crank bolt

[nip]

Having a problem undoing the crank bolt, block is on a engine stand so no flywheel, no sump, tryed a block of wood against the crank, using a breaker bar with a 3ft sleeve over it still no joy, any ideas???
cheers nip

[quattrostyle]

I made a bracket out of 3mm. steel plate that bolted onto the crank using one of the flywheel bolts and the other side bolted onto one of the holes where the starter motor is bolted on, easy peasy.

[nip]

I made a bracket out of 3mm. steel plate that bolted onto the crank using one of the flywheel bolts and the other side bolted onto one of the holes where the starter motor is bolted on, easy peasy.

cheers have you still got the bracket

[mcandmar]

I had a real nightmare with that problem too, tried the crank locking tool bolted to the block and all it did was try to topple over my engine stand. The solution i found was to rest the crank locking tool on a metal ramp (the small ones you drive a car onto) so the cranking force was pushing straight down onto the floor, then when i hung off the big breaker bar i was able to get it undone. Basically use the weight of the engine to your advantage.

[quattrostyle]

cheers have you still got the bracket

nope but it's really easy to make one yourself, measure the distance between the bolt holes, cut a piece of steel and drill the holes

[nip]

nope but it's really easy to make one yourself, measure the distance between the bolt holes, cut a piece of steel and drill the holes

ok cheers

[nip]

I had a real nightmare with that problem too, tried the crank locking tool bolted to the block and all it did was try to topple over my engine stand. The solution i found was to rest the crank locking tool on a metal ramp (the small ones you drive a car onto) so the cranking force was pushing straight down onto the floor, then when i hung off the big breaker bar i was able to get it undone. Basically use the weight of the engine to your advantage.

sounds like same situation, stand lifts off floor will try that , going to bodge a bracket up first if no joy cheers

[AndyP]

This is how I did it with an AAT block on the stand:-

Locked the flywheel with a bolt, not sure there are the same holes in an ABY engine, if not, remove the flywheel and use a breaker bar wedged in the flywheel bolts to lock it



Then, most impostant of all, brace the engine so that it cannot bend down on the stand, this will stopp all the turing force your putting into the bolt being wasted. I used a length of timber. Then get your trusty assistant to stand on the engine stand to provide some ballast!



A decent 3/4" breaker bar with zero flex also helps

[andy10v]

Once the crank is locked if you can lock a long pole to hold the engine the engine (ie over crank pulley and under snub bracket or similar and get the breaker bar on the crak bolt you can stand with one bar in each hand and just pull/push them together, easy as.

There has been a few DIY crank locking threads recently with pictures.

[nip]

Once the crank is locked if you can lock a long pole to hold the engine the engine (ie over crank pulley and under snub bracket or similar and get the breaker bar on the crak bolt you can stand with one bar in each hand and just pull/push them together, easy as.

There has been a few DIY crank locking threads recently with pictures.

cheers andy will try tomorrow

[martinws]

Im going to be doing this pretty soon. I take it that if i lock it using what quattrostyle said only one of the flywheel bolt holes will be strong enough? i thought about making a sort square tool that would bolt to both starter holes and two of the flywheel holes?

[quattrostyle]

I believe I used two holes on the crank indeed, was easily strong enough.

[audis293]

I bought a thick 2 1/2" threaded galvanized steel pipe (for plumbing) with external diametre 67 mm. You get this in lenghts shown on the photo. it is only a short piece.
You will have to weld this onto a bar and cut out a piece so it fits inside the damper. I had to grind off alittle off the surface of the pipe, so it is actually 66 mm roughly.
If you have a long arm on this and use a socket with a long arm as well, you will easily get this off by hand. I used roughly a 1.2 m arm on the pipe part and 1.2 m on the socket part. If it is really stuck, go for a longer arm and keep the two arms "close" so you can hold with one arm, and twist the socket with the other arm.

I did try with thinner pipe (1.5 mm) but it buckled pretty quick
See photos.

[Thuppu]

The right thing to do this job is to do it like audis293, lock the damper with a proper tool that fits it. If you lock the crank you can easily destroy the pulley keyway. This is especially inportant when you tighten the damper. The crank bolt turns the damper when you tighten the bolt, and if you has locked the crank all force lies only on the pulley keyway, and it's not directly uncommon that the crank pulley fails on these engines.


Ps. Why is this thread in 'members cars' area?

[quattro]

I did the same with an old wheel baring shell from a vw polo, I would not use the fly wheel to lock it!