My Audi S2 600Hp+ project 56k warning

[G60Rallye]

Liking the set up in the boot it looks mad! Not too sure about the rear spoiler though mate?

[terrybullwon]

Haha!!!

Yes Aaron it's pretty Small hehe

[speeding-g60]

Your rad looks like twice the size of mine and your rad exit is in a really good low pressure zone which will be better.

James, your radiator is rather largish.

[s2_bo]

Sorry Baz nothing.

But it works, and i'll ask him when i see him next.

Yeah the rolling road issue............. I might make the hole in the rear even larger and have the dyno fan blow to the rear of the car and remove the collection chamber?

Cant you just spray some liquid nitrogen in the ducts during the dyno runs? That should keep the rads cool.

Looks great btw!

[terrybullwon]

Keep me updated James.

I'll let you know how i get on next year, also i'll be trying to do a bit of drifting

Baz that will be very interesting in your shorter wheel base quattro

[gnutz2]

Keep me updated James.

I'll let you know how i get on next year, also i'll be trying to do a bit of drifting

[terrybullwon]

This is intresting James, the bypass is only about 12mm diameter so will not pass a lot of water. But my thought is it's better not to mix any hot water with cold and vice versa.

Out of intrest do you have pics of the ducting setup in the car that was cooling good?

Another point is when you want to tune your car on a rolling road. I had to temporarily mount a rad on the front of the car to do the tuning.

Sorry Baz nothing.

But it works, and i'll ask him when i see him next.

Yeah the rolling road issue............. I might make the hole in the rear even larger and have the dyno fan blow to the rear of the car and remove the collection chamber?

[gnutz2]

This is intresting James, the bypass is only about 12mm diameter so will not pass a lot of water. But my thought is it's better not to mix any hot water with cold and vice versa.

Out of intrest do you have pics of the ducting setup in the car that was cooling good?

Another point is when you want to tune your car on a rolling road. I had to temporarily mount a rad on the front of the car to do the tuning.

[terrybullwon]

Either way james it's the same, the passage connects the block to the head.

I welded a spring and plate to a gutted thermostat with the plate pushing on the hole in the block when fitted.

Also, just wondering why your reversing the coolant path and going in the head?

That was the best way to route my pipe work. I spoke to some one else who has a really well working set up in a high powered coupe and he never blocked the hole to the head so i doubt i will either. The fans only then needed to be used at a stop and infact he has alot less ducting.

[gnutz2]

Either way james it's the same, the passage connects the block to the head.

I welded a spring and plate to a gutted thermostat with the plate pushing on the hole in the block when fitted.

Also, just wondering why your reversing the coolant path and going in the head?

[terrybullwon]

Um... yes i see what you mean about the return to the head. Did you just turn something from aluminum?

Edit saying that,

I am exiting the thermo stat housing and returning to the head thus making it a one way system?

[gnutz2]

You'll need to plug the hole that sits directly behind where the thermostat sits. This hole leads to the head and recirculates water until the thermostat opens and also closes the bypass hole

My fans run all the time and so does the water pump.

IMO side pods are a good solution to getting high pressure air into the rad.

[terrybullwon]

Good work James.

Did you actually take the thermostat out? because if you did you will need to make a blanking plate for the coolant bypass passage inbetween the head and block. Otherwise you will be sending hot water back into the engine instead of the rad.

Also i'm not finding my rear end rad setup very effective. I mostly blame this on the naca ducts not offering enough high pressure air to the rad. Your rad looks like twice the size of mine and your rad exit is in a really good low pressure zone which will be better.

I run the standard water pump with no thermostat and an 80l/m electric pump alongside.

My rad is 600mm x 300mm x 50mm, running 32mm od alloy water pipes to the boot and 4" ducting from the 4 naca ducts to the rad. I also have two 12" fans.

I will also be mounting another rad in the front of my car to hopefully keep things cool for a track day.

Also a really big spanwise twist wing would look really good on the back and give a lot more downforce than a regular wing and probably pull more air from the rad too.

like this

Thanks Baz,

Yes i must admit i have been looking at other wings from the BTCC, your rad is QUITE alot smaller than mine and the pump flows less i am at the 40 Gallon a minute mark. I took the wings off my pump and removed the thermostat also. So fingers crossed!

Also you used a ramp in yours?

Did you run your fans constant at idle?

[gnutz2]

Good work James.

Did you actually take the thermostat out? because if you did you will need to make a blanking plate for the coolant bypass passage inbetween the head and block. Otherwise you will be sending hot water back into the engine instead of the rad.

Also i'm not finding my rear end rad setup very effective. I mostly blame this on the naca ducts not offering enough high pressure air to the rad. Your rad looks like twice the size of mine and your rad exit is in a really good low pressure zone which will be better.

I run the standard water pump with no thermostat and an 80l/m electric pump alongside.

My rad is 600mm x 300mm x 50mm, running 32mm od alloy water pipes to the boot and 4" ducting from the 4 naca ducts to the rad. I also have two 12" fans.

I will also be mounting another rad in the front of my car to hopefully keep things cool for a track day.

Also a really big spanwise twist wing would look really good on the back and give a lot more downforce than a regular wing and probably pull more air from the rad too.

like this

[Acidburn]

Looking good james, i'll have to pop down soon