Instrument cluster schematic

[Tractor Dave]

Oh no.... I wonder if someone has been in there before and loctited it on?

Did the needle twist at all?

No. The cluster hasn't been opened before. It was still factory sealed. I did read a thread here somewhere that the needles can't be removed on later clusters and this is a 10\95 build.
I will unsolder the stepper motor and see if I can get another.

[Bowie69]

Oh no.... I wonder if someone has been in there before and loctited it on?

Did the needle twist at all?

[Tractor Dave]

Yes. Speedo needle. Went to wind it back anti clockwise and the whole pin came out with a thin length of spring attached. I’m really annoyed with myself as this was a perfect working cluster from the cabbie with autocheck and fuel computer. I tested it in the s2 and it was fully functional. I was just going to swap the dials for white ones and have it as a spare.


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[Bowie69]

Do you mean needles? Sorry, confused

[Tractor Dave]

I’ve just discovered that the newer cluster pins don’t wind off.



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[Mikes2]

to get the fuel or temp gauge to move you scan earth the signal wire which will give full scale deflection

[pfi]

Some notes I did when testing :

- speedo test :
T26a / 16 : Plus Spannungskonstanter, Tacho
T26a / 18 : Tachosignal Ausgang not needed for test
T26a / 20 : Geschwindigkeitssignal Eingang vom Sensor
T26a / 21 : negativ
Connect T26a/16 and T26a/21, rapid on/off negative-signal on T26a/20 should make the dial-needle to "jump",
keep rapid on/off to to confirm trip-counter reaction
still no response ? propably an electrical error
if needle responds but no reaction on trip, propably the famous gear-problem ...

- Drehzahlmesser / Rev counter : T26 (yellow) - T26a (blue)
T26 / 21 : minus
T26 / 22 : pulse (positive)
T26 / 23 : minus (5-cyl) not needed for test
T26a / 16 : positive
Connect T26/21 and T26a/16, rapid on/off plus-signal on T26/22 should make the dial-needle to "jump",
no response ? propably an electrical error

[Bowie69]

In testing my speedo a while back, I just supplied 12v to the vss pin and the need swung round smoothly.

If you remove the motor, then you can apply power in either direction as as motor doesn't care a jot

Wiring colours on the wiring diagram are good to work out what needs neg and what needs pos.

[Tractor Dave]

check : http://coupe.gofergusons.org/gauge_repair.htm
used info here when fixing mine ...

Yes, seen that and very handy

[pfi]

check : http://coupe.gofergusons.org/gauge_repair.htm
used info here when fixing mine ...

[Tractor Dave]

For speed and rev counter, you just need a variable voltage power supply, cheap enough on ebay.

Whilst they are supplied pulses, they effectively average the voltage using a capacitor.

I understood from Paul Newgents post on this subject that you needed a pulse from oscilloscope or similar
I haven't managed to get the fuel or temp gauges to move either. I'm nervous about connecting some of the brown and coloured wires to positive (as indicated in the guide) as Audi tend to use brown for negative and I don't want a short. I've found one error in the guide so don't want to take any chances.
My aim here was just to test all the bulbs on the bench.

[Bowie69]

For speed and rev counter, you just need a variable voltage power supply, cheap enough on ebay.

Whilst they are supplied pulses, they effectively average the voltage using a capacitor.

[Tractor Dave]

Ace news I'll be your first customer I have a spare set that will need checking over and a new lcd screen fitting which I have already bought

Ok, no problem. Send me a pm. I've just done the LCD successfully on the Coupe. Happy to talk you through it. It's not too difficult or if you are nervous, I can do for you.

[Rikki Kitto]

Ace news I'll be your first customer I have a spare set that will need checking over and a new lcd screen fitting which I have already bought

[Tractor Dave]

Are you thinking of offering a cluster repair service

Of course