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4 pin required
I may as well buy new, Audi from past experience are not cheap as we know so does anyone know of anywhere else to get one, if not, what is the Audi part number please.
Thanks
there is no more with 4 pin.. now you can buy only with 3 pin , and it is replacment for 4pin. work great on my car.
my opinion is that is better to buy new one, because if someone sell you an old one, they can die very soon..
I now that new is expensive, but in every case it is better solution..
One "interesting" (read: Pain-in-the-arsh) fact is the C4 UrS-car water temp gauge is driven by the multifunction temperature switch (MFTS). Sometimes the MFTS fails so you really don't know if the low temp is related to the MFTS or a stuck-open Thermostat. The way to confirm one or the other is to access the Climate Control Diagnostics and check what the Channel 51 reading is with the heater on. If the gauge reads low and Ch.51 says 89 deg C or so, the MFTS has failed. However, if the gauge reads low and Ch. 51 reads low, e.g. 50 deg C, and you have been driving (or idling) for long enough to warm-up the engine, then the thermostat has failed open and you need to replace the thermostat.
The F76 Electro Thermoswitch (aka multifunction thermoswitch(MFTS)) is under the intake manifold, as shown in the illustration below:
There are two switches. One is the F98 Coolant pump thermo switch (Item 15 below) for the after run pump (two pin) and the other one (multi-pin (3 or 4)) is the F76 MFTS (Item 16). If you are good, you can do it with out draining the rad and still only lose about 200 mL(or less) of coolant.
PN for the OE 4 pin MFTS is 034 919 369C. The one below is the later three pin (works just fine) available through World Pac:
To change it, you need a 29 mm deep socket (to clear the brown electrical connection) and a stubby rachet. Move the throttle body hose out of the way to get better access.
I changed mine in my Sunday clothes while waiting for my wife to come out of the house to go for Sunday brunch. I was just trialling it to see how I would do it when we came back home and before you know it (about 5 minutes), I had removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. There was some tricky finger work while doing the Dutch-boy dike plugging thing with one finger and handing-off the old one from my right hand to my left hand and then feeding the new one from the left hand to my right hand and then starting the threads by hand. NOTE: All this was done with the engine just warm from getting out of the garage to the street. DON'T DO IT with the engine HOT!!
Note: If the plastic electrical connector in the harness crumbles (due heat aging), the PN for a new one is 893971974.
One "interesting" (read: Pain-in-the-arsh) fact is the C4 UrS-car water temp gauge is driven by the multifunction temperature switch (MFTS). Sometimes the MFTS fails so you really don't know if the low temp is related to the MFTS or a stuck-open Thermostat. The way to confirm one or the other is to access the Climate Control Diagnostics and check what the Channel 51 reading is with the heater on. If the gauge reads low and Ch.51 says 89 deg C or so, the MFTS has failed. However, if the gauge reads low and Ch. 51 reads low, e.g. 50 deg C, and you have been driving (or idling) for long enough to warm-up the engine, then the thermostat has failed open and you need to [url="http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21881.phtml"] replace the
My car has some kind of temperature related fault: about 3km after cold start, the temperature warning sign comes up on autocheck. The temp gauge reads 90c as normal, also there are no fault codes in the ECU. Coolant level is ok, I think the coolant level sesor should be ok aswell, othervise the coolant fault would show with ignition, not after the car has warmed up.
According to your description, my temp gauge should read nothing when it's a MTFS fault. Any suggestions what to check, or where the fault is?
My car has some kind of temperature related fault: about 3km after cold start, the temperature warning sign comes up on autocheck. The temp gauge reads 90c as normal, also there are no fault codes in the ECU. Coolant level is ok, I think the coolant level sesor should be ok aswell, othervise the coolant fault would show with ignition, not after the car has warmed up.
According to your description, my temp gauge should read nothing when it's a MTFS fault. Any suggestions what to check, or where the fault is? Car is MY1995 UrS6
I don't think I said that your coolant temp gauge would read nothing when it is a MFTS fault. In my experience, it just reads low (like 60 deg.) when the climate control Ch. 51 reads higher (e.g. 87 deg C). I have no experience with the AutoCheck indicating a "HOT!!!" coolant temp fault. That said, based on your info (above), I would have to suspect a failed MFTS or, perhaps, a bad connection/connector at the MFTS. You might want to check there first. (Be careful, that connector plug is brittle). You might also want to check the CC head Ch. 51 reading at the time you get the "HOT!!!" warning (note: heater needs to be on). If you don't have the Auto Climate Control, VAG-com checking the G62 coolant temp sender is going to be the only way to confirm that your coolant temps are good.
New thought: Are you sure that the thermostat hasn't stuck shut and the hot temps are real (and the MFTS has also failed)?
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
I don't think I said that your coolant temp gauge would read nothing when it is a MFTS fault. In my experience, it just reads low (like 60 deg.) when the climate control Ch. 51 reads higher (e.g. 87 deg C). I have no experience with the AutoCheck indicating a "HOT!!!" coolant temp fault. That said, based on your info (above), I would have to suspect a failed MFTS or, perhaps, a bad connection/connector at the MFTS. You might want to check there first. (Be careful, that connector plug is brittle). You might also want to check the CC head Ch. 51 reading at the time you get the "HOT!!!" warning (note: heater needs to be on). If you don't have the Auto Climate Control, VAG-com checking the G62 coolant temp sender is going to be the only way to confirm that your coolant temps are good.
New thought: Are you sure that the thermostat hasn't stuck shut and the hot temps are real (and the MFTS has also failed)?
The temperature according to the gauge is 90c, also oli warms up to approx 80-90c, so I think the thermostat should be ok(it was changed a year ago). I Checked the engine temperature with vag-com and it showed around 90c.
I'll check the Channel 51 on climate panel the next time I go for a drive, probably helps me a bit.
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RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
Channel #1 11,7 Central Flap, sporadic block
6,3 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C sporadic open
Channel #51 76c @engine temperature 90c by the water temperature gauge
Channel #52 g3 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
e2 A/C Refrigerant Low Pressure Switch (F73)
g2 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
g1 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
Channel #53 g3 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
g2 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
g1 System function OK (g1+g2+g3 must illuminate simultaneously to indicate system is OK)
d1 Bi-directional wiring harness
These 2 indicate that sometingi is wrong with the engine temp sensor(MFTS), is the 14c difference big enough to trigger temperature fault?
#1 6,3 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), A/C sporadic open
#51 76c
This might be because the AC is switched off (-15c outside temperature here)
#52 e2 A/C Refrigerant Low Pressure Switch (F73)
Tut what should this indicate?
#53 d1 Bi-directional wiring harness
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