S2 Coupe Down Under

[RedV6]

I'd say there is probably no way to be sure without running it at idle. I would just try it and monitor the pressure with a gauge.

[Tractor Dave]

Did you say previously that you are fitting a Pierburg Rs2 pump? If so, the standard fpr will be fine. High hp pumps tend to flow quicker rather that have a much higher pressure.

[Tractor Dave]

error. Wrong thread.

[Solfella]

Did you say previously that you are fitting a Pierburg Rs2 pump? If so, the standard fpr will be fine. High hp pumps tend to flow quicker rather that have a much higher pressure.

I did Dave - not the wrong thread - perhaps I should have posted it in my other thread. My logic was that the FPR would handle things, just making sure really. As it happens, I changed to a Walbro and that is now in and running. Thank you.

[Solfella]

Went ahead with extracting the basket and installing a Walbro 450. Set out to make some form of basket removal tool following this description and advice in Rusty's forum thread. Went with bits of PVC pipe and stuff I had laying around. No where near as neat or elegant, but it made the job pretty easy really. The Walbro doesn't have a mesh filter on the intake like the Bosch pump does and comes with an external filter sock. Not shown in the photos, I didn't use the sock as in Rusty's thread, instead repurposing the micro-mesh piece from the top of an old basket and fitting that to the Walbro intake so it sits inside the main filter basket, thus retaining the original basket mesh. Had to fettle the inside of the new basket to get the pump and its additional filter sitting low enough. All in and working.

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[Solfella]

STILL waiting for my windscreen to arrive from Europe - apparently end of August/early September at the earliest due to summer factory shutdowns - so amusing myself with other jobs.

Set about reinstalling the headlining. After breaking one of the front sunroof clips, I got a 3D printed one from Kustom 3D Prototyping

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And fitted the sunroof and main liner. Doing this on my own I found the easiest way was to use two clamps to hold the liner up while I connected the metal ring that clips around the sunroof aperture. This also allowed me to get the liner far enough forward as I found it was easy to have it a few millimetres too far to the rear to have the ring connect to the aperture clips. I fitted the sun visor clips to secure the front edge of the liner only after I had fitted the sunroof aperture ring and it was where I wanted it.

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Overall pretty pleased with the result. I covered the headliner myself. Not the easiest job and in retrospect, one for the professionals but I was keen to give it a go. This video helped quite a bit. Leaving the trims out for the time being.

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One of the hardest things was straightening out the tabs on the metal retaining rings for the rear light and front panel. Lots of careful manipulation, pliers and a vice were used.

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More form Kustom 3D Prototyping to repair the broken clips on the front panel

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And made use of a plastic welder/stapler to take care of some cracks appearing in the rear trim of the headliner. It's just a cheap one form AliExpress but I've made use of it on all sorts of projects.

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Next on the list are relays for the headlights and HIDs for the projectors, and trying to sort out the loss of main beam when on full beam. I've read around that on the forum and looks like my car is one of the ones that has that particular quirk, so I'll be looking into the wiring of the block to the stalks or using diodes or something.

[Solfella]

Did you say previously that you are fitting a Pierburg Rs2 pump? If so, the standard fpr will be fine. High hp pumps tend to flow quicker rather that have a much higher pressure.

So here's a thing - the Walbro is in and running but on road testing I found that boost of about 10lbs/0.6 bar started to produce a noticeable misfire. No problems if not stomping on the gas. I'm guessing this will be resolved once I go to engine mods/tune, but was wondering if this might be the FPR being overwhelmed and not returning enough fuel flow to the tank.

[Nuvo]

You've done a nice job on the headlining.
Did you buy the Headlining Secrets eBook as well from Youtube link you posted? I'd be interested to know how you rate it if you did.

[Tractor Dave]

So here's a thing - the Walbro is in and running but on road testing I found that boost of about 10lbs/0.6 bar started to produce a noticeable misfire. No problems if not stomping on the gas. I'm guessing this will be resolved once I go to engine mods/tune, but was wondering if this might be the FPR being overwhelmed and not returning enough fuel flow to the tank.

I would be very surprised if thats the case. When you say mis fire, do you mean boost cut?

[Solfella]

I would be very surprised if thats the case. When you say mis fire, do you mean boost cut?

That's a good question and short answer is I don't know but could be I guess. I didn't notice any drop on the boost gauge. I was suspecting a fuel pump/FPR issue as it was the last thing I did. I could swap back to the Bosch of course. That said, I haven't got the VAGCOM out yet.

[Solfella]

You've done a nice job on the headlining.
Did you buy the Headlining Secrets eBook as well from Youtube link you posted? I'd be interested to know how you rate it if you did.

Thank you - I din't buy the book. Perhaps should have for $10, but I looked at a few of his other videos too. It was tricky to get the fabric to sit right in a few places and I ended up with one small crease under a sun visor. It'll annoy me until it doesn't.

[david1980]

You have to move one wire on the back of the stalk to keep the projector illuminated when the high beams are on.

[Solfella]

Set about wiring in relays for the headlights to bypass the weak factory wiring, and to resolve the main beams going out when high beam was on. Went with a DNI8135 two-in-one relay, taking power from the starter motor and grounding on the earthing point just below the ABS unit.

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Retained the original headlight connectors, bridging between the left and right headlights, and connecting the main beam and high beam, with heavier wiring back to the high power side of the relay.


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Disconnected and terminated all but the parking/side light wiring from the RH side of the car. The original wires, here yellow, white, and brown, have their ends shrink wrapped and are tucked back into the loom insulation.

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Did a similar thing on the LH side but extended and utilised the original high and low beam feeds as triggers for the low power side of the relay, fitting a 1A diode between the terminals such that when the high beam is triggered, it also sends power to the low beam side. The diode is in the green heat shrink wrap.

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Finished by attaching the relay with VHB tape to the power steering tank - this may change but it was a convenient location for now.


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A but fiddly to do but very pleased with the result and I now have main beam headlights operating while full beam is on, and now HID ready. Planning on using 35W HIDs in the projectors only.

I know the high/low beam issue can be fixed by moving the yellow wire in the block at the stalk but I wanted to beef up the headlight wiring anyway and it was easy to insert the diode as described seeing as I was there already. The outcome is the same.

[Solfella]

That's a good question and short answer is I don't know but could be I guess. I didn't notice any drop on the boost gauge. I was suspecting a fuel pump/FPR issue as it was the last thing I did. I could swap back to the Bosch of course. That said, I haven't got the VAGCOM out yet.

No fault codes on the VAGCOM as far as I can see.

[Solfella]

I would be very surprised if thats the case. When you say mis fire, do you mean boost cut?

Interesting thing Dave - now I can swap fuel pumps with relative ease, I put the stock Bosch back in today and everything is back to normal . Looks like I'll be saving the Walbro until I do any mods. I can only assume it was overwhelming the FPR.