My S2 coupe

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • TimE-J
    replied
    Also, while I was removing the clutch and flywheel I noticed that there is a little scoring and heat marks so any suggestions on a clutch flywheel setup?

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Picked up an engine crane and another engine stand off Add yesterday so after work this evening I set about removing the engine.





    I'll carry on stripping more of the block now that its on the stand in between other job that I've got on at my unit tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Haha thanks its not that big but its perfect for what I'm doing up there, I'll try and get some better pictures of it.

    As far as the engine goes I'm just going to replace the shell bearings and rod bolts with some new gaskets and just a general check over because to be honest I cant afford to do anything else to it at the moment and the suspension to me is more important than engine mods.

    I will try and fit the large intercooler and pipe work that I have and try and get some silicone pipes in the bay but that will probably be it till the suspensions all done and dusted.

    Leave a comment:


  • andy10v
    replied
    How far are you going to dig into the engine?

    That looks like a nice unit, jealous of the space around your car.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Yes the spacer plate is there, I'll have a proper look at it as soon as the engine and box is out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rusty
    replied
    Might be an aftermarket flywheel Are you running the gearbox spacer between bell housing and block - it should be obvious as it's about 8mm thick.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Little more done today as I've taken the first half of the week off so today I set about taking the big ends out and inspecting for damage. I'm happy to say that there seems to be no visible damage to either the bearings or crank cause but oil loss but normal visible wear from 172k miles on the clock, as far as I know they're original because of the date stamp on the back of the shells.

    Got some prices of replacement bearings and bolts today from Ben at Coventry TPS (Thanks again!)

    I've decided that while I'm close to a nearly stripped engine I've decided to pull the engine and box out so it can be properly cleaned and checked over and saves me replacing the shells upside down on my back. Tonight I also made a start on striping the auxiliaries off the engine ready for removal such the down pipe and most of the birds nest of winging harness and connectors.

    Just a picture of the big end shells as we all like pictures in build threads.


    Also when I was having a look around the engine I noticed some welds on the flywheel. As I've never seen an ABY flywheel up close I don't know whether its how it should be but is the ring gear supposed to be welded to the flywheel? Most I've seen are usually heated and shrunk onto the flywheel and this is how I've always replaced them in work?



    More updates soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Managed to get abit more done today, but now I'm going to need some advice from yourselves about the main shell bearings.

    after dropping the subframe and sump I removed the main bearing caps and gave them a quick clean along with the crank and took some pictures so that I can get your opinion on the possible damage. Unfortunately I only managed to get 5 of the 5 caps off tonight as the 6th as far as I can tell requires the removal of the crank oil seal plate.

    Cap 1.

    Crank 1.


    Cap 2.

    Crank 2.


    Cap 3.

    Crank 3.


    Cap 4.

    Crank 4.


    Cap 5.

    Crank 5.


    As you can probably see from the photos that there is a very small score like stripe on cap 4 and a slightly more noticeable score mark on cap 5.

    These look more like marks made from a small piece of swarf that has been in the oil and not from lack of oil damage.
    Also I can't see any marks on the crank so I'm just wondering what all your opinions are on what my next steps should be with the bottom end.

    Thanks,

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Didn't end up doing as much as I had hoped today due to chasing a water leak on a mk4 golf.
    Managed to get the rest of the manifold off and dried and cleaned some more of the engine bay, got it jacked up then ended up cleaning the wheels as they've been sat with brake dust on them for awhile now.

    Also bought a free standing 10 ton press so I've had to delay the parts alittle longer.

    Anyway some more pics of todays progress.


    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Work began this week started off with stripping bits of the engine bay down just to have a good look round and see what needs replacing.



    Last night and today I carried on stripping bits off like the inlet manifold and rad off to give the engine bay and engine a proper clean so pushed the s2 out of the unit and got the jetwash out with some industrial cleaner

    Only got a few pictures after the car was pushed back in.




    Now that I've cleaned the engine area down and got rid of most of the hydraulic oil that seemed to be EVERYWHERE, the suspension strip down can begin.
    Plans for tomorrow are to jack the car up on stands and start to remove the suspension so that while i'm waiting for cash to build up for the parts I can strip and clean subframes and so on ready for the bushes and mounts.

    I'll try and take a better camera with me tomorrow instead of using my crappy Iphone.

    Leave a comment:


  • andy10v
    replied
    Originally posted by TimE-J

    Is it worth checking the big end shells aswel? I know the oil has to go through the main ends first.
    If you are checking the mains it is very little extra effort to check the big ends.

    No. 3 big end is normally the first to go in an oil loss event according to Phil Payne in an engine failure thread on here, so probably the one to check first. It was the most destroyed in a failed engine I had.

    You can get platigauge if you want to check whilst you are in there.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Ok great thanks for the info, I dont mean to sound like I dont have a clue but I dont have much experience in cranks, mechanic by trade but we only seem to strip and rebuild heads or change engines.

    It was showing alittle over 0.5 bar and it didnt leave any oil on the road only in the undertray and then a puddle when the car came to a stop!

    Is it worth checking the big end shells aswel? I know the oil has to go through the main ends first.

    Leave a comment:


  • AndyP
    replied
    Originally posted by TimE-J
    Thanks for the heads up, like I said the car is coming off the road for a few months so I'll just add that job to the list.

    Is it worth checking main and big ends, or is that a bit of a daft question?

    Also worst case scenario and there is wear/score marks on the shells and on the crank, how salvageable normally are the cranks?

    Any info would be much appreciated.

    Also just as a note, when the cooler blew and when the engine was switched off it was still showing over half a bar of pressure.
    If it was still showing pressure you might have got away with it. It's it's only lightly marked you could just get it polished, if it's too deep to polish out it's a re-grind and a set of oversize shells. It would have to be really bad to scrap the crank.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Got the s2 to my unit today after work so just thought id add a photo of it in its new home for the next few months.



    Leave a comment:


  • TimE-J
    replied
    Thanks for the heads up, like I said the car is coming off the road for a few months so I'll just add that job to the list.

    Is it worth checking main and big ends, or is that a bit of a daft question?

    Also worst case scenario and there is wear/score marks on the shells and on the crank, how salvageable normally are the cranks?

    Any info would be much appreciated.

    Also just as a note, when the cooler blew and when the engine was switched off it was still showing over half a bar of pressure.

    Leave a comment:

Working...