Right my gauge has been playing up since the day i got the car and today i had enough ..sick of not knowing what was in the tank
So
Took the spare wheel cover off and on the drivers side there is a cover with 3 screws for the access to the sender unit after you take it off you will see this
At this point i stopped taking pics as the % levels of fumes/air was dodgie
So as you can see in the pic(above) there is a return and feed pipe which you take off ,best to pop off the live feed to the pump and run the car till it cuts out so there is no pressure in the system when you take off the pipes ..before doing this disconnect the battery so no chance of sparks and boom!!
The cover is held down by the large threaded plastic housing which you just unwind, it will be stiff ..
When this is off ,below the cover there is 2 plugs attached one is the feed for the fuel pump and the other is for the sender unit ..take these off...The feed pipe from the fuel pump is connect to the base of the cover as well (15mm compression nut ) take this off to..Only other thing connected is the return pipe which pops off
Now you have the cover out the way it is easy to get sender unit out as it slides into the fuel pump housing so you just lift it out and you should have this
As you can see the broken wire on the unit is the cause of the problem .example when the tank was full the arm would be right up so the wires would be touching there for giving you a reading and when reaching 3/4-1/2 tank it would just drop on the gauge as the wires were not touching any more(arm dropped)
So out with the soldering iron ..I removed the broken wire up to here as the wire thickness differs, as it needs to flex when attached to arm
Got standard wire and halved it so it was more flexible and soldered it to the two points ,hard to see wire as so fine and camera is pants for detail
After that put here back together in reverse of taking out(make sure you slide the sender unit arm right down in the sleeve)
And hey presto you have a working fuel gauge
So
Took the spare wheel cover off and on the drivers side there is a cover with 3 screws for the access to the sender unit after you take it off you will see this
At this point i stopped taking pics as the % levels of fumes/air was dodgie
So as you can see in the pic(above) there is a return and feed pipe which you take off ,best to pop off the live feed to the pump and run the car till it cuts out so there is no pressure in the system when you take off the pipes ..before doing this disconnect the battery so no chance of sparks and boom!!
The cover is held down by the large threaded plastic housing which you just unwind, it will be stiff ..
When this is off ,below the cover there is 2 plugs attached one is the feed for the fuel pump and the other is for the sender unit ..take these off...The feed pipe from the fuel pump is connect to the base of the cover as well (15mm compression nut ) take this off to..Only other thing connected is the return pipe which pops off
Now you have the cover out the way it is easy to get sender unit out as it slides into the fuel pump housing so you just lift it out and you should have this
As you can see the broken wire on the unit is the cause of the problem .example when the tank was full the arm would be right up so the wires would be touching there for giving you a reading and when reaching 3/4-1/2 tank it would just drop on the gauge as the wires were not touching any more(arm dropped)
So out with the soldering iron ..I removed the broken wire up to here as the wire thickness differs, as it needs to flex when attached to arm
Got standard wire and halved it so it was more flexible and soldered it to the two points ,hard to see wire as so fine and camera is pants for detail
After that put here back together in reverse of taking out(make sure you slide the sender unit arm right down in the sleeve)
And hey presto you have a working fuel gauge
Just fixed my fuel gauge thanks to Knight Rider S4 !
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