Yup. Good switch=zero ohms with engine off & bomb depressurized. AND
Infinite ohms (or some high number) with pressure above 1200-1800 psi. This makes light go off.
Bad switch= 0 ohms with engine running AND pressure above 1200-1800 psi. Makes light go on.
spray some contact cleaner etc. on the terminals, but a bad connection would cause the light to flicker OFF.
The switch might just be tired, and not opening at the correct pressure. This will ohm out as a good switch with the engine off!
You have to measure the pressure, or replace the switch as a test
If the switch is opening at say, 2000 psi, you might have system pressure of 1500 psi, which is plenty for braking assist, but makes the light go on
Is your ABS working?
Servo leak test: with engine off, and bomb still full, loosen the return connection on the servo and check for leaking. The book says a few drips are OK. DONT step on the brake! Since you cant get at the servo, loosen the end at the T that connects the brake and steering returns to the bomb.
If all that doesnt pay off, I think you def. need a pressure gauge to rule out a tired pump, or a defective bomb
If all else fails, leave the wires to the switch off, and keep driving!
Glad to help, dude. Now can anyone tell me how to get my muthah fvkin POS rear hatch to stop squeeking like a slaughterd pig, for more than two days!
Josh
Infinite ohms (or some high number) with pressure above 1200-1800 psi. This makes light go off.
Bad switch= 0 ohms with engine running AND pressure above 1200-1800 psi. Makes light go on.
spray some contact cleaner etc. on the terminals, but a bad connection would cause the light to flicker OFF.
The switch might just be tired, and not opening at the correct pressure. This will ohm out as a good switch with the engine off!
You have to measure the pressure, or replace the switch as a test
If the switch is opening at say, 2000 psi, you might have system pressure of 1500 psi, which is plenty for braking assist, but makes the light go on
Is your ABS working?Servo leak test: with engine off, and bomb still full, loosen the return connection on the servo and check for leaking. The book says a few drips are OK. DONT step on the brake! Since you cant get at the servo, loosen the end at the T that connects the brake and steering returns to the bomb.
If all that doesnt pay off, I think you def. need a pressure gauge to rule out a tired pump, or a defective bomb
If all else fails, leave the wires to the switch off, and keep driving!
Glad to help, dude. Now can anyone tell me how to get my muthah fvkin POS rear hatch to stop squeeking like a slaughterd pig, for more than two days!Josh
I will do the servo test...before lastly getting a hydraulic pressure test done


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