URS6 Build

[coultl]

I'm using an AEM pump and nozzles but the rest is custom. The one thing I hate about MW50 systems is that they are just not reliable enough considering I'll be pulling fuel and adding timing. If I do that and the pump craps out or there's a clog the engine will be kaput in seconds. So, I bought an industrial flow sensor to monitor the fluid flow rate and will program an Arduino to monitor this flow rate. Only when the flow rate is within a specified range will the ECU get the signal to pull fuel and add timing. That's the plan anyway. We'll see how it all comes together! I'll detail here when I start making progress on this.

I also really want to get the custom boost gauge working. That's a lot of Arduino programming and I suck at programming...

[coultl]

Quick update.

- The car is on the road and running great. The new timing setup has been flawless. Feels so good to have clean pulls / no misfires.

- Getting the bumper to fit over the Apikol intercooler required some cutting but nothing too serious. I’m VERY tempted to cut openings in the bumper to get more air to the intercooler and make it look more like a Sport Quattro.

- After a bunch of troubleshooting, the custom gauge is working. It’s powered by an Arduino that gets data from the ECUMaster Black over CAN. Videos here: https://youtu.be/ZjTRC6D3Vsw
https://youtu.be/XPYAwQu61e4

- I machined out the coil cover to clear the red top coils and it fits! I hear the coils will melt without proper ventilation but I’m convinced that others were running way too much dwell and causing the melting. These coils need very little dwell even at 30 psi boost. We’ll see how they hold up.

- Meth injection isn’t setup yet, but I did make a custom mount and installed the pump and solenoid. Getting it all working is next on the list…

- I will post all CAD files, software, and tune files here once I get it organized!

[coultl]

More pics

[89 Coupe]

Your engine bay is sooo clean and still retains the factory look, I like that a lot! You should be really proud

[coultl]

Spent Saturday getting the water methanol setup done. Lots of custom stuff and surprisingly it’s all working.

The setup is pretty typical except I am not using an AEM controlled and am instead controlling the pump with the ECUMaster. I also added an industrial flow meter and the ECU will not pull fuel or add timing unless the flow level is right. More info below.

- AEM pump, solenoid, filter, and injector nozzles. Running two nozzles just after the intercooler, each flowing 500 cc/min. Running 50/50 mix in the washer reservoir. Awesome that our cars have a huge washer reservoir.

- The ECU turns the pump on when boost is over 170 kpa.

- The flow sensor sends a pulsed signal to an Arduino that runs code to convert this signal to a PWM output. The speed of the pulses matches the flow rate. That PWM is then run through a simple low pass filter to convert the PEM to an analog voltage. 0V = 0 cc/min, 5V = 1600 cc/min.

- When working properly the flow rate is 1000 cc/min. This was confirmed by running the nozzles into a jar for 60 seconds. If there is a break in a hose the flow rate will increase from 1000 cc/min to 1500 cc/min.

- The ECU reads the analog voltage and only advances the timing and pulls fuel if the flow rate is over 800 cc/min and under 1200 cc/min. This is all to avoid a situation where the system is clogged or leaking and the engine grandes bc the timing is too advanced and the engine is leaned out.

More importantly it feels great on the road. I can’t tell if it’s making any more power but pulls out or 8k are so smooth and solid. IATs are very low. Pumped to finally have this done.

[coultl]

I've been mostly just driving and enjoying the car, but have made a few changes that I'll share.

First, the gas and E85 tune feel pretty dialed. Good drivability, cold start, etc. My EGTs on gas are high, but that's probably mostly the result of where my sensor is located and all the boost I'm running. I used the app PerfExpert to get a basic idea of that power curve. I also used it on my other cars and it seems pretty damn accurate.

The app is showing something like 470 whp / 550 crank hp. Seems high but possible. This is running E85 with water meth injection. I peak at 31 psi boost and taper to 25 psi at 7,800. Peak power is at ~7000 rpm.

[coultl]

I also updated the wheels to Sparco Pro Corsa wheels. 18X8 ET35. They look pretty aggressive but I think it fits the car.

[coultl]

Lastly, the breather system absolutely could not handle the boost. I did a leak down and the rings/bores are in great shape. 5% or less leak down. That's not the issue. Even with good sealing there's just too much air volume at this boost level for the stock breather to handle.

This showed up when I had a drive on boost and then shut the car down. When I restarted I'd get a huge cloud of smoke. Couldn't figure it out but eventually found the oil in the intake.

Here's what I did:
- Installed a breather puck from EFI Motorsport on the block
- Installed a Mann Provent separator / catch can
- Routed the Provent exit back to the factor piping into the intake (trying to keep things stock(ish))
- Routed the Provent drain back to the sump

This entirely fixed the issue. I no longer get any smoke on startup. It was a bit of a pain to piece together but 100% necessary.

[coultl]

I also found that ITG makes filters for this car. Crazy. I used to use them when I modified Mercedes and Porsche cars. Love their filers. Probably adds about 0.01 hp but worth it. Ha.

[coultl]

I got a question so I figured I'd share here:

"I'm following down the path you started with emu black. I'm a little lost in the settings for knock detection though. I set the frequency to 7.1kHz (82mm pistons), but I'm not sure where to set the gain or what the integrator settings do. I'm pretty sure I've got a handle on the MAP vs. RPM voltage table, but getting it fed with reasonable input is where I'm stuck. Any input would be appreciated."

Here's my latest file:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/0malf...956v8orhv&dl=0

NOTE: There's a lot in there that won't be applicable to other builds including settings for my unique crank sensor, and settings for methanol injection (used the nitrous settings) that could cause damage. If you just run this file you're likely to blow your engine up. That said, I think the knock settings are decent.

The integrator is basically how much the signal is smoothed and the value I used was sourced from a few reputable spots. I think it's good.

The gain is basically just a volume knob. The higher the number the more amplified the signal will be. You really just want to make sure you don't max out the signal. I adjusted my gain so that my max normal (no knock) signal was about half way up the scale. If you change the gain you must also change the engine noise table values.

As for the engine noise table values, I set these by running fairly conservative timing (pulled back about 3 degrees from typical peak power values) on E85. That way, I know there is no knock. Those logs told me what the base engine noise would be. I set the knock threshold pretty close to those values so I get a good bit of reported knock. It just pulls a few degrees of timing for a few seconds and I'd rather be on the conservative side.

An interesting note here. After my engine rebuild, my base noise went way up. I think this was due increase valvetrain noise from the 7A cams (higher lift) and the high rate valve springs. Just goes to show that engine noise needs to be determined for YOUR engine.

[Jehannum505]

Thanks!

As for the engine noise table values, I set these by running fairly conservative timing (pulled back about 3 degrees from typical peak power values) on E85. That way, I know there is no knock. Those logs told me what the base engine noise would be. I set the knock threshold pretty close to those values so I get a good bit of reported knock. It just pulls a few degrees of timing for a few seconds and I'd rather be on the conservative side.

That's clever. I'm set up for flex fuel enrichment but haven't dyno tuned for it yet, so I think I'll set up my engine noise table this way.

An interesting note here. After my engine rebuild, my base noise went way up. I think this was due increase valvetrain noise from the 7A cams (higher lift) and the high rate valve springs. Just goes to show that engine noise needs to be determined for YOUR engine.

I also am running 7A cams.

[booested4door]

that boost gauge is super badass man!! very well done!