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Blank Canvas!
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Most of the cleanup and stripdown now complete.
Just rears subframe and fueltank to go.
Then the fun job of stripping back the interior noise dampening material
Found a really dodgy rear end repair that will require some attention!
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Surprisingly enough, the only rust so far discovered is negligible....
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Finishing up the Coupe stripdown this weekend.
Next weekend the donor car shows up, then I have to very carefully catalogue and strip.
Fortunately I have enough room in the shed to have both cars under cover!
Couple questions for the seasoned engineers out there....
Performance modding of the 1.8t on standard ecu:
1. Is there a proven chip/remap option for the stock ECU - the two that I'm leaning toward is http://eshop.microchips-tuning.com/a4-aeb and http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_a418t.html
2. Turbocharger, Manifold, Injectors and Fuel Rail (incl accessories)
I am leaning towards the following basic upgrades as a start
I will be building a motor next year to push the 320-340 hp mark. At the moment I'd be happy with a reliable 230-250 hp.
Any comments or advice would be much appreciated.Comment
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What exactly you're looking for?
When I did wiring for my car, I used 1.8T original engine wiring loom paired with B4 loom so it's oem-spec plug&play. Passed it through firewall where a/c tubing originally goes so ECU sits right behind heaterbox in its original place. Since you guys have RHD cars, you'll have an extra ~1,5m wires in engine loom which means you can pass wiring through firewall where factory wiring goes and still place ecu behind heaterbox. Just takes some time and patience (and beer) to strip down that rubber thing off wiring.
Thanks
Had a sort of pause on it, but now I'm back in business, the season is coming. 
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What exactly you're looking for?
When I did wiring for my car, I used 1.8T original engine wiring loom paired with B4 loom so it's oem-spec plug&play. Passed it through firewall where a/c tubing originally goes so ECU sits right behind heaterbox in its original place. Since you guys have RHD cars, you'll have an extra ~1,5m wires in engine loom which means you can pass wiring through firewall where factory wiring goes and still place ecu behind heaterbox. Just takes some time and patience (and beer) to strip down that rubber thing off wiring.
Thanks Had a sort of pause on it, but now I'm back in business, the season is coming.
Hey, thanks.
Chassis and drivetrain loom from the donor A4 will be prepared to swap into the Coupe.
I will post photos later for the process of modifying the A4 dash, console to fit in the coupe - LOTS of work, especially molding the coupe door cards to mate up to the A4 dash sides!!
Custom hvac box to retain the A4 a/c and heating.
The extended exposure to water has completely destroyed the original Coupe wiring.
Drove the donor for a few days to identify and remedy any bugs prior to the transplant.
Fortunately, nothing major popped up....
Spent the weekend so far doing this..... ALL of you who knows, knows.....
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The interior prep should be completed by next weekend when the new soundproofing goes in:
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/combination...dener/p/AX3689
Used this stuff in my other car and almost as good as the "BIG NAME" product at half the price.Comment
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So basically the easy way is to have a look how to but b4 wiring and fuse box into a b2 and then it's plug and play from the engine side cheersWhat exactly you're looking for?
When I did wiring for my car, I used 1.8T original engine wiring loom paired with B4 loom so it's oem-spec plug&play. Passed it through firewall where a/c tubing originally goes so ECU sits right behind heaterbox in its original place. Since you guys have RHD cars, you'll have an extra ~1,5m wires in engine loom which means you can pass wiring through firewall where factory wiring goes and still place ecu behind heaterbox. Just takes some time and patience (and beer) to strip down that rubber thing off wiring.
Thanks Had a sort of pause on it, but now I'm back in business, the season is coming. Comment
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that's a pretty thorough strip down for sure
Mine is going for paint soon and i will be saving money by doing the strip down myself and having seen what you are up to, I've got a couple of questions...
Does the wiring loom from the shell into the door have any multi plug connectors to unplug the loom in one go where it goes into the shell, or is it a case of disconnecting each component in the door in one go and feeding it back out of the door?
I plan on removing the glass from my shell apart from the front screen and iunderstand getting the side rear windows out if a case of 3 nuts and easing it out of the rubber seal.What about the long alu extrusion which goes up the A pillar along the roof and down the C pillar? Is it riveted in and clear to see when the interior is out?
sorry for being lazy and asking rather than working it out for myself but if there is anything to be aware of it would be handy to know as i only have a few days to take it all apart
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Hi, always happy to help!that's a pretty thorough strip down for sure
Mine is going for paint soon and i will be saving money by doing the strip down myself and having seen what you are up to, I've got a couple of questions...
Does the wiring loom from the shell into the door have any multi plug connectors to unplug the loom in one go where it goes into the shell, or is it a case of disconnecting each component in the door in one go and feeding it back out of the door?
I plan on removing the glass from my shell apart from the front screen and iunderstand getting the side rear windows out if a case of 3 nuts and easing it out of the rubber seal.What about the long alu extrusion which goes up the A pillar along the roof and down the C pillar? Is it riveted in and clear to see when the interior is out?
sorry for being lazy and asking rather than working it out for myself but if there is anything to be aware of it would be handy to know as i only have a few days to take it all apart
This is the 5th time I've stripped a Coupe for complete paint, so my entire stripdown only took two days
Once the B-pillar trim is removed, the two bolts at the front of the rear quarter glass is exposed. Also one nut from inside cabin at rear of the quarter glass. A bit of silicone aerosol spray on the rubbers makes removal a bit easier and also protects the rubbers.
Then it is just a matter of carefully drilling out the rivets for the ali rail in roofline that houses the rubbers. I've seen a lot of cases where people have over-drilled the rivets and made refitting correct size rivets a pain in the bum!
The door wiring releases from all the components in the door (the electric mirror wiring is a bit funky to get to ) and then gets pulled through A-pillar into cabin.
Make sure, the day before you start stripping the rear, that you spray CRC or WD40 into the bolt holes that retain the rear plastic slam-panel under the rear hatch. It tends to collect water and gets pretty rusty. It'll save you plenty grief.
Apart from that, just keep in mind it is German engineering, not Japanese..... If you think you have all the fasteners removed from an item and it won't budge, look carefully before forcing! Perfect example is the exterior trim panel on the A-pillar - I've seen plenty that's been bonded to the pillar after somebody didn't realise they get slid upwards to remove......
Anyhoooo, just ask if you get stuck..Comment
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Brilliant!
thanks for the heads up - fifth time round, you have probably seen everything that could go wrong and got round it. Many thanks for the tip
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Sorry if I am being thick, what was the bodged repair?Comment
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