And finally, my RS2.

[K Simmonds]

Right, major thread revival coming...

Apart from a couple of small odd's and end's the only thing stopping me getting this car back on the road was a knackered clutch and the car also desperately needs the correct cam belt. It's currently running an ABY belt and water pump and as far as I can tell it's timed up okay, the car was seriously quick when it was on the road...

The intercooler has had a minor scuff there since I got the car but is 100% air tight, so I fitted a poly snub mount to prevent further damage.

So list of jobs..

Fix clutch.
Sort timing belt.
Fit new fuel filter, got one ready.
Fit new Walbro fuel pump.
Fit the the larger RS2 front brakes I've got on the shelf.
Oil and filter service.
Change coolant.
Change brake fluid.

I've just gotten my hands on a complete genuine RS2 clutch kit from TPS that I fitted ten years ago and has done no more than 100 miles. Also got a genuine Audi water pump which was fitted the year before the car it came from was crashed so looks and feels like a new one still.

Also got an oil cooler duct that's easily repairable.

[Rikki Kitto]

Can't wait to watch the progress brother

[K Simmonds]

Cheers Rikki, I'd really like to get the car MOT ready for the summer, I've decided it's been stood too long, I do move it about to prevent the tyres flat spotting and start it every now and then but I know the car want's a fuel pump as it's blown the fuse once and didn't sound 100% happy when I last started her up...

I've yet to brave looking in the tank, think I might pump out all the old fuel today and take a look inside, hopefully the sender unit hasn't corroded, sodding ethanol in non V-Power super unleaded has caused the pump to sound unhappy I reckon but who knows perhaps the strainer is clogged. I know I want see what going on in there before putting anymore fuel in and for the price I may as well simply change the pump for a Walbro to be safe.

Will is kindly sorting me out a timing belt from Audi tradition, most the other stuff I have in stock just need get, the fuel pump, oil and filter and some timing belt parts but don't plan on starting it again until the belt is changed as I don't really know the history of the one on there. I thought I did but that Goodyear belt isn't what I expected to find and is date stamped 25th of the 2nd 1999 if the numbers on the belt make any sense. It actually feels and looks fine still but I've had the car 10 years and obviously this isn't an engine to take any gambles with, I'm going to see if I can find date stamps on the tensioner and pump just to try make sense of what was done when.

[K Simmonds]

Just been and a closer look at the components used to to the current timing belt. The tensioner roller is FAG and dated 2002, the water pump I can't ID but does have a 2004 date code so who knows when it was actually done. The belt is tensioned correctly and the adjuster only about a third of the way across the slotted holes so someone obviously took the time to do it as well as they could with the parts provided.

And the timing is right despite it being an ABY pump and belt, if I put the timing mark on flywheel dead on it's correct location piston number one is at TDC checked with a DTI gauge and the mark on the cam pulley is one tooth to the left as it should be. I do vaguely recall mention this to Will at VRS 10 years ago and seem to remember him saying it's possible to do this way and not to worry about it, regardless it's going to redone with the right parts this time around.

[John.]

Also got an oil cooler duct that's easily repairable.

I think I remember reading somewhere on S2forum someone using one from (maybe?) a Beatle..... similar design? Tractor Dave perhaps?

[K Simmonds]

That's interesting John, will have a scan on eBay and see what I can find regarding a VW cooler duct. I'd rather avoid having to weld rusty old steel if I can ...

I've just been through my supplementary RS2 history and found this print out which shows someone obviously cared about the car. Though frustratingly it doesn't say who did the work. But as I said above whomever did the work did as good as job as they could with the parts available to them.

For reference the RS2 water pump has three less teeth than an S2 one, I've just counted them, 26 V's 29.

Right, I think I'm going to brave pumping the fuel tank out and see what's going on inside. I should really be doing B5 stuff but not knowing what the state of it is in there bothering me.

[Ian_C]

Holy thread revival Batman!

Keep up the good work Kit !

[K Simmonds]

Thank Ian, I'm going to have to start listing some crap on eBay I need out of my way soon to fund this exercise as I can see it getting expensive. But it's only going to get more expensive the longer I leave it is the way I look at it.

Pumped the tank out using the in tank pump which sounded okay as it happens but the brown colour of the fuel coming out didn't bode well. Got about five gallons out which can be burnt in the Jazz.

After hoovering off the top of the tank I managed to open it using my oil filter wrench on its largest setting without mangling the large plastic nut. What I found inside is worse than I expected but I don't think the sender unit is beyond saving it still moves and the gauge still worked.

However that bloody ethanol fuel has not been kind to anything ferrous inside, I managed to extract the pump before having to abort due to an unbearable amount of fumes making my eyes and head hurt. Have left the garage windows open and one door a foot up so hopefully it should have evaporated by the morning and I can remove the rest to clean and assess...

It's no wonder the pump was struggling last time I started her, the strainer is nearly blocked solid with sodding rust. Hoovering the top off the tank off was a pretty pointless exercise considerabling I'm going to have to do inside the tank once fume free.

Another job it add to the list is lightly skim all four brake disc's using the lathe at work, they all have just slightly too much rust to come up nicely with the knot wheel. Thankfully this is a job I've done before on Porsche brakes and whilst it is a fiddle getting them set up in a three jaw chuck it's certainly better than having to buy new ones.






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[K Simmonds]

The tank is still currently airing out but it's completely dry now just fumes and bloody rust...

I had a look at my random poly bushes this afternoon and identified them, they're all Powerflex black Motorsport items so very stiff. Turns out I've somehow got both the inside ones for my rear wishbones which need doing as well as a pair for the outer joint on the upper wishbones which I think I've already done with stock ones. If so they can go on my TQS or simply into stock, the blue ones are Apikoil diff cross member bushings and fairly soft so I'll fit them when doing the wishbones. I've no idea where any of these came from, I wouldn't normally use the black range but they're going to be fine on the back. The front wishbone bushes are virtually new OE ones that will probably outlast me.

Also managed to source a much better looking level sender and tank cap and Dave thinks he may have the hose from the pump, if he does then I just need to extract the basket so I can Hoover all the rust out and get a new cap nut and Walbro pump.

[K Simmonds]

Didn't get much done today other than some tidying up, I'm sorting through my current B5 parts mountain ready for another load of stuff that's all going to have to be boxed up and go in my attic...

Anyway, I did some serious rummaging and found an in-tank fuel hose with the correct fittings in good condition. It's just under 2"s shorter than the stock one but I've checked and it will fit even with a shorter Walbro pump if required.

Also found my stock ABY Coupe basket and strainer assembly which I don't mind adapting to fit and saves me modifying the stock one to fit a Walbro. However I may give this pump a chance, it's only been run a couple of times for five minutes or so with a clogged strainer and may well still be fine. I don't like running them on the bench dry as they depend on fuel as a lubricant but I've let it run for 10 seconds with a good squirt of WD-40 inside and it sounds perfectly happy now it's not being choked with rust.

My mission for the weekend is to use up a ten year old tin of POR15 so I'm seriously considering sticking the front end on axle stands to do the struts, bearing housings and if there's any left over after doing all my B5 rear suspension parts have the front arch liners out to do the body on this. I've checked all the work I did on the rear end 11 years ago and it's still mint even on the springs which I wasn't expecting.



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[K Simmonds]

Thought I should update the this thread to let everyone know my plans for this car, sadly getting it back on the road this year isn't going to happen. I've got a lot of family obligations and loosing Charlie and dealing with the fallout has been hard going, though now the car and all the parts have been dealt with I'd like to put that business to bed. I've also now got a lovely little dog that requires a lot of exercise and attention, having her to care for has helped keep me sane, I've no choice but get up early to walk and feed her. We cover about eight miles a day in three outings which is obviously doing me a lot good, I'm no longer fat put it that way. So the plan is to get the car roadworthy again over winter ready for next spring, I really want to get it done before I loose my father so he can have a go in it, he desperately wanted one when they nearly new but my mother wanted to pre order a 225 TT instead.

Anyway... I recently boost leak tested my RS2 to compare it Kelvins S2R for sanity's sake when I was chasing a fault code and couldn't get the turbo side of the intercooler on my car to hold more than couple of PSI before air started pissing past the seals on the coldside into the oil. I was planning on rebuilding the MTM K26/7 turbo anyway due it ingesting parts of those damn plastic MAF screens which has very lightly damaged the compressor wheel so no big deal, though it's safe to say it needs doing before being started again. Am considering upgrading the compressor wheel to a modern billet 6+6 blade design and I've got a spare crack free K26 #6 turbine housing should I need it as well as an exhaust manifold though my current one does't leak.

One of the last things I purchased from Charlie was a matched set of RS2 springs to fit to replace my current ones which are a mixture of S2 Coupe fronts and S2 Avant rears, the car handles perfectly well as it is but I'd prefer to use the correct items. I'll be sticking with the Bilstien B8's currently on the front and new stock OE RS2 dampers on the back, the B8's are quite heavily damped but seem to work well with stock springs.

I've got a brand new genuine RS2 cambelt and a new SKF water pump which I need to swap an RS2 pulley onto so all that can be put back as it should be along with one of Chef's billet bottom pulleys...

The big job then remaining is the clutch, I was very lucky to get a nearly new genuine RS2 clutch so again I've got the parts ready including a brand new slave cylinder thanks to Dave. Whilst the exhaust is off the Cat's will be going into storage, I've got a set of very nice quality decat pipes and I'm also going treat the car to a new Jetex cat back system as they're very reasonable. I would kinda like a Supersprint but there's a grand difference in price and I've only ever had positive experience of Jetex products. The original system still has life in it but is showing it's age so I figure it's best off in dry storage, I'd also like a bit louder exhaust so I can fully enjoy the five pot sound track.

All the above are jobs for when the weather turns poo at the end of Autumn, in the mean time my priority is is getting the stock 8V engine and box into my MK2 GTI as I have a buyer for the car as well as finally finishing my B5 TDI ready for the winter and ideally get my TQS running and driving as well all of which is outdoor work. My RS2 and C4 V6 Avant take up most of the space in my workshop, I really should sell my C4 but I am loathed to part with it as IMO they're the best car's Audi have ever produced and I've broken two of them so have a vast amount of spares.

[Jaswan]

Hi mate,

Well done on getting back to it with all that has gone on.

As mentioned the other day, I am more than willing to give you a hand. We can get those jobs ticked off no problem (touch wood).



Jase.

[hashluck]

Good luck with everything!

[slacky]

Pleased your back at it

[K Simmonds]

Thank guys, the past year been poo but life must go on!

And as always Jase your help will be greatly appreciated, once that MK2 GTI is gone the first major job on this car is the clutch which I reckon the two of us will do in a day. Will also need a hand with removing and refitting the headlining, I've found someone local who'll recover it professionally to a very high standard for £300 including materials if I supply it fully stripped ready, I was going to attempt it myself but I'd much rather pay someone else at that price.