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today,morning,i start my car to go to work(yes sometimes work on sundays),i get the fuel bulb indicator on the cluster and fuel gauge needle dead empty.
The tank was full though!
I drive 100-200meters and the needle starts to move to it's full position again,and the check system fuel indicator dissappears....should i worry???
Could be a problem with the fuel level sensor.
I have a similar thing.
Allegedly the copper tracks that the level meter runs on can become corrodd or bent, and just need a bit of TLC to get working. The sensor is accessd from inside the boot.
John Bowlerwell
Electronic Engineer
Present:
Nogaro Blue RS2 - TOE
Previous:
Kingfisher Blue S2 - UAA
Volcano Black RS2 LHD - DEX
On mine i had the same problem that you have......
The floating cilynder that actually moves into the tank it's connected to a copper track with to slides that sends the signal to the gauge.
The connection it's made from the cylinder to the slides by two "bare" copper cables (no plastic cover on the wires they're naked) these wires are bending hundreds (or thousands) of time and they to break!
Got a new part myself for the usual thief price just to discover that one of the wires were broken!
Two minutes and a piece of copper wire and a solder and the job could have be done!
You have the reading sometimes just because the copper it's stiffed and sometimes the two broken parts get in touch while you drive along!
i bought the fuel gauge indicator for a different reason.i was reading wrong fuel measurement.that is why i bought a new part.
This ON/OFF thing is new.
how do you weld the copper slides inside the tank???Are they removable?is it an easy job?
for God sake!DO NOT attempt to solder anything in the tank proximity!! (not mentioning inside the tank!)
From the boot you take of the carpet and you will see a rounded adesiv disc of damper that it's the access to the tank
Take off the damper and you will see a black rounded door screwed on the chassis take it off and you'll see another door or cover in this case with fuel pipes and wires coming out from the top with a white ring/collar screwed on the outside to unscrew the white ****** you have two options
1) get the proper vag tool
2) gently (well not so gently perhaps hammering the ring anticlokwise with a piece of hardwood
Once it's opened you will see the floater and the contacts and the wires have a good check for broken wires....
if you have to put a new wire in the eletrical part it's plugged in with usual Audi plugs and if i remember well to take off the whole thing it's quite easy
I'm not sure if you have to take off the fuel pump as well but even this one it's just pushed down in it's position
Once you have this "floater" outside you can use a solder (be sure to be in a range of 8 metres from the tank)
hello stefano,
thanks for the reply
when you say the 'floater' you mean that any soldering i have to do is on that part ONLY?
because if that is the case,then this is the part that im stating is new.
The floter slides and clicks on a position inside the tank.IS there anything in there that provides electric circuitry or the copper tracks as you say that need to be checked?If the copper tracks are on the floater,then those are also new!
If i remember well the "floater" as a new part comes with wires tracks and everything on it and yes if you have that new part just stick it in
Nothing else to be check as far as i recall
Hard to say......
My experience is just on the floater unfortunately (or lucky!) nothing that i know about the gauge......
Hope somebody knows something about it
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