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Looking for a brake setup for my S4 which can handle track days with 4-500 HP without fading. I'm looking at something like 996 calipers and 322 mm rotors as one option. HAs anybody here experienced fading using such brakes? At what HP level?
If I want to get even better brakes, what would be the best solution, changing to a better caliper (6 pot) or increasing disc size?
For the UrS you would want rs2 brackets with 993tt calipers and 993tt rotor rings with custom alum hats.
If you use the 996 calipers you would need to go with smaller one piece 314 A8 rotors and custom brackets. This is the kit I have assembled as I don't plan to track the car and want to be able to still fit 16" winter wheels.
Note that these are the common setups popular in the US on cars that originally had G60 calipers. Do you have UFO brakes though?
If you dont want to empty your wallet..........decent brake pads and decent brake discs for the 314 mm S4/S6 brakes. A friend has driven many miles with those brakes on several track meetings in Norway and he has never experienced fading. But you need to buy some racing brake fluid that have a higher boiling point than regular fluid. Why "waste" alot of money on expensive brakes when the OEM Audi brakes works nice ? I have put on 314 mm S4 V8 brakes on my car and it works nice for me. Just to add a important notice: my friend won his class in that track meeting. So he does NOT drive like a sissy. OEM brakes works nice for him,so i think they should work nice for you to. But its your money...........
2003 VW Passat Highline 130 TDI wagon with ALL options.
Looking for a brake setup for my S4 which can handle track days with 4-500 HP without fading. I'm looking at something like 996 calipers and 322 mm rotors as one option. HAs anybody here experienced fading using such brakes? At what HP level?
Regards, J
Yes, mine started to fade after 4 laps at Croft circuit last year (996/323 disks/DS2500's/castrol super response fluid) i really expected them to do better than that, but it depends on how you drive your car and on what circuit your using. Croft is pretty hard on brakes, where as castle coombe isn't and they worked ok there.
If you absoloutley cane it and with upto 500hp IMO i'd go for 6-pots.
Travelling down a main straight at 120mph only to find the brake pedal has gone to mush is not a nice feeling.
Looking for a brake setup for my S4 which can handle track days with 4-500 HP without fading.
If I want to get even better brakes, what would be the best solution, changing to a better caliper (6 pot) or increasing disc size?
Don't forget about disk thickness (thicker is better), vane type (directionaly vented is better), disk hat material (alloy or cast steel), brake cooling (cooling ducts do matter).
This can save some heat . And most essential thing - brake ballance. If you put big brakes on the front, due to bias, they will overwork, just because rears are 'sleeping'. If suspension is hard, rears must be revised also. At least you want high friction pads there (like DS3000).
Just because you increase disc diameter, put bigger caliper - car doesn't need to stop better (yes, in 90% cases it stops), just because tires stop the car. Better tire you run, better suspension you run, more you choose right racing line - less stress on the brakes. That's maybe an answer to your friends success. Maybe he has correctly biased brakes, good suspension, and does not overbrakes just because he chooses right racing line ...
From my stupid point of view for your application you need something like GT3 4pots, ~330 x ~32-35 directionally vented disc with alloy hat, and rears in good condition. And changing pads before tracking. I mean you get there with street ones, track with race ones.
Sau
200 20vt 88' 3b, human carrier
CQ typ85 with AAN inside, see project blog at http://kwlw.blogspot.com
No euro urS4 had G60 struts fitted, you can NOT use RS2 brackets on these chassis's
Best option is GT3 4 pots and 332x32mm 2 piece discs but you can have 6 pots if you wish but you would require 18" wheels.
The HP2 upgrade from the later urS6 is a good improvement over the UFO but does require you to swap to the later HP2 strut also.
Whatever you upgrade to make sure you have good braided brake lines (with the braid protected with an outer sheath) and good brake fluid that is chaged regularly.
Sorry for the ignorance, wtf are UFO brakes???
(my brother has a Ur S4 & it has massive calipers on the front that actually have 4 separate pads each wheel!)
Seems to stop ok too!
UFO discs look just like a ufo, it was a design that audi tried i think from memory to help increase the sept area of the disc, they suffer from warping very quickly and i certainly don't think they are suited to track use, i had an urs4 with these on and even brand new they didn't stop the car well. the later urs6 front discs and pads are much much better, i have no issues with them but then i don't track my car but i does get fast road use.
You would also be quite surprised how different the brakes feel with new rear discs and pads, a lot more bite especially if your calipers are all working fine.
Sorry for the ignorance, wtf are UFO brakes???
(my brother has a Ur S4 & it has massive calipers on the front that actually have 4 separate pads each wheel!)
Seems to stop ok too!
Then your S4 is 93 onwards and has the HP2 style strut, which I also have a solution for.
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