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My crank locking tool is out on loan but due back soon. I would be happy to lend it to you in a week or so.
The torque multiplier is nice but not necessary. I heavy duty breaker bar and a pipe work just fine.
Dave K.
USA
1991 e//S2 (home built S2 - the only way to get one in USA!)
2001 S4
I suppose desmo888 is using a tourque setting aka "FT"! Must admitt i just stuck it in 6th and a man inside with his foot hard on the brake? After all the play is take up in the drive line and the springs are compressed in the clutch, it locks up? You will need a tourqe muliplyer though cos i know of no normal tourque wrench that goes up to 400 or 450 what ever it is! Although i did read somwhere if you use the correct Audi tool it only needs to go to 300 or 350 i think it was?
Food for thougth and all that?
Money is everything! Second to Power of course!!! But money breeds power??
Originally posted by Doug_RS2 Cheers Dave - insured post from the US - how much would that cost? Maybe see if anyone closer to home has one first.
How do you torque it up properly without a torque wrench and torque multiplier?
Doug - Ouch, looks like shipping would be quite salty - about $23 USD!!
Damn thing is heavy.
As for the torque on the crank bolt, this is not as critical as folks would like to think. I have done several timing belt changes by using the my-fat-***-on-the-end-of-a-big-bar torque method.
This bolt is in a shear application and uses loctite, exact torque is not critical. Just use your body weight x the length of pipe - you're there (or close enough).
Dave K.
USA
1991 e//S2 (home built S2 - the only way to get one in USA!)
2001 S4
I did my belt change without either the locking tool or the multiplier and I am about 11 stone soaking wet and pissing drunk.
I buddied up to my local wrench who had an impact wrench. He lives about 7 miles from me. I drove over with no bumpers. I pulled off the IC. It took about 5 minutes. I put the car in gear and he cracked the bolt for me. No probs. The car didn't even lurch. It worked like a charm. I still can't figure out why impact wrenches don't impart a moment to the crank itself. Maybe the impacts just come too quickly. Anyway, it works.
I then tightened up the bolt hand tight. Put the IC back and drove home very slowly. Did the belts in the peace and quiet of my driveway.
Reversed the proceedure to assemble.
Now of course, if your friendly wrench live 200 miles away this might be inconvenient
To undo my crank bolt we borrowed an inch drive impact wrench from work, 2200 ft/lbs max torque from that baby. (its a case of squeeze the trigger and hang on!!! :wacked: )
Graham
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein
Doug when you do the timing belt could you do an idiots guide "How To" cos want to do mine too as its done 60k now..... Am probably looking at doing the head gasket whilst im at it so its def a metal one then for later fun
Ant
2007 Mk5 Golf GTi, 3 door, DSG, REVO Stg 2 and other goodies
2011 Kawasaki Z1000
Check www.20v.org and go to the maintenence section. I wrote a timing belt change procedure there several years ago. There are a couple excellent hints to make it easier.
Dave K.
USA
1991 e//S2 (home built S2 - the only way to get one in USA!)
2001 S4
Originally posted by S2 Ant Doug when you do the timing belt could you do an idiots guide "How To" cos want to do mine too as its done 60k now..... Am probably looking at doing the head gasket whilst im at it so its def a metal one then for later fun
check that gasket first! I replaced mine out of precaution for modding, only to find it had one fitted!
Money is everything! Second to Power of course!!! But money breeds power??
Ant - I have a genuine manual for the AAN engine (basiacally the same as ABY) courtesy of Mike (cheers Mike) - I will scan this in so I don't have to have that near a dirty engine. It has all the info you need for the job.
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