Could be any manner of things, e.g. bad wiring to ECU, bad grounds for ECU and/or bad ignition switch.
Missing and hesitation fault finding: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22611.phtml
AAN (and ABY and ADU) won't start solutions info:
C4 UrS ignition switch replacement info:
http://12v.org/urs/ReplacingTheIgnitionSwitch.pdf
And BTW, a warm J17 FP relay would be normal, it has current going through electrical wiring coils all the time the ignition is on and the engine is spinning at more than 13 RPM = resistance = heat
S4 AAN cutting out while driving
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no aftermarket alarm, all original, and it 1992 year so no factory immo also
for me it is strange that it all ok, as soon i start it again
it starts and runs like nothing has happenedLeave a comment:
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That is coincidence most likely. Like Mr Schw****negger - your cutout will be back !Leave a comment:
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only one fault, to high lambda
i have erased it i look if tomorow is perhaps back
today was running fine :SLeave a comment:
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i dont have to wait, i restart the car while it is still moving, and it's fine
sometimes for one minute, sometimes for 20km
today it did it twice in 3-5 km, and it was ok for next 15km,
i hate this faults when it doesnt die and stays dead
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Faulty thermal fuses
Mine did it to me on a dual carriageway, in rush hour, in the dark, 2 days before Xmas, on the wrong side of a bend
Ended up with police out and a tow off the road
By the time got to the recovery yard the fuses had cooled and car started
It did it twice more when I tested it
Changed the fuses and it never did it again as far as I know (sold car at end of winter)
That is of course unless it was you that ended up with the car!Leave a comment:
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have you solved this problem, i am having almost same problem, have changed fuel pump relay on sunday, and today i got again two cut outs
i have used one used relay, i dont believe that it has same fault, but i have noticed, that after 20 min of driving the relay is a little bit warm, is that normal?
i will also check for fault tomorowLeave a comment:
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Update#
Un-helpfully Vagcom showed no problems at all, (cheers Steve for checking it out)
So, I've got a new fuel pump relay ready to fit and a new fuel filter on the way just incase its rubbish in the filter blocking the feed.
The fault hunt continues....
AndyLeave a comment:
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Yes, if that comes up with engine running, then it's a problem.
I said it will always come up if the engine isn't running, whether it's a problem or not.
Why change coils for a G28 code??
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That code aint the same code that comes when you check the codes with engine off. I had the same code and chect it with engine running.Leave a comment:
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Why would a crank sensor fault necessitate the change of the coils?Let me guess, and the faul code is:
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Then it might be time for a 1.8t Coil Pack Conversion:
http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/85357.phtml
G28 will always come up if the codes are pulled with the engine not running at the time of the check.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the helpful hints,
I keep forgetting that I now have access to modern technlogy in the form of Vag-com, I've been driving a coupe GT for the last 5 years so "plug in a computer and have the car tell me whats wrong" is a new idea
Cheers Steve, pm me when you get back.
An Apikol kit went in about three weeks ago, worked fine the first few times it was used.Let me guess, and the faul code is:
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Then it might be time for a 1.8t Coil Pack Conversion:
http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/85357.phtml
AndyLeave a comment:
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Let me guess, and the faul code is:
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Then it might be time for a 1.8t Coil Pack Conversion:
http://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/85357.phtmlLeave a comment:
Leave a comment: