lock. This took absolutely ages as the outer cover plate had rusted to the metal bush inside the door handle. In the end I had to cut through the plastic of the handle with a chisel, then dremel down one side of the bush and use a screw driver to split it. Thankfully I didn't damage anything while doing this. I made a nylon bush to replace the ruined metal one, and used plenty of grease.
7. The microswitch screws on to the opposite end of the door handle to the lock. There should be 2 small holes approx. 1.5mm diameter-screw the small self tappers in. There should be an extension of the pull up (or a hole to put one in) to activate the microswitch. Improvise if there isn't one.
8. Coat lock in grease to try to keep water out. Refit handle, lock & outer cover plate all at once while twisting the annoying tin key thing.
9. Plug element & switch in to control box.
10. Refit door card and have a Coke whilst looking forward to the other side.........It'll be worth it on the next frosty morning!
If you are using new locks you will need to swap the cylinder over to continue using your current keys. This might be covered at a later date, but is pretty straight forward. This jobbie took a whole day.
Had reason to use it this morning & was very glad I had it!
Have fun, Jonathan
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