Just read back a bit further you can get away with locking the ring gear and it doesn't damage the crank, but I don't like doing it as 450NM is stupidly tight, glad you got another pulley sorted so you can lock it up properly.
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Some progress made and I’m about ready to door the engine back in.
Buttoned up the engine and landed at 80 ftlb for the head stud torque (ARP). Bolting up the 6 speed from a A6 2.7 TT (01E EDU) requires that one of the location dowels is removed. Hate that but it has to happen. Seems like this swap has been done many times so hopefully that means that the misalignment is not an issue.
I bought the turbo lines from EFI Motorsport (https://shop.efi-motorsport.com/). Very nicely made! Saved me a tone of time sorting it out from scratch...and done cleaner and nicer than I would have. I did run the cooling line behind the timing cover bc I was able to do a little grinding and avoid kinks. Nice and out of the way there.
I added a couple #8 o-rings to the dip stick to push the sealing o-ring down into the bore. That was a pain!
Next up, this engine is going into the car!Attached Files- 7AC56D75-146B-450C-B761-259D3A9E16BF.jpeg (105.2 KB, 332 views)
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Last edited by coultl; 20 January 2023, 18:41.
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A few photos of the Ringer Racing flywheel and clutch.Attached Files- C341BF4D-8FDD-4BA8-B709-5E0DC3B8718B.jpeg (115.2 KB, 314 views)
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It’s been too cold in the garage so I tackled stuff I can do inside. The stock MAF and intake horn are probably fine but no question there’s unneeded restriction there. My standalone uses only MAP so the MAF is not needed. Things I wanted to improve:
- The intake horn in pushed way up against the side of the airbox in order to give the max length to settle the airflow before the sensor. It’s also a pretty small radius horn.
- The internal components of the MAF are actually quite large and (the heat sink especially) and add restriction. That’s minor but the intake and exit screens and major. Flow hates going around round wires.
I 3D printed a MAF blank which is just a copy of the MAF but without any internal restrictions. For the horn, I shortened it a lot and increased the lip diameter/radius a lot too. I also matched the MAF OD with the turbo intake pipe…bc I think it looks better that way. All printer in ASA. Happy to share files.
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A couple quick updates:
The engine is in! Installation was straightforward. The biggest pain was getting slave cylinder installed. There must be a trick that I don’t know for that one.
The larger turbo moved the down pipe flange backward by 15mm or so. This created a few issues. One is that the downpipe is now touching the cv joint shield. I’m going to just let that be and hope the wrap will insulate it enough.
The other issue is that the dump pipe no longer lines up. No idea how this is managed by others who installed this turbo. It’s not even close. I saw this coming and hade a few flanges cut and bought tubing and a flex pipe to make a new dump pipe. In the end I was able to make the stock pipe work while using one of my custom flanges for a spacer. I’ll make my custom dump pipe at some point but this will work for a while.
I finished up the airbox mods with a few 3D printed vents to reduce the restriction of the cold air intake ducting. This way I can keep the stock ducting and get some cold air.
The first start went well. I bolted up the radiator and let it run up to temp. The knock sensor value was much higher than usual at first. A little worrying but it quieted down as the engine came up to temp. Probably due to the lifters being drained combined with the heavy valve springs. Felt get to hear it run again.
I still have a lot of work before it’s back on the road. This includes fitting the Apikol intercooler, water injection system (lots of custom stuff happening with this), electric radiator fan, buttoning it all up…and then the 5 things I’m forgetting.
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More photosAttached Files- 5430C813-1438-42EC-A792-CD6CF0DB1421.jpeg (103.9 KB, 268 views)
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Cracking project this one, I like your 3D printer work, looks factory.
What cambelt is that? I can recall seeing a blue one a long time ago on another US project but can't remember who makes them.1989 B3 2.0 3A 80 quattro... Budget 1.8T Project.
1992 C4 100 2.8 Avant quattro... Mobile Sitting Room.
1995 RS2... MTM K26/7 380 BHP Conversion.
1990 Corrado G60... Breaking For Parts.
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Thanks! Been a fun build. Hope to get on the road this weekend! The belt is a Gates “racing belt”. No idea if it’s better than their standard belt… I bought it from FCP Engineering here: https://fcp-engineering.com/en/other...elt-ts2rb.html
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The car is back on the road. Engine is running well, but with about 50 miles on it, it’s still in break in. Feels great to drive it again!
One issue that came up is that the ECUMaster Black doesn’t seem to be able to reliably read the 135 tooth Audi trigger. Really frustrating bc they say it can. It keeps dropping a tooth which causes a shift in timing and misfires. I talked to others who had the same issue and could not solve it. I tired new crank sensors (Hella) with no change. I put the scope on it and the signal is crystal clear. Tried every possible trigger setting with no luck. Ugh.
So, I drew up a 60-2 trigger wheel for the front crank pulley. I have an idea for how to mount the trigger wheel and sensor which is different and better from what I’ve seen others do…hopefully. I’m going with a hall sensor rather than a VR as I want a nice simple and reliable signal. I’ll share pics and files once that comes together.Attached Files- 9635665D-0F6A-429B-943A-4CFCFDA4D1F7.jpeg (68.4 KB, 243 views)
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Back in the garage to get everything sorted. Up next is wiring the electric fan, wiring water meth injection, wiring cluster with new boost gauge, and moving to a crank pulley mounted timing setup.
ECUMaster won't even write me back. After lots of testing I'm concluding that it just doesn't work with the stock crank trigger setup. In the process I've learned everything there is to know about crank trigger setups, so I guess that's a plus. Ugh.
Ideally I would have gotten a flywheel with a 60-2 trigger machined into it, but I didn't. I tried to save $200 and that was a mistake. I don't want to drop another $1k and pull the engine again, so I'm building a trigger setup on the front crank pulley.
I tried to get clever and mount the trigger wheel to anywhere but the damper mass part of the pulley as I'd rather not have any variance caused by the rubber coupling...but I just couldn't find a way to do it. The serpentine belt tensioner pulley is so close to the crank pulley that there was not way to a wheel in there. The damper rubber is so hard at this point that I wonder if it's doing anything anyway. All in all, it's not the best practice to mount a trigger wheel on the damper mass but it's done often and should be fine.
Here's the plan:
- Trigger wheel: 60-2 laser cut from 4.4mm steel with cutout to neutral balance. Same OD as the crank damper. Fabed for $30 from Send Cut Send. Awesome.
- Wheel mounting: Machine the crank pulley so that the wheel sits flush with the front of the pulley. Mount with M4 countersunk bolts.
- Hall sensor: Went with a hall as a nice clean 5V signal sounds pretty dang nice. Using this sensor. I could switch to a VR sensor pretty easily but that would require a new trigger wheel without the 2 teeth fully missing. No big deal since the wheel is just be bolted on.
- Sensor mounting: This was the tricky part. Lot of geometry to get right and I wanted it mounted very securely. I ended up using three bolts on the oil pump that have a good spread. I plan to print this in ABS and use metal inserts for all bolt holes and threads. I think that will be 5X stronger than it needs to be but I'm still tempted to print it in Aluminum just bc it would be cool to see an aluminum 3d print. Sticking with plastic for now.
I used my 3D scanner (Einstar) to get a scan of the front of the engine. I'm so used to iterating from rough measurements and getting it right after that 10th try. This fit exactly perfectly on the first go. I almost couldn't believe it. Even hall sensor spacing as dead on at 1.5mm. Nuts.
Next up I'll print the final parts for the hall sensor, mount it, get the trigger mounted on the pulley, and then get all this wiring done!
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Also, a few quick notes on the first few hundred miles.
- I ran the break in oil for about 50 miles and medium load town driving. When I changed it there was some tiny metal fragments in the oil filter. Seemed like normal break in stuff.
- With a break in oil out and a some proper oil in, I turned up a boost some but still kept the revs low bc of the timing issue.
- Engine noise as seen by the knock sensors is a lot higher than before the rebuild. I think this is mostly due to the higher lift cams and the stronger valve spring. This will make it harder to see actual knock.
- I'm running E85 on my pump gas map so there shouldn't be any knock and this will allow me to get a new engine noise baseline table setup.
- After 200 miles I checked plugs, scoped the bores, and did a compression check. Everything looks great. No oil leaks visible at this point. The engine is so clean that it would make a leak very visible!
- With timing still needing to get sorted I limited boost to about 220 kpa and revs to about 5k. This was the max boost with the old turbo. The new turbo should allow for 300kps at 4k rpm and about 280 kpa at redline. We'll see.
- It pulls a LOT harder at the same boost level than it did before. I guess this all comes down to a free flowing turbo vs a maxed out stock turbo. Crazy how different it is. Car squats and pull like a train. Enough to make any passenger smile...even though I'm still staying under 5k rpm. Excited to see how it feels at 300 kpa.
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Quick update. I finished up the crank pulley mounted crank position sensor and just need to do some programming to get the ECU setup to read the new signal. Hopefully will be back on the road soon.
I ended up getting the hall sensor machined by HLH in China. It cost only $150 delivered for a part that was never designed to be CNC’d. Crazy! Quality of the finished piece was amazing.
I used a friends lathe to machine the crank pulley and they mounted the trigger wheel which I had cut by Sendcutsend.
I have a lot of other work to complete, but hopefully this will get me back on the road soon.
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