Gearshift Parts

[Tridac]

Trying to service the gearlever assembly. The gearlever plastic bush has collapsed at the top, providing no support for the clip.. Part numbers are: 8A0 711 334 for the housing and 8A0 711 511 for the clip. Audi tell me no longer available, so does anyone here know of a source, even s/hand so long as undamaged ?. If this is a common parts bin item, is it used on other models, perhaps with different part number ?.

The new dials bought last year via this forum still working fine, btw :-)...

Thanks,

Chris

[Greg_S]

I think 034 may sell a short shift kit. Otherwise a trip to the breakers?

[Tridac]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the reply. I've rebuilt the existing item meantime. CC the text to a reply in messages, which might help someone else : Most of the plastic tabs at the top of the ball socket had broken off leaving the gear lever free to pop out. Fixed it by making a circular ring of 14 gauge aluminium strip, about 5mm wide, which just fits between the socket and outer metal surround, held in place with 3 pk screws. Underside, 3 tabs with 6ba screws and nuts to stop the socket falling through. Probably sounds lie a bodge, but pretty neat and gets the job done. Good change now, but not sure whether the ball socket and it's rubber surround was originally moulded into the metal frame as one piece...

[Greg_S]

I would have thought it was pressed in. Have you got it well greased so the ball doesnt wear down with the mods? Any pictures of your work...

[Tridac]

No pics unfortunately, but try to explain better. On the 6 speed, the ball socket is plastic/nylon, but its moulded into rubber, which itself then sits into a moulded rubberised tube in the metal support. I guess these may have been made in two parts then bonded together originally, but were separated. Normally, there's some plastic lips at the top of the socket, around which the retaining clip is fitted. Most of the lips were broken on mine and never use a lot of force on the change, so it's just aged plastic. There's a small gap around the top, between the socket and the metall frame, which is around 1-2mm wide, which allows a metal ring to be fitted, pulling all the sections of the socket together. 3 small pk screws at 120 hold it in place. At the underside, theres plenty of room to fit retaining tabs, so one (shaped) across the full width with pop rivets, and two more at the other side with screws and nuts. All seems pretty tight, with almost no play at all. Not sure which lube to use, but have some aviation grease, Aeroshell 22, silicon base loaded with ptfe. Seems to work ok, but time will tell. Had thought of turning a complete socket from bar, but don't have nylon bar in stock and wanted the job done. Will most likely happen if it has to be revisted. Been working on the car for a week or so, loads of to do items, and fitted a new oil cooler and support as well. Old one corroded and leaky around the union, with the surround completly rotted away. Do have a pic of that:

[Greg_S]

I've managed to nurse the oil cooler housing along, but had to change the oil cooler too. Makes sense how you have described the shifter mechanism, I'm kicking myself as a threw one away when I fitted a short shift kit and regretted since

[Tridac]

Hi Greg, The oil cooler caused a bit of head scratching, but a flat ali plate to support it seems to work fine. Used the 2 holes for the original frame, but needs to be set well back, as the clearance to the undertray is marginal. May have to revisit that, as the cooler is ali and should have no stress on it all. Slackened pipes at both ends etc, and routed to avoid any load on the unions. The added bit of sheet metal guide is probably not needed, as there's loads of airflow at reasonable speed, but the S2 really does need that cooler for hot weather, or any sort of quick driving...