that 20vt 200....

[dspl1236]

So I have had this 3b 200 now for a while and it broke down on me back in June.

2am 250mi from home I downshifted hard into 3rd from 5th, driveline jerked, hesitation...then it just shut off with no noise.



was cheaper....



I have had a head headgasket starting to fail on me...so i did that.







nice to have a spare block on an engine stand to put the head on.








has new dizzy with metal gear, i never pulled the dizzy or plug wires from the cap. errrrverything is in time checked and checked 10 times. new oem o2 and new mtfs as well.

No spark. No Start. Pulled codes for a crank trigger...swapped a nice set of just pulled from running car...no start same codes. swap sensors around, same code no start. checked for flywheel pin...its there and verified by a motorgeek member and tried with 2nd ecu. went as far as pluging in the crank trigger on the tach feed and repin the ecu to use the tach feed...same code no start spark.



now it just sits


suggestions?

[Pirvu Eugen]

Are you sure the distributor is not 180 degrees off?
Just a thought!

[dspl1236]

Are you sure the distributor is not 180 degrees off?
Just a thought!

ill check it again, but i am sure when i was with nuugen from motorgeek we checked that....but ya ill check it again. oh ya, all fuses are good.

[prj]

Can you connect to ECU with VAG-COM with ignition on?

[dspl1236]

Can you connect to ECU with VAG-COM with ignition on?

ya thats how i have been pulling codes and clearing ecu in between

what you want me to check?

[prj]

Ok, and you have no start and no codes?
EDIT: See you have code.

Can you give exact code please?

[Pirvu Eugen]

I got one timing sensor plug with the wire broken behind the rubber boot... Check that also...

[prj]

Yup if you have Crankshaft Position Sensor - No Signal, then do a continuity and resistance check to it from the Motronic connector.

[UrS4boy]

So I have had this 3b 200 now for a while and it broke down on me back in June.No spark. No Start. ..... went as far as pluging in the crank trigger on the tach feed and repin the ecu to use the tach feed...same code no start spark. suggestions?

I would have been surprized that your pin swap trick would have worked since the frequency of the two signals from the G4 crank position sender and the G28 engine speed sensor are completely different, e.g. 1/rev vs. 137/rev.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20986.phtml

Assuming that the 3B ECU behaves similarly to the AAN, ABY and ADU ECUs, before the engine is given spark to start, the ECU needs good signals from the G28 engine speed sender (to trigger the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump), the G4 crank position sender and the G40 Cam Position Hall Sender.

Since you have not shared the codes you have seen and cancelled, it is difficult for us to help you with missing info. That said, you have not mentioned checking the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump to make sure that they are working. Also you have made no mention of the G40 Hall sender in the distributor. Without the G40 working, you will never start the engine again. You might want to check it. (Sometimes they fail without throwing codes). Here is some general G40 info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

Here is some info on replacing a Hall sender in such a distributor:

http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheHallSenderInA7A3BandEarlyAANDistributor.pdf

Your story, with everything going pear-shaped after a 5 to 3 down shift leads me to wonder about a) over revving and b) something mechanical breaking, e.g. the dizzy drive gear on the end of the intake cam and/or the dizzy gear itself or ???

The 3B drive gear is shown on the right side of this photo (the left side one is a pre-Feb 92 UrS4 AAN drive gear):

[dspl1236]

I would have been surprized that your pin swap trick would have worked since the frequency of the two signals from the G4 crank position sender and the G28 engine speed sensor are completely different, e.g. 1/rev vs. 137/rev.

Yes, but the sensors are the same, so you can give it any input. if i disconnect the engine speed, it gives me two codes then. so i know the wireing swap and the repin worked.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20986.phtml

Assuming that the 3B ECU behaves similarly to the AAN, ABY and ADU ECUs, before the engine is given spark to start, the ECU needs good signals from the G28 engine speed sender (to trigger the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump), the G4 crank position sender and the G40 Cam Position Hall Sender.

Since you have not shared the codes you have seen and cancelled, it is difficult for us to help you with missing info. That said, you have not mentioned checking the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump to make sure that they are working. Also you have made no mention of the G40 Hall sender in the distributor. Without the G40 working, you will never start the engine again. You might want to check it. (Sometimes they fail without throwing codes). Here is some general G40 info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

new metal gear'd distributor from dealer in the last 20k(ill check the wireing and related test). fuel pump works.... just pumped 16gal of 93 out for my 90 before it gets too old. also have a few pump relays as spares. new fuel filter in last 20k

Here is some info on replacing a Hall sender in such a distributor:

http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheHallSenderInA7A3BandEarlyAANDistributor.pdf

Your story, with everything going pear-shaped after a 5 to 3 down shift leads me to wonder about a) over revving and b) something mechanical breaking, e.g. the dizzy drive gear on the end of the intake cam and/or the dizzy gear itself or ???

only was a 65mph downshift for a nice down hill pull. was on way home from a work trip to install new driveshaft support bearing and new trans mounts since they all had failed. (why it was kinda of a hard downshift) gear on cam and dizzy are intact from when i had the head off.

The 3B drive gear is shown on the right side of this photo (the left side one is a pre-Feb 92 UrS4 AAN drive gear):

...

[dspl1236]

all my mtfs wires are cracked, had to fix those...lot of the wiring has been brittle. ill check it again tomm eve. i need to grab my pin tools from the cq build to repin and make it all stock. ill provide vag outputs then.

thanks

[rs200]

if your car don't want to start after rebuilt the engine. than use a friend which will try to start the car and you slowly rotate distributor at one direction , than in another .
when engine start ... put the engine run for a while, than put distributor on good marks , and engine will start in future 100%.

I have same problem on my 200 20v.

[prj]

If it was a dizzy related issue, he would get a hall sensor fault.

[dspl1236]

long updates....

12/2011
getting ready to tear into this soon...but first home garage project...ahh the joys of buying an abandoned home...project....project....project

starting point


Step 1: Fix back wall. This is the worst built garage ever. Only the roof holds the walls up other than 1 long 2x4 nailed to the front and back wall. the back wall was falling outward by 5-6". 2 eye hooks and a ratchet system anchored the 90 while a buddy and I fixed current 1900's garage building technology with new side wall support. wall is now good. :alright



and it looks like no one ever shuts the house door... :roll:


Step 2: Enhance lighting specifically for the engine bays, 2x per bay. 1 above each car then 1 perpendicular to each of those for the rear. 1 above tool box.
:alright





Step 3: BTU's of Heat

[dspl1236]

Jan 2012 2x aan harness delivered




Feb 2012 the slow rebuild...