jbrentd's 2nd Chance CQ

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    This is precisely why i rebuild my own engine this time around. When i paid a so called expert to do it for me he also broke the key on the top pulley ( probably using a ratchet gun or not supporting the sprocket when removing or replacing) causing me a whole load of grief and extra work. At least you found these things now before serious damage was caused.

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    So, I started digging in to replace the lifters and found something bad. After removing the valve cover, I discovered that the machine shop I used put the cam caps on the wrong sides. They are in the proper order (front to back) and in the correct orientation...just on the wrong side. I am so mad at myself for not noticing this when I installed the head.



    Here’s what the all the caps look like. I don’t feel any ridges when running a fingernail over the surfaces.




    The cams.







    The head sans cams.




    And I found this in the process. Sometimes I feel like this thing is a ticking time bomb.



    Here’s a look at the lifters. I tried pressing on the plunger (or whatever it’s called) with a wooden dowel and none of them would budge.





    I only really noticed this one on the left that looked different than the others. Thinking this is the source of the lifter ticking.



    I shared those pics with Jeff Gerner and some others and they were surprised the head wasn't junked. I am hoping things are okay.

    The plan is as follows. Please let me know if you think I am forgetting something.
    • Install the cam caps correctly and check the bores for any sharp edges between the caps and head
    • Install the cams and caps correctly without the lifters and rotate the cams to see if they rotate smoothly
    • Install everything (including the new lifters) correctly and time the head.
    • Drain the oil, change the filter
    • Rinse the head with some cheap oil and let it drain straight out the pan.
    • Fill with fresh oil (maybe something with some higher zinc content) and send it
    • Change the oil/filter again after 500 or so miles

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    I bought them from Pete a few weeks ago and am just prepping them to go on my car.

    Someone did a great job of getting them off without damaging them! My old ones were cracked and chipped and I don't see how it would be possible to get them off this clean.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Jaswan
    replied
    Well done on the sills, I found then physically impossible to remove intact from my car!

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  • Greg_S
    replied
    Did the trims come up well?

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone!

    Here are some updates from my time off for the holidays. Gave the coupe a real wash for the first time in a long time. Hoping to take it to the local C&C this weekend if the weather looks good.



    I started working on cleaning up some used door sills that are in pretty good shape.





    And in an effort to quiet down some noisy lifters, I tried running it with a quart of ATF to see if that would help. Before and after seem the same to me, so I have some lifters and a new cam chain inbound from AutohausAZ. Here's a video I put together.




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  • jbrentd
    replied
    Another issue found and fixed. I noticed I was losing some brake fluid and it was showing up at the bell housing (best I could tell). I bought a new slave cylinder when I bought the master cylinder. Guess I should have just replaced them both together.

    Got the new slave in this afternoon. I was a little worried that it would be a fight, but it only took about 45 minutes. The worst part was scrambling to find something to plug the clutch line with so I didn't lose a ton of brake fluid.

    The trick where you compress the plunger, fill with brake fluid and insert the dust cover worked like a charm. And it seems as though I am getting fairly efficient at reverse bleeding the clutch line (knock on wood).

    The old was definitely in bad shape.






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  • jbrentd
    replied
    After receiving the clip from FCPEuro, I got it installed in leu of the makeshift hose clamp I was using. I also adjusted the pedal so that there is only the slightest bit of gap between it and the stop on the floorboard. It's not as stretched as we thought it might have been. I also found the clip that helps keep the cable in the throttle cam on one of my spare 7A throttle bodies.



    Got some new bling for the engine. A friend of mine made this oil filler cap for me in exchange for a cam sprocket he needed for his engine build.


    I pulled the old roof rack out and mounted it up. I think I prefer the clean lines of the roof without the rack.

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    Originally posted by varia

    I don't think he actually made those, for me it seems like a MAPCO brand from Germany, I got a set too few months ago.
    quality seems good, no issue installing them.

    I like the seat, blends in nicely and i bet it comfy too.
    Cool, didn't know that. Glad they're a good fit.

    The seats are pretty comfortable.

    Originally posted by newsh

    Get someone to sit in the car and hold the pedal down to the floor then adjust the cable for only just tight or the tiniest bit of slack, otherwise when you truly floor it the first time you're likely to break something.
    Will do, thanks for tips!


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  • varia
    replied
    Originally posted by jbrentd

    Alter-Mann

    Parts and apparel for the discerning automotive enthusiast. Volkswagen MK1, MK2 and MK3 brakes, suspension and drivetrain upgrades. We also serve BMW and Porsche as well.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I don't think he actually made those, for me it seems like a MAPCO brand from Germany, I got a set too few months ago.
    quality seems good, no issue installing them.

    I like the seat, blends in nicely and i bet it comfy too.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by jbrentd
    Thanks! I'll look for the correct parts, but in the meantime this has fixed the slack in the throttle cable and I'm able to go WOT. It's like driving a totally different car when you have full access to the go pedal.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Get someone to sit in the car and hold the pedal down to the floor then adjust the cable for only just tight or the tiniest bit of slack, otherwise when you truly floor it the first time you're likely to break something.

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    Originally posted by ottawa coupe
    Those planted seat brackets, the seat belt buckled bolts to them right? Or did you need to fab something up for them?
    Yes, it has a tab for the seat belt latch. I think I had to bend it a little in order to get a nut and bolt on it.




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  • ottawa coupe
    replied
    Those planted seat brackets, the seat belt buckled bolts to them right? Or did you need to fab something up for them?

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  • newsh
    replied
    Originally posted by jbrentd
    Thanks! I'll look for the correct parts, but in the meantime this has fixed the slack in the throttle cable and I'm able to go WOT. It's like driving a totally different car when you have full access to the go pedal.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There you go

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  • jbrentd
    replied
    Thanks! I'll look for the correct parts, but in the meantime this has fixed the slack in the throttle cable and I'm able to go WOT. It's like driving a totally different car when you have full access to the go pedal.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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