Fumoto Drain valve

[Bram]

Thats an interesting statement, exactly how much crud is collected there i your experience?

Well, I have not measured it, since I flush it all at once, but I just notice that the last bits of oil coming out looks like small particles are in it. I do not know how to describe it, but I am sure that at the bottom of you oil pan some not so fluid particles lay, waiting to enter your bearings if you do not flush your engine completely.

just my 2 cents

[fish]

Bram, don´t you have an oilfilter??

[Tonks4x4]

Or once a year completely remove the sump and clean it all out.

[Bram]

Bram, don´t you have an oilfilter??

Off course I have an oil filter. Have you ever checked the last bit of dirt at the bottom of your sump? It's there, even with an oil filter.

[spink]

valid point but what about all the shyte that is left in the oil cooler/lines?

[Josh-stateside]

valid point but what about all the shyte that is left in the oil cooler/lines?

Pump it out or add a drain around the oil cooler? Don't forget you probably could put a magnetic plug somewhere? Tap the oil pan for a magnetic plug and remove that after the drain it from the fumuto valve?

[Josh-stateside]

I've got one of these on my power steering setup and they might make a 3/4-16" pre-filter?

http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

[Smith_S2]

double post

[Smith_S2]

In the middle of a service and I have a stuck spark plug ATM, don't ask, and came across these http://www.fumotousa.com/ thought forum search, are they any good? I have never seen anything like this before, guys who have em post your thoughts.

Did you get them from here?

Fumoto Engineering of Europe
Normandy House, 35 Glategny Esplanade
St. Peter Port, Guernsey, GY1 2BP Channel Islands, Great Britain

Thanks
John

[JP]

I run one on mine pro's and con's as follows

Pro's
1 - drain oil with flick of a finger
2 - If needed to remove totally doesn't appear to seize in sump due to brass construction
3 - gives an excellent location to return oil separator to sump

Con's
1 - if someone doesn't like you very easy for them to drop the oil out your engine
2 - as bram says not all oil drains out of sump approx 100-200ml left


As a general rule of thumb if doing a proper oil change you should be disconnecting oil cooler lines and draining the cooler and lines aswell as the sump. So the convenience of the flick of a switch is negligible at this point. I personally use it for two things one to return oil separator to sump prior to catch tank and secondly to give more regular intermediate oil changes where I drain out the majority of oil and change filter every 3000miles, with a major total system cleanout every 6,000miles.

When draining with the fumoto it allows me to part drain remove the tray from underneath the car, empty it part drain again, until sump is almost empty at which point I remove the fumoto to remove the final dredges stuck in the bottom.

Things to note when doing an oil change, never use engine oil flushes, this is like pouring degreasant into your engine and strips the bearings of the valuable thin film of oil that makes them work, some of it also tends to remain sitting in the cylinderhead deteriorating the quality of your fresh oil. I have seen many an engine with prematurely worn bearings due to regular servicing with engine oil flush additives.

Secondly bring your engine upto full operating temperature go and take it for a good rag to get the engine oil temp as hot as possible within it's operating range and dump the oil whilst it is hot. This is when the oil is at it's thinnest and will drain the best from your engine with the least amount of residue left behind whilst still leaving that fundamental thin film of oil coating on your bearings for startup after the oil change.

hth

[driftin jo]

After reading this thread it would seem that the Fumoto Valve is not a great design when used on the S2 . This is because of the position/ angle of figment and the fact that this does not allow for complete drain of the oil, I'm not going to slag the design off as in other makes and models of cars this is probably not the case and the oil can drain completely.

I am going to make an adaptor for a ball valve with slotted threads so that it can be used on the S2 and WILL drain the oil just as if the sump plug was removed .

I'm not sure when I will get time to do this as it all depends when I can get a machine free at work I can use, but as this is only a small part once the CNC is set I can run 20-30 off quickly .

The ball valve will just be a standard off the shelf part that won't cost much , about £10-12

The adaptor will screw into the sump and the ball valve will then screw on to it and once it is on will never need to be removed .

If anyone is interested in one of these could you let me know via PM so I have an idea of how many to make.
Price for the adaptor will be £10 plus p+p and I will get a price on a suitable ball valve soon.

[Jamo]

I think some of the posts of criticism are a bit daft, the valve is a life saver having had to bash old sump plugs off it really makes oil changed easy

Regarding the little bit of oil left easy solution I used is jack up one side higher so that all the oil is gravity driven out of the valve and I use about 300-500ml of fresh oil to flush the last bits after leaving the valve open, not really rocket science solution but it works perfectly for me.

[Jamo]

After reading this thread it would seem that the Fumoto Valve is not a great design when used on the S2 . This is because of the position/ angle of figment and the fact that this does not allow for complete drain of the oil, I'm not going to slag the design off as in other makes and models of cars this is probably not the case and the oil can drain completely.

I am going to make an adaptor for a ball valve with slotted threads so that it can be used on the S2 and WILL drain the oil just as if the sump plug was removed .

I'm not sure when I will get time to do this as it all depends when I can get a machine free at work I can use, but as this is only a small part once the CNC is set I can run 20-30 off quickly .

The ball valve will just be a standard off the shelf part that won't cost much , about £10-12

The adaptor will screw into the sump and the ball valve will then screw on to it and once it is on will never need to be removed .

If anyone is interested in one of these could you let me know via PM so I have an idea of how many to make.
Price for the adaptor will be £10 plus p+p and I will get a price on a suitable ball valve soon.

It's not the angle, it's because the ball is smaller than the sump hole. I'm not convinced all oil is drained out with the normal sump plug as well as I flush with fresh oil and even with the oem plug dirty oil comes out

[driftin jo]

It's not the angle, it's because the ball is smaller than the sump hole. I'm not convinced all oil is drained out with the normal sump plug as well as I flush with fresh oil and even with the oem plug dirty oil comes out

It is the angle with regards to the fact that the drain plug hole is on the side of the sump at nearly 90 deg .
So when the valve is screwed in you raise the hight of the opening of it, it then becomes irrelevant how big the ball valve is as the oil in the bottom cant get over the threaded part with the hole in before it !
Even tilting the car it is still going to trap oil, I have a sump in my hand right now and I can tell you there will be a lot of oil trapped in the bottom .
As for adding extra oil to flush the old out ,well it still will not get the gritty heavy bits that are at the bottom as they are not floating on the oil .

[s2_bo]

Why would there be crap in the bottom to start with? Both sumps i have stripped have had black oil residue and stains but no bits..

Its not like its able to sit still in there while the sump is cutting through it thousands of times a minute. I think the filter takes care of most of it..