I need 2 solid lifters...

[steve briance]

Hello all,

I need to lay my hands on a pair of solid lifters for my 7a head. I don't in intend on running with them, I just need a pair to help while i check piston to valve clearance using plasticine technique, hydraulic lifters are no good for the check as you need zero lash to get proper results.

Anyone got any i could buy? Or anyone know who sells them singularly? Cheers!!

[adam g]

I have some from a 10v ur Quattro, not sure if they are the same.


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[steve briance]

I will have to do some research... What engine code was the UR they came from? Or maybe even better, do you still have the details of the parts so i can see if they cross reference to 7a? Thankyou for posting

[Error404]

If you can give me some dimensions I can probably make you a couple of ground blanks to drop into some old lifter bodies in places of the piston?

[steve briance]

If i had a lathe i would probably do something similar! Good call. Would I be right in thinking the measurement would be the gap between cam lobe pointing down at max lift and the gap between lobe tip and valve stem is what I'm seeking to mock up a'zero lash' pumped up hydraulic lifter?

[Error404]

you basically want to have zero lash on the heel of the cam, opposite the lobe.

[adam g]

I will have to do some research... What engine code was the UR they came from? Or maybe even better, do you still have the details of the parts so i can see if they cross reference to 7a? Thankyou for posting

It was a WR engine. Are you referring to part below. No part number on it.

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[steve briance]

Thanks Adam, that is the part I was referring to but i have no idea if it is right for my engine as the WR came with solid lifters from the factory as in your picture above. I am looking to temporarily replace the hydraulic lifters with a solid replacement that tuners sell in order to run engines at higher RPM. I have no idea whether the cam / valve relationship is the same between the WR and MB engine (which had hyd' lifters) and following on, is it the same as the 7A?

If the WR had come with hydraulic lifters to start with (and yours been retrofitted with solid 'upgrade' lifters) I would have been interested as it seems the same tappet features in engines over many models and many years and would probably be fine!

Alex - I built up my engine today to the point where i can make everything move as it should unfortunately it also highlights a tricky problem... How on earth do i measure the gap in my pic between heel of cam and top of valve? The figures here are what i need to provide you with to help out with making a temporary lifter. I haven't got any old spares lying around to take the piston out of so wonder if it is just as easy to make a solid cylinder to fit in the lifter bore and fill the gap as needed?

[Error404]

I have a load of old lifters here if you want I can send a couple to you? Realistically with what you are trying to do with this, I would think measuring to the nearest 0.5mm should be good enough

[S3ilver]

Think you would be better using the actual lifters you will be running because when the valve opens there is no lash. The solid lifters have to be shimmed individually for each valve so unless you are going to do this the readings won't be accurate. IMVHO

[steve briance]

Alex, I've got my hands on some lifters now so i will put them in and see how it is. I think this is just a case of just doing rather than overthinking.

At s3ssilver - yes, i know what you mean but the hydraulic lifters wont take up the slack without oil pressure but otherwise yes, i can't be bothered with shimming solid lifters for service!

Watch this space...

[Acki]

Sorry but why you don’t measure the lift and the top of the hydraulic lifter?
The hydraulic works only between lifter and valve. :-)

[steve briance]

The bit that touches the valve is sprung loaded when not full of oil. Rotating the cam and pressing against an empty lifter will squash the spring before it opens the valve. The end result is the valve doesnt open as far. What I'm trying to do is find out if my fully open valve will hit the piston.

[steve briance]

So, this evening i have done the following to get an accurate measurement of the gap between cam heel and valve stem.

Silicone casting rubber, cardboard tube to contain it, plasticine to stop it leaking out of the tube, fill with silicone, sit cam onto its bearings and make the heel point at the valve.

Wait 24 hours and remove the moulding - it pulled out cleanly leaving no flash anywhere around the valve. Cut it in half and measure the relevant bit.

My small micrometer doesn't go small enough so i used my dial gauge very carefully so as not to press into the silicone.

17.85mm I had found some ambiguous figures online but ambiguous is not good enough when you could risk blowing up a perfectly good rebuilt engine. It may all seem a bit over the top but it was enjoyable and satisfying seeing the results so why not?!