Electrical Problem, Fuse #14 blows

[s2avant]

I think I've finally found that elusive 6pin plug from the first post. Good news is you can ignore it if you are using an aftermarket radio.

It is T6k which is used for passive/active loudspeakers and the radio display in autocheck unit.

Pinout is as follows:

1 red/blue	- 30 connection (battery positive) in dash panel wiring loom (originates from fuse 4)
2 brown		- Earth connection for rear active bass loudspeakers
3 white		- From radio T8b/5 (provides power to aerial booster and rear active bass loudspeakers
4 red/yellow	- Autocheck T26b/20 (white connector on instrument cluster)*
5 grey/red	- Autocheck T26b/21 (white connector on instrument cluster)*
6 red/brown	- Autocheck T26b/22 (white connector on instrument cluster)*

The three wires marked with * above are connected directly to the red ten plug (T10h) you also found.

The pinout for T10h is as follows:

1  red/brown		   - T6k/6	
2  grey/red		   - T6k/5
3  red/yellow		   - T6k/4
4  NC
5  brown/black & brown/red - negative audio connection to active rear active bass loudspeakers
6  NC
7  NC
8  red/green		   - positive audio connection (right) to active rear active bass loudspeakers
9  NC
10 blue/green		   - positive audio connection (left) to active rear active bass loudspeakers

[eMTea]

How can I thank you enough?!

That explains why the loom goes under the carpet and backwards.

I will probably connect them and get rid of all this loose wires, good to know that it is (near at least) ship shape.

The green\red wire:
This car's bumper does not have headlight washers\jets, but i know the bumper has been replaced by previous owner.
The car though, does have the motor for the headlight washers, but the piping is plugged. Now I can understand why i don't hear a sound from it, even though it is still connected. This is the "warning - no fuse! connection" right?

I will get to a nearby dealer tomorrow, and get some shrink\solder (genious) connectors. Then i have something to do on Sunday

I guess they have cut the wires to the 10pin plug, in an desparate try of getting the active speaker to play on an aftermarket radio.

Why they cut the whole loom, without isolating or protecting the wires, is still a case for Sherlock Holmes!

[s2avant]

Hopefully you should be able to get it nearly back to how Audi intended. I look forward to hearing how you get on over the weekend.

I'm not sure the green/red wire interacts with the headlamp wash pump. The pump is fed by a red wire from relay 4.

I would also remove the black and red wires that have been added to power the aux instruments and rewire it properly.

I had a similar 'repair' that I found in the drivers door loom of my V8. The main power connection in the door had fell apart so someone had cut the loom apart and fed a big green wire in to power things. they had done it badly though and the passenger window and sunroof didn't work. They had also left some wires disconnected and whever the door was slammed it would short out on the door inner frame and blow the central locking and interior light fuses. This then stopped the alarm working and immobilised the car. Not fun when your in the middle of nowhere in the dark. We had to strip the door apart completely to be able get to the damaged wiring and repair it properly.

I do wonder what some people are thinking when they work on vehicle electrics. Most of the time the bodge is more difficult and time consuming than just fixing the part that has failed.

Ben

[Evilgoat76]

I've been looking at it again and it's possible the green/red is for the front windscreen washer motor. It's difficult to say without knowing what doesn't work on the car.
Ben

Thats curious. One of the symptoms I got when the loom went in my boot was the front washers jamming on. I'm getting a picture of why this might have been done now :S