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  • Electric windows

    my drivers side electric window just went.... Stripped door down.....
    Found it was cables inside electric motor ... caused by perished plastic guides...

    I need A: New electric motor B: New cables with guides........

    Any idea how to set up the electric motor? Cause tried to make temporay repair to old one ..... however the window was not doing what it was supposed to when you hit the button!!

    (Please note ... u press the button once It goes up all the way till closed.. press again it opens till closed)

    Any help pls

  • #2
    Does no-one know anything about these?

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    • #3
      thats last bit about opening and clsoing doesnt make sense. Ben (s2avant) will probably know

      Greg
      Greg

      S2Forum.com Administrator & Webmaster

      '93 Coupe with a few tweeks

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      • #4
        Has your 3B has one touch up and down on the drivers window? I can't remember if 91 cars have up and down or just down.

        Does the window stop if you press the switch the other way while it's moving?

        Have you got a total closure alarm or something like that?

        Ben
        the best intentions are fraught with disappointment - gil grissom

        sigpic
        1994 ABY Avant - it's getting there

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        • #5
          Here is a post i done a few year ago, my problem wasnt the motor but the cable snapped::

          My cable went last year and the way I set it up was to undo the
          old mechanism with the window supported on blocks at mid position.(The black
          cable guides need twisting 90 degrees to free them at the top back of the
          door closest to the handle and pulley, also middle front of the door where
          the bare cable comes out of the reel and over the pulley at the front top)
          Then undo all of the cable clamps and unclip the cable off the window guides.
          Then remove the motor and gearbox with the cables intact.

          It is easiest if you have a large table to overhaul the mechanism to lay it
          and its cables out flat to avoid the risk of dropping it. If changing just
          the pulley place the new reel on top of the old unit and set the new cable
          in exactly the same position as the old one and move to one side in the set
          position.
          Now remove the metal cover off the old reel housing to expose the reel.
          Now prise the old pulley off the motor(this is held in place with a rubber
          coupling consisting of 3 vanes on the back of the pulley and three vanes on
          the motor gearbox assembly with a star shaped rubber that slots into the
          vanes to provide drive). Make sure that the Gearbox output does not come out
          aswell as this holds a can of worms together which are an absolute nightmare
          to rebuild.
          Note I found it a much easier task to leave the old reel housing together
          with the gearbox(main housing white plastic).
          USING PLENTY OF SILICONE GREASE, Unclip the black plastic transportation cover
          off the new pulley and cable unit and (holding the cable tight) carefully lift
          out the pulley from the new housing and slot it into position over the rubber
          coupling in the old housing and gearbox(be careful as the cable will try to
          un ravel off the pulley).
          Once in position re fasten the cover and screws then the unit should now be
          ready to fit back into the door.
          After re fitting the motor run the cables around the pulleys and into the
          location lugs at the back of the window guide Note the black cable guides are
          fiddly to twist into position at the top off the door I used some long nosed
          pliers to rotate the black cable guide 90degrees into the locked position.
          Clamp the cable at the front guide (the bolt and plate which pins the front
          vertical run of the cable to the window carrier) then re connect wiring and
          try the window (without door card) with the door closed.

          If there is a gap in the seal-
          With the door closed undo the front clamp and move the window into position
          then re clamp and go for a drive to check for wind noise try the window a
          few times, open and close the door in different positions and tweak with it
          till its perfect and enjoy. :-)

          P.S. While you play with the new cable and mechanism getting the seal right,
          coat the runner guides in silicone grease, you wont believe how much faster
          the window runs
          Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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          • #6
            Hi Guys
            My drivers side window has just stopped operating too! Pressed switch to open, window staretd to open then loud "crack" noise from inside door and window fell all the way down! When I press window switch now, I hear motor running but window static. I have ulled window up manually, and now need to gain access to interior of door. Silly Question, how can I get access to door interior to check what is wrong?
            Thanks
            Ian
            '91 3B Coupe

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            • #7
              There is a thread on here detailing how to remove the door cards.... its not that hard at all, i cant think from memory now, i know there is a screw at the end of the door card and a couple of allan key bolts under the diagonal part of the arm on the doorcard, once you have removed that, there is another in the open end of the flat laying part, undo that and the whole arm comes off.

              Then undo the screw behind the handle, you need to pull this fully to see it hidden behind.

              Once you've done that and unplugged your window switches, the card needs to be pushed up as the clips that hold it on unclip in that direction.

              Hope that makes sense, its an easy thing to do once youve done it, sounds more complex trying to explain it
              Ant

              2007 Mk5 Golf GTi, 3 door, DSG, REVO Stg 2 and other goodies
              2011 Kawasaki Z1000

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              • #8
                Thanks Ant, I will try this.
                Ian
                '91 3B Coupe

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