MFTS connector plug required

[UrS4boy]

John: Don't be surprised to see your photos in my MFTS info post (credit to JohnB).

JohnB: Thanks for your photos.

I just added this to the MFTS post in my Engine Bay Device Map:

""If you find that your connector has broken or is crumbling, there is no alternative than to order a new one from a dealer (PN 893971974). Here is the MFTS connector, newly arrived from a dealer (Note the purple pin lock):


Photo courtesy of JohnB on the S2Forum

Here are the old and new connectors. In this case JohnB was swapping the pins and wires from the old crumbling connector the new pretty connector, one at a time so the order didn't get messed up (Note: purple pin lock has been removed from the old connector and not yet installed in the new connector housing):


Photo courtesy of JohnB on the S2Forum

Here is the new connector already to be covered with its rubber boot (grommet) and re-installed on the MFTS on the water manifold (Note: the purple pin lock has been reinstalled):


Un-annotated base photo courtesy of JohnB on the S2Forum"

[John B]

Wow Good work! You've turned the photo into something really useful. I hope it helps someone.

[UrS4boy]

Wow Good work! You've turned the photo into something really useful. I hope it helps someone.

It will. And I've now added the annotated photo to the PCV system and Knock Sensor info posts:

PCV System:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22506.phtml

Knock Sensor:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/21047.phtml

Both of which I accessed from the live link Engine Bay Device Map:

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%20Engine%20Bay%20Device%20Map.html

[Tonks4x4]

Completely unrelated in a way. But on a 3B is there anyone that knows what resistance figure the ECU is expecting to receive?

As I would be inclined to just solder in a resistor at the ECU end. To get rid of the possibility of it stopping boost.


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[UrS4boy]

Completely unrelated in a way. But on a 3B is there anyone that knows what resistance figure the ECU is expecting to receive? As I would be inclined to just solder in a resistor at the ECU end. To get rid of the possibility of it stopping boost. Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

I, in no way, condone such actions to circumvent the fail-safes that the Audi and Bosch engineers worked into the engine control programming. That said, as purely an academic exercise, I offer the following information:

The approximate relationship between the VW/Audi 1301 resistance simulator is very approximately Resistance in Ohms = (0.5013 * VW 1301 setting) + 9.367 (this a reasonably accurate linear relationship with an R^2=0.9998) REFERENCE: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/223365.phtml

Bentley gives examples, e.g. VW 1301 of 62 = 40 Ohms, VW 1301 of 560 = 288 Ohms, etc. See reference above for more examples.

Now, with regard to the MFTS, Bentley suggests that with the VW 1301 plugged into the "T" terminal in the MFTS plug and the other lead to ground/earth, the VW 1301 set to 560 (288 Ohms) and the ignition turned to "ON", the temperature reading on the water temp gauge should read between the lower two gauge dot marks, i.e. between 40 and 60 C (Average 50 C)



Now if you set the VW 1301 to 58 (about 38.4 Ohms), and the ignition is turned to "ON", the gauge reading should be between the upper two dots, i.e between 105 C and 115 C (average 110 C).

What you do with this information is up to you.

[Tonks4x4]

Thank you just that


Tonks4x4 - The Land Rover Specialist

[Ross]

You can just unplug the relevant pin as per the diagram ("R") as this provides the ECU with the signal, as I've found out that will prevent you from ever getting boost cut.

I'm still confused to why I get boost cut with it plugged in and a bad connection - I expected high resistance in the connection to cause it under-read and cut at a higher temp rather than a lower temp... is it something I can monitor via VAG-com to see what the ECU is interpreting it as?

[UrS4boy]

You can just unplug the relevant pin as per the diagram ("R") as this provides the ECU with the signal, as I've found out that will prevent you from ever getting boost cut. I'm still confused to why I get boost cut with it plugged in and a bad connection - I expected high resistance in the connection to cause it under-read and cut at a higher temp rather than a lower temp... is it something I can monitor via VAG-com to see what the ECU is interpreting it as?

Disconnecting the "R" pin makes sense but it also removes the safety feature to prevent higher boost when the engine is already very (too ) hot. As for your issue with it plugged in, you should be able to check for the resistance, at least in the wire, from Pin R in the Harness to your ECU pin (T55/36 for the 3B and T55/46 for the ABY and ADU). There must be a measuring block for this in VAG-Com.

[poor-boy]

Does anyone know the part numbers for the little female connectors in the MFTS plug? Mine have rotted and fell out

[UrS4boy]

Does anyone know the part numbers for the little female connectors in the MFTS plug? Mine have rotted and fell out

Where do you live? In a salt mine?

PN = 000979135 for the 1 mm^2 (16 gauge) wires (the actual wires are 0.5 mm^2 or 20 gauge but the 135 is the smallest pin available).

[poor-boy]

Where do you live? In a salt mine?

PN = 000979135 for the 1 mm^2 (16 gauge) wires (the actual wires are 0.5 mm^2 or 20 gauge but the 135 is the smallest pin available).

Lol.. seems like a salt mine

cheers for the info and ordered now