seems like the shaft broke.....maybe no dumpvalve?
KRBTrading S1 Dyno 1061 whp
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I was only kidding though, being a pioneer on this level means weird stuff will happen at some time. Strange thing is that i don't see any shaft in the impeller.
From all the broken shafts i've seen were the friction weld hasn't gone on the turbine side you would normally see the remaining piece of shaft with compressor nut gets stuck in the impeller due to the frictional head transfer.
Shearing the shaft is not that difficult, mess up the pressure balance in a rapid way and it'll go.
Anyone more info on the oil-less principle?Comment
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From another forum:Ideal for remote mounted turbo's which suffer from oil starvation or return issues such as the V6 RS4 B5 then.The way the comp turbos work is that they use very high speed angular bearings, there are 2 opposing on the compressor side, and a third on the turbine side that is under light spring pressure to account for thremal expansion.
The oil less turbos are basically just a standard comp TBB center, the only big advancement is the addition of a very specific extremely high temperature capable grease that is used to pack the bearing unit with. This is expected to last 5 years or 40-50k miles.
They work unbeleiveably, the 70mm and smaller stuff is pretty affordable, but the best 346-408ci turbo is the 8079, and the oil-less version is around $2400. Size for size the Comp will make more power, spool faster, and has a stronger billet compressor wheel than anything else. This is jsut my opinion from experiece
I don't know if it's of any good use for the road user. I mean on the Mitsu rally cars i get my hands on it's normal to send them away for rebalancing with new bearing set every ~1500 stage km's so the mean time between possible failure gets quite short.
It looks like it needs a good water jacket to stabilize temperature in the cartridge, and some special grease to maintain lubrication of those (ceramic?) bearings.Comment
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