Does the bomb actually assist the power brakes under normal conditions or does it only just act as an accumulator in the event of a pump failure?
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Originally posted by 5cylinderman View PostDoes the bomb actually assist the power brakes under normal conditions or does it only just act as an accumulator in the event of a pump failure?
HTH, Chris"Nulla tenaci invia est via"
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A1QSHIP said it well. And probably it was a nice propaganda/marketing speech back in the days.
But dont forget only audis from that era were using brake bomb, right after that audi got rid of it and went back to vacuum booster. Must be a reason.sigpic
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I've driven several Sierra Cosworths which had OE power brakes that actually worked. Even the good old Range Rover P38's had decent power brakes, as did the later Classics. Jaguar's XJ6 system even worked well. What in all that's holy did Audi do with their design. I have refurbed calipers all round with a fresh genuine pump, albeit with my ding ding brake bomb pressure alert on start up, and my brakes are still way below average, even with decent pads all round.
I have a new brake bomb on the shelf ready for fitment, but I'm already swayed to go to servo assistance.
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Originally posted by varia View PostA1QSHIP said it well. And probably it was a nice propaganda/marketing speech back in the days.
But dont forget only audis from that era were using brake bomb, right after that audi got rid of it and went back to vacuum booster. Must be a reason.
Chris"Nulla tenaci invia est via"
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The hydraulic system is Audi over-engineering at its finest. I am sure it works great when new and there are some benefits to it. The problem is that in order for the bomb to provide adequate assistance it needs to be properly pressurised. As soon as the accumulator has been manufactured the pressure inside is slowly depleting as the gas leaks past the diaphragm. When the pressure is reduced, there is less force acting on the hydraulic circuit so more of your pedal effort goes into compressing the gas in the accumulator rather than being transferred to the braking circuit, thus you need more pedal effort for the same braking effect and the brakes feel even more wooden as the hydraulic circuit has a damping effect.
The vacuum system is simpler, cheaper and more reliable and coupled to a vacuum reservoir it is just as effective as the hydraulic system on a boosted car. IMHO this is why Audi ditched the system a long time ago.Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
Indigo ABY coupé
Imola B6 S4 Avant
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Guys any experience with remove a bomb system and go over to vacuum brake system on N/A 7A Coupe? I am not sure if its everything right, but i have brembo 4 pots brakes, HAWK HPS pads and brake pedal is still too soft( there is something such a gap around 2-3mm when is no brake power, after that brake power can feel) in my opinion. Brake reservoir is full, need check PAS reservoir. Maybe a new bleeding brake procedure. I am not sure if the brake bomb have a share, or its just air in the brake system. I am not sure, but is there any instruction, how bleed ABS?If there is air at system.Last edited by Tom_; 21 February 2017, 18:28.Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V
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I have 20vt and right now with one camber v6 vacumbooster with 25mm 7a/3b master cylinder.
* Fronts are 4pot brembo(bmw) 323mm rotors
* Rears s4/s6 43mm girling, 280mm rotors
* No ABS
* No pressure regulator under the master c.
Brakes are Superb, but when there is very hard brakeing - there is quite a lot nosedive.1990 2.2 20VT Audi Coupe Quattro
*Hx35/k26, MaxxECU, Wagner EM/IC *RS2 Recaro *4pot-Brembo *3" turboback *Treser *Koni/H&R
1990 Audi 200 20v Avant 2.2 20VT *7 Seater *Full electric gizmos
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