Hello mates!
I dont know realy if its a guide for you on how to do that.I do not pretend to teach anyone.Just wanna show how I did the job.
So,head on place.There are two method to keep valves unmoving during the prccess as far as I can know.Pumping air into combustion chamber (about 6-8 bar) and filling the combustion chamber with rope when piston is at bottom dead center and later compressing with piston the rope against the valves .
I elected the rope method.It is much slower,but safer for me.And I dont need to hear the air compressor working all the time.
Ok.Bumper,IC,crossmembers,pipe to throttle body out.Aux rad?I bent it to a side and ensured with old wire.
Aux belts out.Timing belt cover out.Engine set up on timing marks.
Timing belt loosed from camshaft puley.
Camshaft puley removal.Did my own tool for this step.Basicly its a racord spanner shortened blocking elements to do not damage hall sender disc.
Camshaft leaking seal.
Camshaft puley OK.
Throttle body,injection and hall wiring,coilpack out.
Coilpack I had removed before but it doesnt metter.
Breather system to cam cover out.
This before also but anyway.
Cam cover out.
For a camshaft removal ELSA says:
Exhaust cam.First bearing cap nearest to chane,then cap 2 and 4 in X,and cap 1,3,5 in X.
Intake cam.Cap nearest to chane.7 and 9 in X,and 6,8,10 in X.
Allright.
Lifters and spark plugs out.
Setting cyl1 at bottom.I used 7a dip stick for this.
And then I worked with this.ebay valve compressor and 10 meter soft rope.
Filled 3 meters into cylinder helping at some points with long flat screw driver.Turned cranksaft clockwise until I feel its enough.Hammered upper valve spring seats.Set up the brackets for a tool.Was thinking how to do not damage new seals during install couse seals came with out caps.Managed this with
heat shrink sleeve.I started.At the begining one by one later 2 by 2.
The difference.Old 7mm ID hard like a stone (elring).New 6.1 mm.
7A,ABY and Victor Reinz
more pics tomorrow.
I dont know realy if its a guide for you on how to do that.I do not pretend to teach anyone.Just wanna show how I did the job.
So,head on place.There are two method to keep valves unmoving during the prccess as far as I can know.Pumping air into combustion chamber (about 6-8 bar) and filling the combustion chamber with rope when piston is at bottom dead center and later compressing with piston the rope against the valves .
I elected the rope method.It is much slower,but safer for me.And I dont need to hear the air compressor working all the time.
Ok.Bumper,IC,crossmembers,pipe to throttle body out.Aux rad?I bent it to a side and ensured with old wire.
Aux belts out.Timing belt cover out.Engine set up on timing marks.
Timing belt loosed from camshaft puley.
Camshaft puley removal.Did my own tool for this step.Basicly its a racord spanner shortened blocking elements to do not damage hall sender disc.
Camshaft leaking seal.
Camshaft puley OK.
Throttle body,injection and hall wiring,coilpack out.
Coilpack I had removed before but it doesnt metter.
Breather system to cam cover out.
This before also but anyway.
Cam cover out.
For a camshaft removal ELSA says:
Exhaust cam.First bearing cap nearest to chane,then cap 2 and 4 in X,and cap 1,3,5 in X.
Intake cam.Cap nearest to chane.7 and 9 in X,and 6,8,10 in X.
Allright.
Lifters and spark plugs out.
Setting cyl1 at bottom.I used 7a dip stick for this.
And then I worked with this.ebay valve compressor and 10 meter soft rope.
Filled 3 meters into cylinder helping at some points with long flat screw driver.Turned cranksaft clockwise until I feel its enough.Hammered upper valve spring seats.Set up the brackets for a tool.Was thinking how to do not damage new seals during install couse seals came with out caps.Managed this with
heat shrink sleeve.I started.At the begining one by one later 2 by 2.
The difference.Old 7mm ID hard like a stone (elring).New 6.1 mm.
7A,ABY and Victor Reinz
more pics tomorrow.
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