your 1/4 mile times!!!!

[Pisobiker]

Originally posted by Doug_RS2
Cheers

How does wind resistance affect this Marco? If you do it from 0mph in 1st - it's going to give different results from doing it in 5th from 80mph up?

Of course this way you get "real", "on the road" performances, which means power and torque delivered from weels to ground and left after all the absorbtion forces have reduced it (gearbox, transmission, tires, aerodynamics).

Let's make an example:

4th gear run:
1) you start from 0 mph in 1st beginning storage of data;
2) at 3000 rpm change in 2nd;
3) at 3000 change in 3th, than at 3000 change in 4th;
4) WOT till redline (this is the data you will use).

Sarting from 0 mph is the only way the device would know at what speed you are when starting to record useful data.

Now this run, compared to a rolling road 4th gear run, will show less power, due to the fact that on a r.r. you have 0 (zero) aerodynamical drag (which is sensible; it depends on wehicle cx but 50/60hp at 120 mph woud be a resonable value).

In my experience, even if a 4th gear run would be in the better performance range of engine, in open road 4th gear test is pretty hard to do. I didn't find around here a straight, leveled road long enaugh to allow starting from 0 mph, changing 3 gears, accelerating till redline in 4th (which means around 130 mph :eek2: ) and than braking early enaugh not to take of on following turn .
So, at the moment, all my mesurements are taken in 3th gear which, of course, will lead to a higher output detected (less speed=less aerodynamical+wheels+transmission drag).
In this case my ~280 hp at wheels in 3th gear ( at 35°C outside temp, 311 hp at 9°C) would probably mean 220 in 4th; then, adding some 40 hp for aerodynamical drag (3th gear run ends at about 100 mph) would probably go in the ~260 hp at wheels of a r.r.
Dividing then everything for the probable transmission + wheels efficiency of 0.75 shoud get some 350 hp at engine.

Marco

[s2avant]

I found these on the ross-tech website. They may be helpful.

The first one is a dyno plot spreadsheet. You enter telemetry data from vag-com into the appropriate boxes and it works out power and torque and plots a graph.

dynoplot.xls

The second one is used to calculate shift points. Again you stick in vag-com telemetry data and it does the rest for you.

shiftpoints.xls

I've not tried them as I cannot get vag-com to work with the lead I have (VAG 1603 coupled to 5051/2 2X2 adaptor). If anyone can point me in the direction of where I can get a suitable lead, it would be much appreciated.

Ben

[Doug_RS2]

Nice - need to try this - the decelleration confused me but that's a cut and paste column.

I got my vag-com and leads from www.sensolutions.com

It was the cheapest I found - Are you sure your serial port is setup right? Can you get blink codes out of the diagnostic ports on the car?

[s2avant]

Doug,

Blink codes are fine and it works with other vag-com adaptors. The problem is with the vag6103 cable. VW put a filter in the housing to stop it being used for anything other than the newest cars. It is only designed for dash insert and ecu recoding. That way they can make dealers buy more than one cable to do the same job. No problems on a MKIV golf or new A4 etc. It just won't work with the old 2X2 arrangement.

Which adaptor did you get? And what was the delivery cost and time?

Ben

[Doug_RS2]

Receipt:

MONO-COM Package
1 Mono-Com
$ 79.99
1 Vag-Com license
$150.00
1 Adapter for Older Cars
$65.75
Shipping and Handling (Registered small parcel airmail) $ 24.50
You credit card has been charged $320.24


£140 all in(these are Canadian dollars) - which I thought was very reasonable.

Took 3 days and I could track it on the web. Emailed them reg details and had a reply within the hour with my codes.

Top Service.

[s2avant]

Cheers for that. I think I'll be placing an order later.

Ben

[QuattroFever]

Managed 13.4 @ 104mph on a gt3071 .63 gentle midrange map stock block and head.