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My "Stroker" project

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  • Andy............. Sweet mate! cheers

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    • this is one of the best thread's i've have come across yet about this kind of stroking.

      Marco: i have to say, you are a very talented man who knows his stuff you have done a fine job with this projeckt and haven't made any shortcuts to make this a propper build

      hope to see more of this kind og stuff in the future from you that is this good or even better

      keep up the good work

      cheers,
      alexander
      IG: Alb garage

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      • Marco has sold his engine to me and has sold his S2 so unfortunately the legend will only live on in the forum.

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        • Originally posted by Jamo View Post
          Marco has sold his engine to me and has sold his S2 so unfortunately the legend will only live on in the forum.
          It is really a pity he had to sell the car and the engine (well, not a pity for you, Jamo)... but this does not affect to que thread quality. It is simply a brilliant job. Jamo, I hope you'll enjoy that engine for a lot of time.
          This thread is the key to quite a lot of questions a friend and I had about using the diesel block, as he is thinking on making a stroker engine on the future (we have the chance to get one block at a very nice price). That would be his particular Stage II as at the moment he has nearly finished a 3B to RS2 convertion.
          I also have a question... does the engine still keep the RS2 turbo and the original MRC mapping? Or has the GT30R been installed and the chipsed modified? Are there any dyno runs of that engine?
          Thanks and regards from Spain.
          Audi Coupé S2 '92 -- VW Golf 2 GTI '91 (v2) -- Renault 4 TL '84 -- Audi 100 2,3E '92 (Dad's) -- Suzuki SV 650 S '08

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          • Where was the problem on Pisobikers engine??

            What head studs did you use? Pisobiker says that "Studs holes have been enlarged to 12.5mm to accomodate TDi specs head studs.
            For this purpose I've used M12 x1.75 studs of the A2 1.4 TDi (AMF) engine, cut back 20mm."

            In the family album they say that the A2 studs are M12x1.15 and the AEL/AAT has M12x1.66.

            Jamo some light here please! What Water pump and what cambelt + tensioner did you use?

            Thanks
            Go Holset or Go RS4

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            • You can buy an ARP kit for this conversion from 034, thats what I'm using, you have to drill the holes in the head out, I did mine to 13mm.
              For the cambelt I'm using an RS2 with 3B water pump and tensioner, bolts straight on I'm told. Jamo is using the RS2 water pump and a modified ABY tensioner.

              http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=745
              sigpic
              1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
              1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
              1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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              • It's been posted somewhere that you can use head studs from a BMW six cylinder, which leaves you with a couple extra. It's cheaper than some of the other options. I haven't tried it myself.
                Kenneth
                1990 Coupe quattro
                1991 200q20v x 2
                1985 4ksq 20vt project
                1986 Coupe GT 10vt project
                2006 Honda Ridgeline
                1998 Honda VFR800FI

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                • That was my thought also about the A2 Diesel studs. They are cheap and because used on a turbo diesel extra strong!
                  Go Holset or Go RS4

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                  • They are cheaper if you use them once where as the ARP can be reused.

                    With the boost level and power level the engine is being built for i.e 450 bhp plus no way would I skimp out on the ARP's

                    All your questions Pisobiker has already documented in the thread no need to repost it.

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                    • Originally posted by AndyP View Post
                      You can buy an ARP kit for this conversion from 034, thats what I'm using, you have to drill the holes in the head out, I did mine to 13mm.
                      For the cambelt I'm using an RS2 with 3B water pump and tensioner, bolts straight on I'm told. Jamo is using the RS2 water pump and a modified ABY tensioner.

                      http://www.034motorsport.com/product...roducts_id=745
                      The method Andy uses is a lot easier to install

                      I do like the thought of the extra cooling of the RS2 pump though.

                      There is no right or wrong way both work great

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                      • i posted this question because that what marco wrights is not the same with that what i see in the family album.
                        Go Holset or Go RS4

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                        • And I say ditch them for ARP studs like myself who has taken over this project and AndyP has on his stroker

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                          • Got the head fitted to mine over the weekend, but when I came to fit the RS2 cambelt ( 150 teeth ) , there's no way would it go on, even with the 3B waterpump move to it's slackest position. So I tried a std ABY cambelt ( 151 teeth ) and it went striaght on. I'm still trying to think even now, how a std cam belt will fit when the head is 16mm higher
                            sigpic
                            1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
                            1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
                            1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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                            • If you have used an RS2 pump the tensioner/pump pulley is smaller diameter (to spin faster) this would give you more slack
                              Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                              • Originally posted by Graham View Post
                                If you have used an RS2 pump the tensioner/pump pulley is smaller diameter (to spin faster) this would give you more slack
                                Not on Andy's car, he's using the 3B water pump which is the tensioner

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