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So, before going through the effort of removing and replacing the master cylinder, I thought I would try adjusting the length of the rod at the brake pedal...as suggested by Dan over on TPP. The thought was that maybe the brake pedal was holding pressure against the master cylinder slightly.
When I removed the clevis pin, I could tell the master cylinder was pushing a little on the rod. So, I shortened the rod by 3 full turns of the clevis. The brake pedal now has a very slight amount of play between where the MC is at rest and the brake light and cruise control switches. And it gets taken up by the return spring. I went for a lengthy drive on a warm day and the brakes never did lock up. Hoping this is a good sign.
So, I've had the coupe out for a few runs and everything seems to be doing well...up until the point the engine bay starts to heat up and my brakes start dragging. After things cool down or I spray down the master cylinder with water from a spray bottle, it does release the pressure. It looks like a new MC is in my future, unless anyone knows of a trick to handle this problem. Bad part is, the MC I have was purchased a few years ago, but only has a few miles on it. It was whatever cheap one they had at Rock Auto at the time...Centric iirc. I see 2 options available currently 1)Dynamic Friction for ~$150 or 2)ATE for ~$300.
While I was waiting for things to cool off, I threw on the front bumper and lights. A new windshield and paint for the front bumper are next on my list.
Got tired of waiting for those bushings, so I made some, like Dave suggested.
Work has been crazy busy and the weekends full of non-car-related activities. But I was able to finish up the coilover install.
The first time I set her down, it was too low for me. I wasn't able to get a finger in between the tire and fender.
First adjustment and I have about a finger's width of gap now. We'll see how they settle…I might want a little more clearance.
In the short trips I've taken, the ride quality on these BC coilovers is sooo much better than my DIY coilovers. At this ride height, it rides nice and smooth…thanks to how the ride is adjusted on these (IMO).
Honestly, the problem with the old ones were probably of my own doing. Pretty sure some properly spec'd springs would have made a huge difference. Before I totally removed them, I removed the springs up front and raised the wheel/tire to its ride height. And there was very little travel. That and no bump stops results in a harsh ride.
You can get some extra of those from BC racing, I just ordered 8 more pieces.
Nice. I did get an email from them saying they are sending me some of those. I wonder if they added them to their catalogue...because I had to exchange several emails explaining the issue and that they were for a NA CQ.
Yes, 4 per coilover that have 12mm bolts. BC told me S2's don't need them. So, I would infer that the rear knuckles all have 14mm bolts. US spec CQ's have 12mm bolts on both the front and the rear.
Originally posted by ottawa coupe
I wouldn't get tooooo hung up on this. Get some large od 12mm heavy washers and you'll be fine.
Originally posted by Tractor Dave
When we do stuff like this on the tractor linkage we use a steel bush. It just needs to fit snug in the hole with the correct internal diameter and be the right length so it's flush with flats on the strut.
Yeah, I agree. I was just trying to get them to send me some. I have an Amazon delivery waiting for me when I get home from a work trip. I ordered a 12mm ID / 1mm thickness rod that I plan to cut to length.
When we do stuff like this on the tractor linkage we use a steel bush. It just needs to fit snug in the hole with the correct internal diameter and be the right length so it's flush with flats on the strut.
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