All Martyn's recent work has got me in the mood for some repairs so I've set about all the little jobs that needed doing.
The worst one was fixing the electric windows and sunroof. As you will no doubt know the windows and sunroof should power off when one of the front doors is opened and closed. Mine didn't.
I replaced the control unit - no joy :mad:
I then rewired the permanent live feed and window output of the control unit properly, as opposed to the bizarre twin inline 20amp fuse holder arrangement that was joining the two circuits - still no joy
After much head scratching, I found the ingition feed was missing!!! The wire went up towards the control unit and sure enough went live with the ignition but it never got to the pin in the relay plate. I have no idea where it does go (presumably to yet another piece of 'heath robinson' wiring fitted by a previous owner)
I reattached the pin to the ignition feed et voila, all is well. Well almost. My TOAD alarm feeds the interior light for a set time after the igntion is turned off and until the light goes out the windows stay live. Oh well. At least they power down afterwards as they should.
I don't think I've ever seen so many bodged wiring jobs on one car. The guy who did it was either very forgetful or very lazy. Instead of connecting wires with crimp connectors or other means, it appears he started to use the old cut the insulation and solder the new wire to it technique. Not a problem with that, I've done it in the past myself. Only there's no solder on any of the joints, just a wire wrapped loosely around with a bit of insulating tape
He must have liked this method though because it's been used for everything. Indicators and fogs, headlights, stereo, etc. You name it and there's probably a dodgy joint I've got to make right.
Ben
Thanks to Paul for the schematics. They helped out no end. I've ordered myself the complete current flow diagrams folder for future reference.
The worst one was fixing the electric windows and sunroof. As you will no doubt know the windows and sunroof should power off when one of the front doors is opened and closed. Mine didn't.
I replaced the control unit - no joy :mad:
I then rewired the permanent live feed and window output of the control unit properly, as opposed to the bizarre twin inline 20amp fuse holder arrangement that was joining the two circuits - still no joy
After much head scratching, I found the ingition feed was missing!!! The wire went up towards the control unit and sure enough went live with the ignition but it never got to the pin in the relay plate. I have no idea where it does go (presumably to yet another piece of 'heath robinson' wiring fitted by a previous owner)
I reattached the pin to the ignition feed et voila, all is well. Well almost. My TOAD alarm feeds the interior light for a set time after the igntion is turned off and until the light goes out the windows stay live. Oh well. At least they power down afterwards as they should.
I don't think I've ever seen so many bodged wiring jobs on one car. The guy who did it was either very forgetful or very lazy. Instead of connecting wires with crimp connectors or other means, it appears he started to use the old cut the insulation and solder the new wire to it technique. Not a problem with that, I've done it in the past myself. Only there's no solder on any of the joints, just a wire wrapped loosely around with a bit of insulating tape
He must have liked this method though because it's been used for everything. Indicators and fogs, headlights, stereo, etc. You name it and there's probably a dodgy joint I've got to make right.Ben
Thanks to Paul for the schematics. They helped out no end. I've ordered myself the complete current flow diagrams folder for future reference.
watch it Ben, one job leads to another, which leads to another, which leads to another, which... arrrr you get the idea!! I feel for you tho man! I don't have any of your issues, just run o the mill stuff for me, just that I did it all at the same time :-). do it once.....
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