K&N Fitting Guide

[Jamo]

The K&N part number is 33-2029 for the ABY (=> RS2?). I fitted one 2 months ago. Didn't make a huge difference but what the hell. You can always put it in your signature! Give the MAF a clean before/when you fit it and all should be well for a while. (I used brake cleaner... ).

Check out a previous thread that got everyone confused if you're interested. Click here.

Cheers

Andy

The correct part number is Part No. 33-2768 for the ABY / RS2, went to the local go faster shop who are actually quite clued up.

From the K&N website 33-2768

1996 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1995 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1994 (and later) AUDI 80 2.2L F/I - Turbo RS2
1994 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1993 (and later) AUDI 80 2.2L V6 F/I - Non-US, Turbo S2

[HPmuirt]

The correct part number is Part No. 33-2768 for the ABY / RS2, went to the local go faster shop who are actually quite clued up.

From the K&N website 33-2768

1996 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1995 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1994 (and later) AUDI 80 2.2L F/I - Turbo RS2
1994 AUDI RS2 2.2L L4 F/I - Non-US, Turbo
1993 (and later) AUDI 80 2.2L V6 F/I - Non-US, Turbo S2

I too can confirm that the 2.8 V6 and S2 K&N's are the same, but I was interested to not just what a mess the K&N list makes of the coupe range....

Apparently, there is a V6 S2 !! Does that mean that I can take the V6 out of my 93 coupe and drop it into my S2, keeping the turbo (and the airbox)? Now there's a challenge

Cheers

[Greg_S]

Dont think there is a V6 S2, some of the V6's came with S2 Bumpers but werent badged as S2's

[mcandmar]

3B and 7A

Yep, I had this problem too.....

The one in the pic is for 3B. (Rectangular shape).

The one listed for RS2 also fits ABY and is more square in shape.

Hope this helps!!?

[HPmuirt]

Dont think there is a V6 S2, some of the V6's came with S2 Bumpers but werent badged as S2's

My point exactly!!

My 2.8 has the S2 bumper, but is missing that funny hot whiney thing under the bonnet

Wanna buy it?

[stevieyid]

hi may sound a bit stupid but what is the MAF? does the k+n make a noticeable difference

[PeterS]

Guys:
Please realize that when you let more air into the engine you also let in more dirt ;-). Those of you running K&N or the like should occasionally clean the path around your maf with a cloth to see what the filter is letting through. Also realize that over oiling your filter can kill your MAF...when was the last time you priced a replacement.

Why doe we use air filters? - To keep dirt and other contaminants out of the engine...

Found this in my email archives and thought I should share:

The following information was taken from a posting by Jim Conforti (AKA
theLand Shark). Jim is a well known tuner in BMW circles. His web site is the
Bonneville Motor Werks. The testing was done on a BMW air filter but the concepts should apply to all manufacturers.

"Comparing Stock to Performance Air Filters"

First, a "prologue". This was a scientific test, not one done by filter manufacturer X to show that their filters are better than manufacturer Y. The test results are pretty irrefutable as the test lab tests and designs filters where "screw ups" are absolutely NOT allowable (I can't say any more for security. Think "Glow in the Dark").

OK, with that in mind, onward.

A scientific test was done on TEST filters where air was loaded with ACCTD (some standardized "test dust" called AC Coarse Test Dust) and sucked through the TEST filter then through an analysis membrane.

>From the Quantity of dust injected and the amount that gets thru the TEST filter and is then captured on the analysis membrane we can calculate the efficiency of the TEST filter in Question.

First, the filters:
BMW Stock Filter, Eff. Area of Media: 8.4 sq ft.
K&N Replacement, Eff. Area of Media: 1.6 sq ft.

The filters are the SAME size. They both fit in the STOCK BMW M3 airbox. The difference is that the STOCK filter has 65 pleats 1.5" deep and the K&N only 29 pleats each 0.75" deep.

Now, remember this ratio: " 5.25:1". It's the ratio of the AREA of STOCK to K&N. It's very important and will come into play later. The STOCK filter efficiency started at 93.4% at 0 loading and increased to 99.2% efficiency as the loading increased to a max tested of 38.8 gm/sq ft of dust.

The K&N filter efficiency started at 85.2% at 0 loading and increased to 98.1% at the max tested loading of 41.38 gm/sq ft.

Now, I hear you. "Jim, that's only a FEW PERCENT". But is it?
Let's look. If we had 100 grams of dust on a new BMW filter we would let thru a total of 6.6 grams of dust in. If we used the new K&N filter we get 14.8 grams of dust. Thats 224% (TWO HUNDRED TWENTY FOUR PERCENT!!) more dust ingested initially, stock vs. "free flow" and this ratio is pretty much held. Somewhere between 200-300% more dirt gets "ingested" anywhere across loading equivalence.

The more INTERESTING thing is when you look at what happens to the DP or Differential Pressure at a constant airflow as you dirty both filters equally with time.

The test used a rate of 75gr of dust per 20 min. Here's where the AREA difference comes MAJORLY into play. See, even though the BMW filter flows a bit less at the SAME loading, it also LOADS UP 5.25 times SLOWER due to it's LARGER effective area. So what happens is that the K&N initially flows better, but as the dirt continues coming in, the K&N eventually flows WORSE while still letting MORE dirt in.

Now, does any of this additional dirt cause problems? I dunno. I suppose we could have a few people do some independent oil analyses on different motors using both K&Ns and Stock filters. Get enough of them, and you'd have a good statistical basis. For me though, it's simple: More DIRT = BAD.

The additional short-term airflow might make sense on a track car. IMHO, it doesn't for the street.

<end>

-- Jim Conforti


- so in summary, something to consider before moving to a non stock filter....

-Peter

[Ski]

while we are on the subject, im going to purchase a induction kit from dahlback.

before I do, any other "better" induction kits? (no DIY jobbies plz)

[AAH!]

while we are on the subject, im going to purchase a induction kit from dahlback.

When ordering your dahlback kit do it online and give them a VAT number and they'll knock off the 25%(ish) sweedish VAT off.

Mine cost about £185.00 in total inc P&P and took 3 days to arrive.

Dahlback said they uprated the normal K&N Filter that comes out with the kit to a K&N X-Stream filter RX-4990 which should be good for 390bhp plus. Mind you I don't know what K&N they normally send out with the kit so maybe they where just saying they would to keep me happy.

This particular filter could be a good option for anyone how wants a K&N cone.

http://www.dahlbackracing.se/audi/rs...asp?Language=1

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalo...AM&from=search

[S2central.net]

Still friggin expensive for two joined sections of 3" stainless pipe, a wee section of silicone hose and a cone filter.

[Ski]

I agree, thought it would be a tad cheaper but hey i dont have tools or a garage so this is the only option for me.

[Jamo]

I agree, thought it would be a tad cheaper but hey i dont have tools or a garage so this is the only option for me.

Eh, 2 90 % samco hose, ally pipe and clips, bobs your uncle.

I've even seen posts on here using drain pipes!

[Ski]

the problem is geting the heatshield, and offcourse making it look good. dont really want to wrap my engine in tin foil

[Jamo]

the problem is geting the heatshield, and offcourse making it look good. dont really want to wrap my engine in tin foil

See this thread for how it's done http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...ht=intercooler

Doug's homemade brew.

[Ski]

cant view attached images will take a look later on and see if its something i can do myself.