You can change the style the forum displays by selecting your preferred style at the bottom left of the site.
We have made an enhancement so that old threads should now link from search results to the correct thread. This is not yet in place for single post links
Perhaps one of the relays on the pump has a fault. Sure you can "hot-wire" the ABS pump to test it. After-all it is only a pump controlled by an ECU. You should be able to activate the solenoids in the ABS unit also. I would image the ECU pulls to earth to activate these. Will try and take a look at the electrical schematics later
ok,so we have got classic hate and love relationship with my S2
i love the car ,and car hate me
I energized solenoids in ABS module,but all they do is actually stop the fluid from coming out from bleed nipples when energized.Take the power away ,and fluid is coming out again.
so using pressure tool i bleed the brakes again,went on the road test-hit the brakes for the first time and ABS is working,but only for that one time.
brake hard again and it will lock the front wheels
No fault codes stored,no warning lights on dash.
the only thing im thinking is,lets say that when i was making new brake pipes in engine bay ,if i would mixed up location in ABS module(for example front left with front right)could this be the reason why its not working?
Any ideas please ?
I know buddy.i did check i against another S2 and I'm 99%sure I connected it as it should be .Im just trying to think out of the box now.Its strange that ABS ECU is not flagging any dtc-s but ABS is not working
I have almost the same problem, but i changed all wheel sensors and do it still So maybe the problem is in distance between sensor to outer cv joint. All must have the same distance. Or air in the system. I changed pipes/hoses too and then ABS light on every time, but not after braking, but maybe immediately or after 20km´s So i know how u feel i feel almost the same my friend
I have almost the same problem, but i changed all wheel sensors and do it still So maybe the problem is in distance between sensor to outer cv joint. All must have the same distance. Or air in the system. I changed pipes/hoses too and then ABS light on every time, but not after braking, but maybe immediately or after 20km´s So i know how u feel i feel almost the same my friend
I'm glad I'm not the only one
I will try to adjust air gap between sensor and rings but I would expect to see fault code if this was the problem but then again I'm not sure how is that software working?
I don't think there is any air trapped in the system as I have bleed it twice with pressure tool.i did 500 miles and ABS light never came on.
Just odd 🤔🤔
Three bits from the left need 12v power supply and other three on the right (from top to bottom)needs ground supply.you will hear and feel solenoids operating.
Anyway,this didn't help me much.I can only confirm they are operating but didn't help me to fix my problem
I see!
I thought that there might have been output tests in VCDS.
There is little info on what to do to bleed the ABS module on these vehicles as they are seldom replaced and a new one would be pre bled by the manufacturer.
If you are confident enough and have help, I would attempt to bled the brakes whilst someone cycles the return pump briefly. That is what is recommended for the C4 with EDL although strangely only fror the front wheels.
You can bridge the relay from under the bonnet or earth pin 28 at the ecu connector looking at the schematic which is essentially what a VAG 1710 does I expect!
I see!
I thought that there might have been output tests in VCDS.
There is little info on what to do to bleed the ABS module on these vehicles as they are seldom replaced and a new one would be pre bled by the manufacturer.
If you are confident enough and have help, I would attempt to bled the brakes whilst someone cycles the return pump briefly. That is what is recommended for the C4 with EDL although strangely only fror the front wheels.
You can bridge the relay from under the bonnet or earth pin 28 at the ecu connector looking at the schematic which is essentially what a VAG 1710 does I expect! http://www.s2central.com/S2_Schematics/C/C31.pdf
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment