12.9 is fine
13. 1 to 13.3 is fine if the engine was at idle but raise the rpm to 2000 & I'd expect it to be nearer 14.0
"15 volt and all over the place" is concerning. Voltage at the back of the alternator should be the same as the battery at all times.
If cold crank is laboured and battery is good that points to poor wiring. To check, make up a long extension to one of the leads on your DVM (can be any old thin or thick bit of wire) Attach one end of the newly extended DVM leads to the positive stud on the starter motor and the other to the battery +12v terminal. Set the DVM to measure voltage. You'll see no voltage reading until you crank the car, the lower the voltage as you crank the car the better and you want less than 1 volt. Move the DVM wires to the battery -ve terminal and the body of the starter motor itself and crank the car. Again, the lower the voltage you see, the better.
If you get more than 1 volt during cranking, that's the wire to go chasing for poor connections. -ve line is the more likely one as that's the one with all the earth lines: battery to body, body to engine, engine to starter to fail whereas the +ve line is straight to the terminal on the starter motor.
If this shows nothing, put the DVM wires on the stud on the back of the starter motor for the battery lead and the one going down to the motor. Any voltage here during cranking means the starter motor solenoid is poor.
When connecting to the battery make sure you connect directly to the battery terminal, not the cable clamp that attaches to the battery (you may need a helper for that), that way you'll check for any poor connection between the battery & the cable clamp.
Also check the battery voltage at the battery during cranking. If it's less than around 10 volts the battery has a poor cell & is on the way out.
John
13. 1 to 13.3 is fine if the engine was at idle but raise the rpm to 2000 & I'd expect it to be nearer 14.0
"15 volt and all over the place" is concerning. Voltage at the back of the alternator should be the same as the battery at all times.
If cold crank is laboured and battery is good that points to poor wiring. To check, make up a long extension to one of the leads on your DVM (can be any old thin or thick bit of wire) Attach one end of the newly extended DVM leads to the positive stud on the starter motor and the other to the battery +12v terminal. Set the DVM to measure voltage. You'll see no voltage reading until you crank the car, the lower the voltage as you crank the car the better and you want less than 1 volt. Move the DVM wires to the battery -ve terminal and the body of the starter motor itself and crank the car. Again, the lower the voltage you see, the better.
If you get more than 1 volt during cranking, that's the wire to go chasing for poor connections. -ve line is the more likely one as that's the one with all the earth lines: battery to body, body to engine, engine to starter to fail whereas the +ve line is straight to the terminal on the starter motor.
If this shows nothing, put the DVM wires on the stud on the back of the starter motor for the battery lead and the one going down to the motor. Any voltage here during cranking means the starter motor solenoid is poor.
When connecting to the battery make sure you connect directly to the battery terminal, not the cable clamp that attaches to the battery (you may need a helper for that), that way you'll check for any poor connection between the battery & the cable clamp.
Also check the battery voltage at the battery during cranking. If it's less than around 10 volts the battery has a poor cell & is on the way out.
John
)
slightly less then the 640 it should have had on board. New battery to be installed and hopefully normal service will have been resumed
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