Jeremy - 1994 Audi 90 CS Quattro Sport

[andy10v]

The AAN intake manifold interferes with the stock radiator position in a small chassis 5 pot, the rad can be tilted out the way with a slimline fan, or some people have used a front mounted radiator. I would be inclined to tilt the rad and use the front for an intercooler.

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

Ive spotted this car not too far from where i live, looks like it could be a prime candidate (if engine code is right) for a engine and goodies swap

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/2758552644.html

[djh]

thats a 3b and yes would be a good donor.

edit - apart from the steering wheel, I bet that glows in the dark.

[Error404]

Regarding the long gear ratios, in every car ive been in ive wanted longer gears so i would see that as an upgrade

OK, so now we're talking 20v TURBO the V6 gear ratios are probably not too dissimilar to the 3B (5spd S2) ratios - the 3B will do well over 110 in 3rd gear! Definately too long for the 7A, but for 20vt ok! Best swap for you will be find an AAN motor from a URS4/S6 and then get a few bits shipped over from Europe, or make your own up.

List of parts you want to think about for the most cost effective engine swap:

Engine - AAN or 3B
Engine mounts - custom or buy the OE chassis mounts off the dealer and cut / weld the chassis
Harness & ECU - AAN from the donor car or get an ABY loom from Europe.
Inlet manifold - Use the AAN (requires mods to the radiator mounting angle), or get a 3B or ABY one
20v radiator (7A uses same radiator set-up as the S2, so easy to find your side of the pond)
Ignition - use AAN / ABY coils or get an aftermarket high output coil setup (3B dizzy is ok for moderate power, but can cause problems further down the line)
Cross member & intercooler - ABY, RS2 or make up custom set-up.
Airbox - ABY airbox or cone filter with thorough heat shielding
Boost & coolant hoses - you need to change these with the engine, as the V6 ones are all different.
Clutch - V6 item will struggle to handle the torque. Southbend is a good option your side of the pond.

I think that covers most of it. Then you hit the slippery slope and start throwing stronger rods at the engine etc etc etc.... all fun and games

HTH
Alex

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

Ive talked to the owner of that car with the 3B motor. It was a 20v car to begin with so it was alot easier to just throw in the 20vt. He advised me that it would be far easier to find a motor (perferably AAN) and figure out all of the mechanics. Then run a standalone engine management and splice in my current harness in the car to get all the gauges and so on working.

Assuming i can find a motor within the next couple months

Engine mounts i shouldnt have an issue making custom

Hopefully find a motor with the harness and ecu

can i not use the current radiator in my car?

I dont think my clutch is going to last too much longer anyway so an upgrade is a must.

Haha, maybe way down the road il throw 10grand at the motor and see how fast it il go. hehe

As you all can see I am not terribly mechanical. - Ive had 3 cars with motor swaps but did none of the swaps myself haha

[macspring]

Alex has summed it up pretty well, you won't go far wrong with his advices.

ANN inlet manifold/ angled radiator + ANN ignition, rather than 3b.

Rear ended UrS4/6 is your next move.

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

Rear ended UrS4/6 is your next move.


Where am i guna find one of those in B.C. ???? hahaha - now the search begins!!!

[macspring]

Nip accross the big border, if you're serious about this.

[UrS4boy]

Ive spotted this car not too far from where i live, looks like it could be a prime candidate (if engine code is right) for a engine and goodies swap
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/2758552644.html

Looks like a 3B (from a US spec 200 20VT) into the 3B Audi 90. However, it must have been tuned by the magic faeries because otherwise "chipped ecu about 300 to 320 hp" is complete and utter BS. (Not possible with the stock K24-7000 turbo and injectors).

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

He mentioned (and it says in the post) he upgraded the injectors and changed the spring in the wastegate. Dont know if those things would bring it up to those levels.

- remember in canada we like to talk about hp at the crank and not the true bhp. HAHA

Who is Nip? - ah found him - that border is just a bit too big... i think.

[macspring]

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=44130&sid=245a8e09c4d3c04face088df0e48cefc&view=unread#unread

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42256&sid=245a8e09c4d3c04face088df0e48cefc&view=unread#unread

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

too far in the first ad and the second one hes keeping all the parts id need. - Im guna keep looking There has got to be something within 1000km of me. Just waiting to be uncovered.

[Warner]

See in ontario they rot out and get parted. easy to find. i know of 3 being oarted right now.

The one you showed for sale would be good cause it would be easy to just remove from his car and install in yours.
Your is very similar as a front clip. though your B4 is better. B5 rear end, folding seats.

[Jeremy Sawatzky]

The one in new hampshire looks great, if it was in ontario id consider shipping it over here but its across the border on top of being so far east. So that one is a no go, and the second one is already parted.

[tecknoquatt]

Got your email Jeremy. Been all the way through this swap you speak already. Mine is a B4 90Q with an AAN swap like you want to do. If you want the classic 5 cylinder sound and a turbo car than its the way to go. As people have mentioned the various engine codes it doesn't really matter what you get cause if you want big power later you can always use a standalone ecu and have a distributor less car pretty easily. Get an AAN if you can, get 3B or if your planing on building up the internals right away than a 7A from a coupe or B3 90 would be fine too. The easiest thing to do is source a LHD S2 ABY harness if you are using an AAN. If its a 3B than get a LHD 3b Coupe harness. Ill email you some helpful wiring info. It probably won't make any sense to you until you start doing it but it will help a lot.

As for the motor mount issue just like people have said you will either need to buy some new mounting brackets that you will need to prep and weld onto the side members then paint. Then you can use any I5 engine mounts to bolt the 7A engine support arms to. I for now have used custom support arms in place of 7A/ABY ones that mate up to the factory B4 V6 engine mounts.

As long as your transmission and rear diff are in good operating order you will be fine with what you have right now. You will want to get a new clutch and flywheel anyway. A 7A clutch and pressure plate with a 7A flywheel will work just fine. I used a lightened 7A flywheel and used a balanced stage 3+ southbend clutch kit. The gearing is fine. I would prefer to have a 6 spd from an RS2 but I have no issues right now.

You need to keep your 12v power steering pump cause you can't use the 7A/ABY/AAN/3B one on your hydraulic system. It will be simpler in the end anyway. If you wanna convert it all over so its proper to the eye than you can but thats what myself and Peter in NJ did and works perfectly.

I can give you plenty more information on what you should do and not do but Ive got a christmas party to get to. Just check motorgeek for my build thread and message me when you need to.