Hey, the co driver window is not lifting up in my B4, it just goes down, now all the way... Luckily no rain this night, but I have to leave the car for a longer time, and don't wan't to leave the window open... Driver side works well. Is the relay the fault?
Edit. Ok, problem solved. The connector to the relay was loose, pressed it back in and the window started working again.
Window Relay 363 contact cleaning.
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I took the old relay to pieces and as per this thread the contact points had just become pitted and needed cleaning.Leave a comment:
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It's relay 287, which can still be bought from Audi UK. I was a bit confused, as the old one was marked 363, but as per the post above 287 is a direct replacement for the older one. The new ones aren't cheap, so it might worth fixing it or looking at eBay. I am going to have a go at fixing the one I took out, as the one in my other B4 is also beginning to play up.Leave a comment:
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Relay
Dean
Did you mean relay 285 or 287?!
Where did you get yours?
I think this will my issue too, as it hasn't done it since the summer. Funnily when I went to see the car to first look at it, the windows and roof wouldn't work, then later on they did! Hasn't been a problem since.
RobLeave a comment:
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I am going to take the old one apart and attempt a fix, as the one on my other B4 is also exhibiting the same symptons.Leave a comment:
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Thank you Mr G, I think I will take a look at the relay, as I don't think it's the switches. I replaced the switches on mine a while ago, so I don't think it's those.
I used to get it very occasionally in the hot weather as well,but then got it the other day and the windows didn't work until I got home after about an hours drive.Leave a comment:
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@Rob and DeanG - had the same problem on my RS2 - window and sunroof would not work when the car or rather the cabin was hot. Summer in SA can get rough
. I read on this here fine forum, that the problem could be related to "dry joints" on relay 285. I had the relay dry joints "re-soldered" and the problem disappeared
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For the cost of about £6 each, i would strongly recommend considering changing your window switches...
THE fix of the year for my coupe was replacing the window switches. My windows had been playing up as documented in many places but try as i might cleaning contacts, greasing cables, checking, changing the relay for known good one, continuity etc etc I couldn't find a fault.
I was convinced there was a break in the loom going to the door but an afternoon with multimeter proved the wires to be o.k, it also proved the switches were operating as intended...apart from their ability to carry enough current to make the windows work.
Most of the time the windows would go down but never go back up, then total failure. Obviously going up requires more effort because of gravity (probably) but whatever the difference in load - it was enough that my switch couldn't handle it. I got 3 new ones, stuck them in and
Be aware though, the passenger door switch gets it power from one in the drivers side so even putting a new switch in the faulty (on mine) passenger side wouldn't have fixed it. My new switches also come with LED illumination which was nice!Leave a comment:
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Rob,
That's exactly the same problem I have, both windows and the sunroof stop working temporarily. It's generally occurred in the hot weather, but it happened the other day as well. I also have another B4, where this is also happening.
DeanLeave a comment:
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Cold joint fix for a Code 329 = PN 441959257B UrS4s and 95 UrS6 (but not 96 or 97) control module, driver's kick panel.
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Here are some corresponding PNs and Control Module numbers and locations for those window/sunroof control modules:
441959257C used as far back as a 1980 AQS= 343

Code 329 = PN 441959257B UrS4s and 95 UrS6 (but not 96 or 97) Driver's kick panel area

4A0959257 "363" was dropped at some point and replaced by the 443959257B "287"

443959257B = 287 in the B3/B4 chassis:

443959257 "285"
Last edited by UrS4boy; 8 December 2015, 01:26.Leave a comment:
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