fault code quiz

[HORCH]

my cars been running very badly and not starting well at all so I got a mobile crypton tuning man out to have a look at my car and he found these fault codes,

he also found I'm not getting a spark until after a few turns of the engine,
after he wiped the codes and we started the car up again the faults come back, the same 5 every time, he doesnt have a wiring diagram for this car to see if they are all linked into the same circuit as maybe only one of them is faulty but making the others show up

he says it could be the crankshaft sensor aswell, he measured the output I think and it wasnt showing any signal? either that or the signal was weak i cant remember?

also when I'm trying to drive it, the car doesnt know what to do, it hesitates and shakes you back and forward in the seat at low speed driving say in second gear, sometimes the revs wont go over 3k, it starts misfiring and coughs and splutters, it goes up through the gears ok sometimes but I'm not getting full boost either, only .4 .5
its just totally wrong

its recently been homefried which I've read could be the cause of 66535

so could someone help me please? AGAIN thanks again

00516 - closed throttle (idle) position switch (F60)
30-00 - open or short to plus

65535 - internal control module memory error
35-00 - -

00518 - throttle position sensor (G69)
28-00 short to plus

00528 - barometric pressure (altitude) sensor (F96)
30-00 - open or short to plus

00515 - camshaft position (hall) sensor G40
29-10 - short to ground - intermittent

I've written it out exactly as it is on the printout he gave me

[Rusty]

The last one will be the starting problem; it'll either be the sensor, wiring or plug. I had the same with the crank sensor on mine. I took the plug apart, cleaned and rebuilt it and it hasn't done it since, although I think the wiring at the back of the engine bay is a cause for future concern.

The altitude sensor can be tested according to the SJM guide that there's bound to be...

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vtecu.htm

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20valt.html

The TB could be a number of things but I'd check the plug first and perhaps get a spare, known working TB to put on and try.

HTH

[s2_bo]

Maybe your TPS is not set up right too? have you played with it recently? Try unplugging the TPS and the ISV and see how the car starts and idles then.
If it starts and idles try to plug them in while its running to see how that effects things.



65535 is that relating to the ECU?

[Wheeljack]

65535 is that relating to the ECU?

I've seen that a lot over the years and seems to be related in most parts to ECU's that have been 'chipped' or modified. Always made me wonder, if it is really the reason for the code, why it also isn't 'fixed' during chipping or modification so it doesn't throw the code?

Maybe Paul or Dmitri can comment?

[Nuvo]

checksum fail most probably.

[prj]

Checksum fail, but the other errors could be because +5V reference is short to ground somewhere.
Check for shorts to ground on PIN 12 of Motronic connector.

[UrS4boy]

G40 Cam Position Sensor (CPS) info

....he also found I'm not getting a spark until after a few turns of the engine,....its recently been homefried which I've read could be the cause of 66535

As has been discussed on this forum before, the ECU requires three signals before it will start the engine: the G4 crankshaft position sender, the G40 cam shaft position sender and the G28 engine speed sender. In the first instants, the ECU needs to see at least 13 RPM during cranking (manuals say 25, Paul N says 13) before the ECU triggers the fuel pump relay (a key component for starting)). Then it needs both the G40 and the G4 signals in order to figure out where the pistons are and when to fire the injectors and the spark plugs (via the POS controlled coils in the case of the AAN, ABY and ADU). If either the G4 or G40 are bad, the engine will not start (note: the engine speed sensor G28, always throws a false positive code when codes are pulled with the engine off). If you have a G40 code being thrown, then chances are strong you have G40 problem. Here is some G40 Cam Position Sensor info

IrishS2 recently posted here how his G40 cam (Hall) position sender was intermittently shorting to ground, causing all sorts of nasty running and engine stopping issues. The cure was a new G40. Here is Documentation of an Intermittent G40 failure

Regarding the ECU fault code, I would remove the ECU and reinstall the stock chips (assuming that your ECU is now socketed) and see how things work with the old chips. Could be the problem.

Good luck.

[prj]

Don't be quick to replace Hall sensor here.
All those sensors have something in common - +5V reference.