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  • No more frothy oil!

    It's been a while since I gave an update...A few of you might remember the problem I was having with foaming oil in my freshly rebuilt 3B motor. Well I can now say I'm cautiously optimistic about the state of my conversion. This past weekend I pulled the oil pan off (hopefully for the last time!), replaced the suction tube with the old one from the 7A, replaced the oil pump, put on a new filter and filled it with 15-40 oil. Despite still getting the oil pressure warning (I'm positive it's an electrical glitch) I nervously let the engine run for about ten minutes - its longest stint to date. Oil pressure on the gauge showed a normal 5 bar, as always. Shut it down, waited a minute and checked the oil. To my pleasant surprise, the oil looked normal! No more foam or froth. Now I don't know whether it was the pump, pick up tube, filter, the fact that I let it run for a while or a combination of all of the above. Needless to say, I'm pleased at the outcome. My only hesitation comes from the fact that I didn't like the way the lifters were sounding. More ticking than I think is normal. I could be paranoid of course, but I'd still like to have a mechanic have a listen before I take it for its first boot. Could it be that the lifters still have a bit of air in them and it just might take a while before it's all worked out? A mechanic told me that it sometimes can take 30-40 km's of driving before all the air is worked out of a freshly rebuilt engine.
    The other minor worry was that I was starting to see light smoke coming from the exhaust manifold and turbo area. I think I can attribute this to some of the fresh paint heating up and burning off of the exhaust parts and engine block. Anyone else experience this?

    Another glitch is that my cooling fan won't come on when it's supposed to. I let the engine get up to about 90c on the gauge and no fan. It proceeded to get to about 105 and still no fan. However, if I turned the climate control to Auto the fan would kick in. Just another thing I need to look into.

    Ben
    Ben
    Calgary, Alberta
    Canada
    1991 CQ e//S2 w/ RS2 spec 3B 20vt
    Panther Black Metallic
    www.moda-architecture.ca

  • #2
    do you use org oilfilter.......???if you have tick,tick from your hydlifters,the may gone.by some new one,or rebuild it to meclifters.use old cups from vag rabbits,or from volvo b200k or diesel 2,4d6 volvo/vag engines ....they have 31mm shimm in it

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    • #3
      Does the gauge go to 5 Bar straight away and stay there? Does the oil warning light always come on? If so, you probably have the gauge wires the wrong way round on the guage pressure sender - I did that on my last build - it confused me becasue the gauge shot upto 5Bar but the oil warning came on.

      And a few tappets were noisey until the car warmed up and was driven(just the first time - they have been quiet since).
      S2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8

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      • #4
        I think you have an air lock in your cooling system which is causing the problem, i had exactly the same thing the last time i had the head off. i just took it for a drive and it cleared itself straight away.
        think noisey tappets are normal after a strip down, they should be fine after a few miles.

        martin

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        • #5
          Tappets can be noisy for ages after this sort off work, dont worry about it. Take it for a gentle run and just see how you get on. It should disappear. The smoke is normal when it gets really hot then it will smoke like mad!! Once all the oil/fresh paint if burnt away it will stop smoking.
          sigpic
          Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
          Audi UR Quattro
          Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
          Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
          Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm

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