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Our tandem brake booster conversion kit allows you to fit a modern and much more powerful tandem (dual stage) brake booster to your UR quattro or other B2 platform car. Our kit includesServo adapter bracket machined from 6082 T6 & hard anodised to 40μmExtended pedal clevis machined from 34CrNiMo6 / 4340 / EN24T & zinc di-chromated for corrosion resistanceHigh tensile booster fixingsM12x1 SAE brake line fittings for 4.75mm / 3/16 (standard size) brake linesBrake fluid reservoir level sensor connector & terminalsFixings In addition you will need:A suitable tandem booster, master cylinder and reservoir. We supply new TRW (OEM) parts to complete this conversion.Suitable factory boosters can be taken from the following model platforms: B6, B7, B8, C6, C5 RS6, C6, C7, D3.Please note that there a HUGE number of different variants aross various markets and territories; it is not possible for us to provide fitment confirmation of every combination - therefore we strongly recommend choosing componets from the C6 A6 platform due to availability, low cost and gauranteed compatiblity across all territories.It is important to take the booster & master cylinder from the same model variant - mix & match combinations of components is not advise as not all are compatible. Special information for RHD UR quattro ModelsWe have a speciic kit to fit right hand drive UR quattro models: RHD UR quattro Tandem Brake Booster Converion Kit
TRW (OEM) 26.99mm master cylinder to suit our tandem booster conversion, as fitted to many contemporary high performance Audis such as the RS4 & RS6.We recommend this larger master cylinder if you have big brakes with a piston area significantly larger than standard. This larger master cylinder diameter moves more fluid per stroke and will restore a short pedal travel and firm pedal feel.Supplied with reservoir seals and main booster face seal.
Alex, the owner of Ultra is a well known member here on the forum
Thanks Varia..
Why is all the good stuff always in the UK or Europe.....
Our tandem brake booster conversion kit allows you to fit a modern and much more powerful tandem (dual stage) brake booster to your UR quattro or other B2 platform car. Our kit includesServo adapter bracket machined from 6082 T6 & hard anodised to 40μmExtended pedal clevis machined from 34CrNiMo6 / 4340 / EN24T & zinc di-chromated for corrosion resistanceHigh tensile booster fixingsM12x1 SAE brake line fittings for 4.75mm / 3/16 (standard size) brake linesBrake fluid reservoir level sensor connector & terminalsFixings In addition you will need:A suitable tandem booster, master cylinder and reservoir. We supply new TRW (OEM) parts to complete this conversion.Suitable factory boosters can be taken from the following model platforms: B6, B7, B8, C6, C5 RS6, C6, C7, D3.Please note that there a HUGE number of different variants aross various markets and territories; it is not possible for us to provide fitment confirmation of every combination - therefore we strongly recommend choosing componets from the C6 A6 platform due to availability, low cost and gauranteed compatiblity across all territories.It is important to take the booster & master cylinder from the same model variant - mix & match combinations of components is not advise as not all are compatible. Special information for RHD UR quattro ModelsWe have a speciic kit to fit right hand drive UR quattro models: RHD UR quattro Tandem Brake Booster Converion Kit
TRW (OEM) 26.99mm master cylinder to suit our tandem booster conversion, as fitted to many contemporary high performance Audis such as the RS4 & RS6.We recommend this larger master cylinder if you have big brakes with a piston area significantly larger than standard. This larger master cylinder diameter moves more fluid per stroke and will restore a short pedal travel and firm pedal feel.Supplied with reservoir seals and main booster face seal.
Alex, the owner of Ultra is a well known member here on the forum
Installed rebuilt steering rack by Quality Remanufacturing, new clutch master cylinder, 1986 Coupe GT brake booster with new master cylinder. The GT booster is suppose to be a better booster than the stock one.
Prepped the engine compartment for paint, so I can install sub frame and trans while waiting for the engine to be finished. I didn't find any new rust, which was nice. I replaced some seam sealer and used a metal itching primer for added security. I am doing a color change to Alpine White.
Jeff who is building the motor, just shared that, the head and block is decked , bored and honed and main saddles line honed. Ready to assemble as soon as crank rotating assembly is balanced.
Just finished another messy job of greasing and building the CV's & axles. With the added engine Hp, the 6 speed 0E1 trans has had upgrades along with the rear diff. I purchased massive axles that came from Adrius Power in Poland, supposedly the axles are made from old Russian tanks and can handle 1,000 plus hp. My Verkline sub frames, hubs, trans / diff cups are all setup for S2 CV's which are bigger and can handle more Hp. Problem is they are not sold in the USA and none of the companies in Europe want to ship, so thankfully my friends at Walkers Garage in the UK, were kind enough to purchase and ship to me.
Thanks for the info on the Dupli Colour - I will see what I can find in our auto parts shop...I havent got the energy or kit to drop the engine out so will wire brush off the worst of it etc
I build my cars to be used every day with comforts and also have performance. With that said, I purchased a very nice set of Audi A3 Sport seats out of a 2016.
The seats are fully adjustable electronically, and are heated. The A3 seats are a tight fit, but work perfectly. I had to cut out the stock mounts and fabricate new mounts for the seats......I am very happy with the install.
How did you clean off all the old horrible black coating eg by hand or some kind of power tool?
Next to rust repair, absolutely the worst job is by far the tar coating removal. The coating for the most part is still in very good shape, so I use a wire wheel on the end of a drill which takes it off and then use a air sander with 60 grit to go over the metal. Its a messy job for sure.
This a great pic and very timely as I have my 20V in the engine bay with ancillaries removed and its very rusty. What / how did you prepare the block and then what did you use to paint it? Thanks Paul
Hi Paul,
Jeff mandated that the motor be hot tanked / cleaned of all oil etc. so I tore the engine apart and did some of the parts in my own clean tank and took the rest of the components to automotive engine shop locally and they did the cleaning. Afterwards, I used a Dupli automotive engine block paint, which is really amazing stuff and dries fast. I am very happy with how the block came out.
After finishing the rust repair, I wired brushed any areas where the undercoating was nicked and used a sealer/undercoating to patch the areas and then sprayed the entire bottom with a undercoating.
How did you clean off all the old horrible black coating eg by hand or some kind of power tool?
This a great pic and very timely as I have my 20V in the engine bay with ancillaries removed and its very rusty. What / how did you prepare the block and then what did you use to paint it? Thanks Paul
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