Relay Numbers and testing

[sheppardnias]

I've been battling (on and off) with a battery which discharges in about 5 days ever since I got my URS6.

I tracked initial problems down to some dodgy wiring on the Scorpion alarm but there is still something wrong.

Last night I put the multimeter back on the car and started pulling relays etc trying to track down the source.

This is where I got to...

After locking the car with the scorpion fob, the multmeter goes overscale (above 10A) for about 20 seconds and then settles down to about 1.1A for a further period of about 1 minute. The current then drops to about 0.32A.

I can't say how accurate the meter is but I would say that this current is too much and by my estimates I'm losing getting on for 7 3/4 Amps per day on the car, hence after 5 days the battery struggles to / won't turn the car over.

I have found that if I pull relay 1 (radiater fan (delay time)) and relay 6 (Sliding roof) from the fusebox / relay holder under the bonnet, the current draw drops to 0.09 on the meter. This sounds about right to me but I have no proof of that.

I also noticed that Relay 1 was warm to the touch. The car hadn't been run for 2 days, so the fan hadn't run. In fact I have never seen it run, although I had the car sat in stationary traffic for an hour last week and the gauge moved no higher than 92 (an estimate) degrees and the car showed no signs of overheating at all despite reading 34 degrees on the built in display.

What I need to know for a start is whether the correct relays are fitted and if they work correctly.

So Relay one is marked as 214, is grey topped, white based and has part number 443951253K printed on it. It's a 40A relay and has it's circuit printed on it.


Relay 6 is completely black, marked 239 and part number 445 955 529 A. It has no circuit info on it at all.


If anyone can tell me if these are the right relays for the job and how to test relay 6, it would be much appreciated.


Cheers


Steve

[UrS4Eben]

Cut the yellow wire going to the central locking pump.
If its anything like mine its a design fault in the central locking pump and nothing wrong with the relays.
Its the pump that makes the relays click.

[220bhp]

I also have this problem on my s6,starts fine if left for 2 or 3 days,but battery flat if I leave it any longer.
The car has original alarm,and I to think its the alarm that drains the battery,but I have never investigated any further.

[UrS4Eben]

There is a few articles about it on the web. one on SJM I think. The last version of the CL pump was supposed to have fixed the fault but I just cut the yellow wire and had no annoying clicking or warm relays and havn't had a drained battery since either.

PS some instructions mention cutting both the solid yellow and a yellow with a tracer but I just cut the solid yellow and it works.

[sheppardnias]

I don't fancy cutting anything without trying it but I'll remove the wire from the connector. Just to be clear (I haven't got the car with me right now), which of the 3 connectors on the pump does the yellow go to? (Just in case there is more than 1 yellow).

Cheers

Steve

[sheppardnias]

I also have this problem on my s6,starts fine if left for 2 or 3 days,but battery flat if I leave it any longer.
The car has original alarm,and I to think its the alarm that drains the battery,but I have never investigated any further.

Both alarms on mine are original (key operated and Scorpion badged as Audi for the fob). Not sure what the current drain by the alarm in the pump should be but the Scorpion manual states about 23mA. I am sure that neither alarm should be capable of draining a car battery in a week.

Problem I have found is that the fob alarm, although badged as Audi is fitted by / for the dealers in the UK. The quality of the installation on mine is poor to say the least and tracking the wires is just about impossible. If the original dealer was local to me I would go in at vent some anger on them. I can't believe that dealers let stuff go in such a state.

I had the alarm out a while back and reset it so that the car was useable. Passive arming was driving me and the neighbours mad. Everytime you parked up, unlocked the house and then went back to get stuff from the car, you had to disarm the alarm. You could guarantee setting it off late at night every time, panicking, dropping the keys and disturbing everyone.

[UrS4Eben]

I don't fancy cutting anything without trying it but I'll remove the wire from the connector. Just to be clear (I haven't got the car with me right now), which of the 3 connectors on the pump does the yellow go to? (Just in case there is more than 1 yellow).

Cheers

Steve

There is only one solid yellow. THe connector is not very "disconnect" friendly otherwise I would have done it too

[sheppardnias]

Oh well.... In for a penny, in for a pound...

I'll do what I can and no doubt end up cutting it too.

[HPmuirt]

I had the alarm out a while back and reset it so that the car was useable. Passive arming was driving me and the neighbours mad. Everytime you parked up, unlocked the house and then went back to get stuff from the car, you had to disarm the alarm. You could guarantee setting it off late at night every time, panicking, dropping the keys and disturbing everyone.

Yeah, the passive arming annoyed me as well so I disabled it. I have the Scorpion manual in pdf format if anyone wants a copy, as this describes the functions of all the dip switches including turning off passive arming.

Cheers n

Si

[sheppardnias]

OK

Tried removing the yellow wire to the CL pump. Made no difference. Fully disconnected the CL pump, no difference.

Unplugged the scorpion alarm, pulled all fuses I could linked to the alarm and again no change.

No matter what I pulled relay wise within the car, the feed to the sunroof relay stayed live. Anybody know what it should do? With the relay in, the current draw seems to pulse between about 0.4A and 0.07A. With it removed it stayed steady at 0.07A.

I also found that my Relay 1(Fan delay) is permanently live and that the relay in there is dead (suspected it was when it rattled in my hand and then by the brown mark in the side). If I swap it with an identically marked relay, the fan seems to run and run..

I tracked down a brown relay looking device in the passenger footwell behind the plastic kick panel. This unit / relay seems to control Relay 1 under the bonnet but I have no idea what controls this unit or how to test it. It's close to the ECU, is that the controller for it? If so what sensor does the ecu use to determine the fan should run because the fan doesn't run with the engine started when cold.

Anybody have any ideas?

I am assuming that the fan should not run when the engine is cold but is there any delay after locking / unlocking the car that I didn't wait for?

Only good thing to come out of the night was adjusting the master clutch cylinder. The clutch pedal comes up much higher now and has a left the clutch feeling much more progressive than before....

[UrS4Eben]

brown relay is the after-run pump for turbo if I remember correct