Subframe mouting guide

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  • maRS2
    S2Forum Addict
    • Oct 2003
    • 366
    • Home: France Current: Thailand

    #1

    Subframe mouting guide

    Does anyone have a guide or picture of how to change subframe bushes and if special tools require picture of it
    thanks
    fabien
    RS2 chip by mihnea,PKM short IM, forge dump valve, 3" custom stainless exhaust, 18"X8" Porsche 996 rims, conti contact 245/35 Front 225/40 Rear, QR sport top mount, Powerflex bushes, aloy sub frame bushes, neuspeed 19mm RARB,Hard tranny mount, V8 torsen on RS2
  • Alistair E
    S2Forum Addict
    • Jul 2003
    • 479

    #2
    Finished subframe mounts, Ben's solid ones.
    Quick guide.
    Remove wheels and undertray. Disconnect roll bar from droplinks. Remove roll bar mounts from subframe, 13mm bolts x 4, remove roll bar.
    Unbolt the inner wishbone bolts from the subframe, 17mm. You will need a swan neck 17mm spanner to hold the nut inside the subframe. Lower the wishbones away from the subframe.
    Remove the covers from the inner wings which arch over the driveshafts. They are made of plastic and foam and are held on by two 10mm plastic nuts. Just in front of each rear subframe mount is a domed cover which shields the nut for the gearbox to subframe mount. Remove this cover, 8mm self tappers.
    Support gearbox and remove the nuts from these mounts, 17mm. Access to the top of the mounts is through the inner wing just above the driveshaft. You are now ready to remove the subframe bolts, 18mm x 4. The subframe can be a little tricky to manouvre past the exhaust, or maybe I was just a little rushed as it was p***ing down.
    I'll leave you to decide how to remove the bushes from the subframe, just be warned that they are very tight. Also you cannot see the outside edge of the bush to be able to drive it out as the rubber covers it. There is a picture of the actual removal tool on the Subframe Group Buy thread.
    Refitting is the reverse of removal.
    One thing to be aware of with the solid replacement bushes. The bolts for the rear wishbone to subframe mounts will not pass the rear subframe mount. You therefore have to choices. Slide the wishbone bolt in before fitting the rear subframe mount. Or, as I did, slide the bolt in from inside the subframe. This can be done but is quite fiddly with a pair if narrow nosed pliers.
    Sorry, no pictures.

    Hope this helps.

    Alistair

    Comment

    • audiman
      S2Forum Freak
      • Jul 2003
      • 4827
      • Country: United Kingdom

      #3
      I dont understand what you mean about the rear end of the coupe?? Did you remove the rear subframe then?? Maybe this is why i found no problem as i left it in the car and used a hacksaw to cut throught the bush!!!! Not much fun
      sigpic
      Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
      Audi UR Quattro
      Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
      Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
      Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm

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      • porkkis
        S2Forum Extremist
        • Aug 2003
        • 1994
        • Country: Finland

        #4
        It's absolutely crucial to measure that the wishbones are correctly aligned in the car when tightening the subframe. Official tightening procedure is just based on tightening order but this can not assure that the wishbone ends are both as front/back. Take some chassis plugs out from the bottom and measure distance on each side to the wishbone ends. This is the only way to get it right.
        -

        Comment

        • audiman
          S2Forum Freak
          • Jul 2003
          • 4827
          • Country: United Kingdom

          #5
          Explain more Porkkis, i never realised any of this! With the solid bushes it doesnt tend to move very much. when the bolts are slightly loose
          sigpic
          Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
          Audi UR Quattro
          Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
          Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
          Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm

          Comment

          • porkkis
            S2Forum Extremist
            • Aug 2003
            • 1994
            • Country: Finland

            #6
            I can't I ran out of words.

            Anyway 3 of 4 subframe mounting points at body are "floating". One is fixed. This allows the subframe to be adjusted a bit. If the subframe is not correctly positioned the cambers will change as the "rear axle" is not straight. Subframe has to be tightened by measuring its position using body plugs etc as a reference.
            -

            Comment

            • audiman
              S2Forum Freak
              • Jul 2003
              • 4827
              • Country: United Kingdom

              #7
              Ah right, need to find this info, must admit, looking back at the job i do remember that one bolt hole was different.
              Last edited by audiman; 13 February 2005, 22:31. Reason: cos i cant spell my own language
              sigpic
              Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
              Audi UR Quattro
              Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
              Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
              Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm

              Comment

              • robo
                S2Forum Fiend
                • Aug 2004
                • 2086
                • Home: Poland Current: England

                #8
                F@k and I just got all 4 wheel alignment done after changing all sub frame bushes and ball joints, and like Tom I could not get one of bolts in strait.
                Maybe after all there will be some space on Greg’s ramp?
                ______
                Rob
                sigpic_________
                Rob

                Comment

                • Alistair E
                  S2Forum Addict
                  • Jul 2003
                  • 479

                  #9
                  Sorry about the confusion, this is the front subframe on a 94 Avant. When I say the rear wishbone bush, I mean the one nearer the back of the car of the two which attach the wishbone to the subframe.
                  I'm having the 4 wheel alignment done at Baschurch. I'm replacing other suspension bits and the track rod ends before then. That way the alignment will be the last thing to be done.
                  Difficult to tell, but none of the mountings appeared to move when I dropped the subframe. Guess I'll find out when the alignment is done.
                  Another couple of comments about the solid mounts. Road noise seems to be more noticeable at lower speeds and you feel the potholes a bit more. Also, I can hear some gearbox noise in 1st gear. Above 40mph, not really any different. Car definitely feels a bit sharper especially with both the subframe mounts and the solid top mounts from Tim. I would definitely recomend both these mods.

                  Alistair

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